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Bob McGee

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Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. After a quick read of this thread I didn't see any mention of the one one doubt I have always had about the Taylor throat, that being the possibility of increased leading with cast bullets. It seems that the extremely long free bore would allow hot gasses to melt the lead on the side of the bullet before it had a chance to completely enter the bore. I would appreciate a comment on this aspect of the Taylor throat.
  2. I have bought 4 of Randy Lees hammers, of which I have installed three, and have one in my spare parts box for some future project. I had some problems with ignition on the first gun, Until I took Randy's advice and went back to using a recurved S&W main spring. I use an 11lb return spring and get snappy enough trigger return, to be able to shoot .20 splits, with the trigger set at 4.25 lbs. At that setting I am getting 100% ignition. I have experimented with lighter settings and was able to run 3.75lbs in the summer time, however, started to have problems in the winter and settled on the 4.25lb setting which I am very happy.
  3. Recently I was lucky to be able to purchase a like new Ernie Hill holster on E-bay. The holster works great, but I have one concern. The holster has a plastic like stud to locate and hold the muzzle of the revolver. My worry, is the stud likely to cause wear in the portion of the barrel it slides into? The reason I am concerned is that the Kydex holster I have been using has really done a number on the outside of the muzzle, I would hate to think the same thing will happen to the inside of the barrel. Please comment. Thanks in advance
  4. Any recommendations on a soft shooting minor load for the .45acp. This load would be to transition a teen age shooter from .22rf to center fire without starting a flinch. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  5. I am sure this is common knowledge, there fore I am almost embarrassed to ask. Can a commander slide be used on a government model frame.
  6. I want to thank everyone for helping with this problem, I just ordered a Lee factory crimp die from midway. I will post the results in a week or two.
  7. With the cost of bullets going way up, I decided to give lead a try after many years of shooting only plated. I have tried several brands of 180 t0 200 gr. bullets all measuring .452" and keep getting about 5-8% that will not drop into a case gage. The problem being a slight bulge in the loaded case caused by the bullet. I have heard that this could be cured by using a Lee carbide factory crimp die. Has any one tried one of these dies, and can they be used in a Dillon 650 press in place of the Dillon crimp die, or must they be used as a separate operation after the round has been completed in the Dillon.
  8. Tom's last comment brings up an other problem, I learned a long time ago that picking up range brass was was just inviting problems. Brass fired out of Glocks seem to be a real problem in my 625.
  9. John, The information that you left out of your post, just could be the problem. That is, what powder and how hot of a load are you trying to shoot? If you are shooting Titegroup or WW231 in powder puff loads, And probable most other powders, you will run into this problem. The light loads just don't burn with enough heat to keep the chambers clean. With a hot load both WW231 and Titegroup will burn super clean, however if you like the softer shooting loads then try going back to the old stand by "Bulls Eye" and you will never have to worry about cleaning chambers again. I know that a lot of people say Bullseye burns dirty, but I find the sut generated by Bullseye burns completely out of the cylinder. One other point, that some will disagree with, is that you will probably find that lead bullets will be a little slower and less reliable on the reload, for that reason I use lead for practice but shoot Berry's double struck plated for matches.
  10. Carmoney, the answer is yes, you can use the same spring that comes in the R. Powed kit but with a .187" ball, you will need to make your own staking tool. I like to drill a .062" hole completely through the crane, that way if I stake the ball a little to deep I can lightly tap it from the rear to reposition the ball.
  11. Has anyone used a S&W pellet revolver as a winter training aid? If so what is your opinion. IT looks as it would be better than dry firing, that is if there is any similarity in the trigger pull.
  12. I just bought a used Ernie Hill holster for a 4" model 625. Given that my old Kydex holster was really wearing the finish on the barrel, won't the barrel locating stud at the bottom of the holster do the same to the crown?
  13. About 35 years ago I had a PPC gun built by a noted west coast gun smith. When the gun arrived it did not have the front eject rod lock. This had me really worried so I placed a phone call to the smith inquiring what was going on, his reply was that all of his guns went out that way and that he had never had a problem. Since then I have built a number of K & L frame guns with out the front eject rod lock. I know this will raise some eye brows, but I have never had a problem, however, I also never shot hot loads in any of these guns. If you look at Jerry's tape on the S&W action job, you will see that when he spins the cylinder it really free wheels. With no ejector rod lock, no no bolt spring plunger and end shake set at .002 I still can't make any of my guns spin almost friction free like Jerry's. What else is he doing???
  14. I have been using Randy's hammers in my 625 & 627 for about two years, they are both working flawlessly at 4.25 lbs. I also use the C&S firing pin without modification, as it comes from Brownell's. For a mainspring I use the stock S&W with a slight arch added to the top 1/3 of the spring, for the trigger return spring I use an 11lb Wolf with one coil clipped off . I then back the strain screw off until the gun starts to fail to ignite the primers. Then tighten the screw 1/4 - 1/2 turn, what ever it takes to give 100% reliability. I'm sure if I wanted to start doing some of the other things listed in the previous posts I could get the double action pull even lower, but I am happy with the 4.25 lbs. I am so pleased with Randy's product that I have just ordered two more.
  15. Quite often when working on a S&W action, you will need to cycle the action to see if everything is working as it should. I have found that if I back way off on the strain screw, that I can relieve most of the pressure on the various pins, and not have to constantly be removing and replacing the side plate.
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