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trigger pin info please


rodney brown

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I am not a very frequent poster on this forum, mostly just a reader. I am only one year into IPSC/USPSA shooting, so trying to learn all I can. I have a 625-3.

I bought the gun used, don't know the round count before I bought it. I have put about 6000 rounds through it in the year I have had it.

Yesterday, getting ready for a match today, I was cleaning, checking out everything, etc. I took off the side plate, sprayed a very little bit of lube on the "working parts". With the cylinder out, I pulled back the cylinder release and was going to dry fire the gun a couple of times, to work the lubricant around. The trigger locked up. Long story short, the trigger pivot pin sheared right at the frame. The gun worked fine two days earlier at the range.

Is this just one of those," manure happens," situations or is there something I should be on the look out for. Only thing done to the gun is JM main spring and rebound spring.

Thanks for any info

Rod Brown

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Put it in a box and send it back to S&W. They can fix it. This is not a home fix situation.

Don't know if they will charge you, but it's cheaper than the alternative.

You can find the address for SAWREP on their website, or if not let me know and I can post it for you.

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Aerosigns

There is no doubt I am sending it back. Cleaning and lubbing are all I do. Just wanted to know if this is a common problem or is this something that happens very very seldom. As well, is there anything that may cause this to happen.

Put it in a box and send it back to S&W. They can fix it. This is not a home fix situation.

Don't know if they will charge you, but it's cheaper than the alternative.

You can find the address for SAWREP on their website, or if not let me know and I can post it for you.

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RGS, excellent point. In fitting internal stops I sometimes cycle the action a couple times with the sideplate off, and there have been times I have noticed the pin behind the rebound slide starting to bend back if the internal stop is a little too long. Fortunately, I've never had one break, but the better practice is to always make the sure sideplate is at least pressed back into place before snapping the action.

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Quite often when working on a S&W action, you will need to cycle the action to see if everything is working as it should. I have found that if I back way off on the strain screw, that I can relieve most of the pressure on the various pins, and not have to constantly be removing and replacing the side plate.

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Rodney, yes send it back to the factory for repair. Unless you have the jig, reamers and counterbore then its a factory repair job. At work we repair/service thousands of revolvers a year and get between 5-10 with broken trigger studs a year. These are usually on high use range/training revolvers. I suppose it is forums like this where you discover the frequency of trigger studs shearing off.

I have never broken a trigger stud on one of my own revolvers however I did shear off the hammer stud on my V comp a few years back.

pjk

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To all of you that replied, many thanks. Because I live in Canada, I will send the gun to a S&W authorized dealer here in Canada. Getting the gun across the border for repairs might be a lenghty process, although I can take it across to shoot a matches. I did not realize that cycling the trigger, with the side plate off, might put "stress" on the supported side only. Live and learn, this is a GREAT forum.

Thanks for the information

Rodney, yes send it back to the factory for repair. Unless you have the jig, reamers and counterbore then its a factory repair job. At work we repair/service thousands of revolvers a year and get between 5-10 with broken trigger studs a year. These are usually on high use range/training revolvers. I suppose it is forums like this where you discover the frequency of trigger studs shearing off.

I have never broken a trigger stud on one of my own revolvers however I did shear off the hammer stud on my V comp a few years back.

pjk

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