S&W 629 with sticky trigger

[Heavy Barrel]

I recently posted this issue that I am having with a 629 classic that I recieved back from S&W's performance center last friday.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49186

I have come to the conclusion that I would have better chances at getting a reply here than in "General Gunsmithing"

As I mentioned in the other posting the trigger wants to hesitate/hang up. When I discharge a round, then release the trigger to reset the action, it wants to hesitate/ hang up roughly half way to the reset point. (I am not sure what the proper terminology would be to explain this, if some one is willing to take to time to explain this in better terms. I would appreciate it.)

I have contacted S&W and they are "suppose" to be sending me a shipping label for returning the piece. IMO that is the least they could do.

[HSMITH]

Mouse AD, at least no one was hurt

Edited June 5, 2007 by HSMITH

[HSMITH]

Light rebound slide springs are the FIRST thing most do in an 'action job', and when everything else isn't 100% you have the problem you are seeing.

Send it back, they are footing the bill, it might actually hit the bench of someone that can get it running.

If it doesn't work when it comes back let the forum know. More than a few of us have been tinkering with these guns for a long time and can help you decide what the next step is at worst.

[Heavy Barrel]

Light rebound slide springs are the FIRST thing most do in an 'action job', and when everything else isn't 100% you have the problem you are seeing.

Send it back, they are footing the bill, it might actually hit the bench of someone that can get it running.

If it doesn't work when it comes back let the forum know. More than a few of us have been tinkering with these guns for a long time and can help you decide what the next step is at worst.

I read some where else here that was the problem. I think that it was involving a 625?

Though I called and explained to the Customer Service Rep. what it was doing. They are suppose to be sending me a UPS label with in the next few days.

Ironicly the smith that done the work was asinine to send the original rebound slide spring back to me. I will give that a try, though for what I paid them, talk about playing it cheap.

[Waltermitty]

Light rebound slide springs are the FIRST thing most do in an 'action job', and when everything else isn't 100% you have the problem you are seeing.

Send it back, they are footing the bill, it might actually hit the bench of someone that can get it running.

If it doesn't work when it comes back let the forum know. More than a few of us have been tinkering with these guns for a long time and can help you decide what the next step is at worst.

I read some where else here that was the problem. I think that it was involving a 625?

Though I called and explained to the Customer Service Rep. what it was doing. They are suppose to be sending me a UPS label with in the next few days.

Ironicly the smith that done the work was asinine to send the original rebound slide spring back to me. I will give that a try, though for what I paid them, talk about playing it cheap.

That's a good place to start. Put the old spring back in, but don't toss it, you may want it later. If it's hanging up about half way back, there are other things that can be done to maintain your light trigger pull (like reprofiling the step on the return spring carrier) but that's a long discussion and if you are otherwise happy with the trigger you may not want to bother.

BTW, every thing you find here involving troubleshooting a 625 will transfer to your 629.

[imashooter2]

If you are going to be sending it back, leave it alone. Last thing you want is for it to get back to S&W and have them shaking their heads when they can't reproduce the problem.

[pskys2]

Does it do it when dryfiring? If it does it "ONLY" when firing then you may have a headspace, or endshake, problem. If it does it while dryfiring, it may not feel quite as obvious without a set of empties inserted but still is there then...

The quick way to check it is:

Back off the strain screw about 1/2 to 1 full turn. If at any point you feel the hitch go away it is an imbalance between the mainspring and rebound spring.

Going too far will cause other issues, but they usually show up on the firing stroke and not the rebound stroke.

It's not too hard to do your own action job, unless you want to get down to the sub-space limits (under 5 lbs.) Smooth is more important than light on a revolver action.

Keep us informed of your findings.

[Heavy Barrel]

That's a good place to start. Put the old spring back in, but don't toss it, you may want it later. If it's hanging up about half way back, there are other things that can be done to maintain your light trigger pull (like reprofiling the step on the return spring carrier) but that's a long discussion and if you are otherwise happy with the trigger you may not want to bother.

BTW, every thing you find here involving troubleshooting a 625 will transfer to your 629.

I changed the rebound slide springs as you suggested. The results were that the trigger dosen't hang up no ways near as it use to. Now the trigger makes a prominate snapping sound when it resets with the cylinder stop and the sear. My guess is that the trigger and or sear hasn't been stoned properly to fit with the piece.

After talking to S&W today about this issue the response I got was "they do trim the rebound spring sometimes instead of stoning the action" I explained what the results were of their negligence and they are suppose to be e-mailing me a UPS return label. Though I would still like to "tinker" with it some what to see what the fool they call a smith did wrong.

If you are going to be sending it back, leave it alone. Last thing you want is for it to get back to S&W and have them shaking their heads when they can't reproduce the problem.

I have been keeping a log of what I have changed, so far it has only been the rebound spring. The difference between the original and the one the smith monkeyed up is pretty obvious.

Does it do it when dryfiring? If it does it "ONLY" when firing then you may have a headspace, or endshake, problem. If it does it while dryfiring, it may not feel quite as obvious without a set of empties inserted but still is there then...

The quick way to check it is:

Back off the strain screw about 1/2 to 1 full turn. If at any point you feel the hitch go away it is an imbalance between the mainspring and rebound spring.

Going too far will cause other issues, but they usually show up on the firing stroke and not the rebound stroke.

It's not too hard to do your own action job, unless you want to get down to the sub-space limits (under 5 lbs.) Smooth is more important than light on a revolver action.

Keep us informed of your findings.

The trigger would want to hangup half way no matter if I would be shooting live rounds or dry firing, or have snap caps in the cylinder.

I had to back the strain screw off a full turn in order to eliminate the "hitch" using the modified rebound spring that was installed by the smith.

Far as doing my own action job, I personally would have a smooth trigger pull than a light trigger pull. The 686 I sent to S&W last year they didn't do anything in regards to the trigger pull weight. They just stoned the contact surfaces with in the action. And the results I got from my 686 far exceed the results I got from my 629.

[bountyhunter]

That's a good place to start. Put the old spring back in, but don't toss it, you may want it later. If it's hanging up about half way back, there are other things that can be done to maintain your light trigger pull (like reprofiling the step on the return spring carrier) but that's a long discussion and if you are otherwise happy with the trigger you may not want to bother.

BTW, every thing you find here involving troubleshooting a 625 will transfer to your 629.

I changed the rebound slide springs as you suggested. The results were that the trigger dosen't hang up no ways near as it use to. Now the trigger makes a prominate snapping sound when it resets with the cylinder stop and the sear. My guess is that the trigger and or sear hasn't been stoned properly to fit with the piece.

SW triggers and hammers are surface hardened.

STONED = DESTROYED

The loud click may be normal.

[Carmoney]

SW triggers and hammers are surface hardened.

STONED = DESTROYED

Only if we're talking about the single-action engagement. One should not stone the cocking notch on the hammer. Otherwise, there is all kinds of magic that can be done to improve the trigger action on a S&W revolver with a stone!

[Heavy Barrel]

SW triggers and hammers are surface hardened.

STONED = DESTROYED

One should not stone the cocking notch on the hammer.

That I understand. Everyone I have discussed the matter of doing my own action work (locally). Has severly pressed that the cocking notch does not get stoned on double action revolvers. Period.

Edited June 6, 2007 by Heavy Barrel

[Heavy Barrel]

Its going on a week and I am yet to receive the return UPS label that S&W claims that they sent to me.

In the mean time I sent a inquire to Wolff gun springs explaining the issue, and the general manager Mr. Dave Koebensky stated that there is a strong possibility that S&W installed a reduced power main spring and either a 11lb or 13lb rebound spring.

By his words that is all that S&W normally orders from Wolff. He feels that if the action hasn't been worked over properly a 11lb or 13lb rebound spring might be too weak, so he is sending me an assortment of rebound springs i.e. various weights to see if they will balance the action out.

In the mean time I have been debating about, lightly stoning the various contact points just enough to get rid of the high spots and the rough spots created from when the parts were casted. Though if I do I know to stay away from the cocking notch on the hammer.

I realize the risk that I would be taking, though my thought is I couldn't do no worse that what S&W did. And if I do screw up, I know at least three different places that sell parts.

Edited June 13, 2007 by Heavy Barrel

[Carmoney]

Go for it, HB. It ain't rocket science. If you're halfway handy, you'll figure it out just fine.

[pskys2]

For one S&W religiously use Fed Ex, not UPS. Make sure to whom you're talking at S&W.

If I remember right, I though they just gave me an Account Number and not an actual label.

Heck if everything else seems ok, tear into the bugger. as long as you don't make obvious changes i.e. hammer lightening spur removal, grinding off the SA notch or that "hump" on the Rebound Slide they won't know much difference if you do send it back. And it'll be quicker if you do it.

Get Jerry's DVD, you will want your own copy, as doing one action is never enough!

Someone here will be glad to give you advice, and some might even be good!

[Heavy Barrel]

For one S&W religiously use Fed Ex, not UPS. Make sure to whom you're talking at S&W.

If I remember right, I though they just gave me an Account Number and not an actual label.

The party I spoke with that day went by the name of Jeff. I didn't think to get his last name. Though at first he specifically stated that a return label would be sent to me by means of UPS. Then he asked me if I had a e-mail address in which I provided to him. He then stated that they would be e-mailing me a return label. In which I am yet to receive. I checked with my ISP to see if it may have been blocked thinking it was spam but they don't show any records of S&W or UPS sending me anything.

Heck if everything else seems ok, tear into the bugger. as long as you don't make obvious changes i.e. hammer lightening spur removal, grinding off the SA notch or that "hump" on the Rebound Slide they won't know much difference if you do send it back. And it'll be quicker if you do it.

Everything else seems as it should be. Honestly, when I sent the piece to S&W I had no intentions of them lightening the trigger pull. Only smoothing out the overall feel of the trigger.

I don't have any intentions of making any "obvious" changes, such as those you mentioned. Just try to smooth the action out to where it feels better than what the smith did when he sent the piece back to me.

Regarding the statement "if you do send it back." I would rather run the piece through a shredder then send it back to S&W. I will find a independent smith if something goes wrong that I can't fix before sending it back to them. I have no problems with buying S&W products but I personally am done with their Performance Center.

I came to the conclusion when I had them do my 686 that I could do this alot quicker. And any one could be more efficient at returning a price quote.

Get Jerry's DVD, you will want your own copy, as doing one action is never enough!

I have both of Mr. Miculek's DVD's covering S&W revolvers. After watching his "Trigger Job" DVD I just scratched my head wondering why was it so difficult for the smith to do this right the first time.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Call Jeff again. He is usually real good on these things but he also had a vacation and came back to a couple hundred e mails and a bunch more voice mail.

I will PM you his extension number. great guy, USPSA shooter as well as IDPA and shoots a 625 (some times)