Bobbed Hammer

[Gregg K]

After seeing some of the work of some of the smiths local to me, I decided to chamfer my own cylinder. I bought the tool from Brownell's for about the same cost as they charge to have it done and now I have the tool. Plus I just like to tinker. I just broke the edge on the extractor star and went heavier on the cylinder itself. Here is the cylinder

Here is the tool. 5/8 X 45 degree.

[Carmoney]

I believe it is the flat side of the extractor shaft that keeps it centered. Theoretically, you can cut the legs off the extractor star and it will still keep time. That was the purpose of the design change away from the pins.

But, I have been wrong before

Yeah, eventually the flat side of the shaft will catch up (before that the extractor shaft was splined) and index the cylinder around sorta, but trust me, the primary push to the cylinder comes from the fit of the star itself. The shaft has to be loose enough to move in and out freely. (Write your own punchline here, everybody.)

[aerosigns]

Gregg,

When you insert the tool with the star also in place, how much clearance is there from the cutter to the ratchets? Does it rub immediately? Could you have gone much deeper?

It looks like you did a pretty nice job by the way.

[Gregg K]

Gregg,

When you insert the tool with the star also in place, how much clearance is there from the cutter to the ratchets? Does it rub immediately? Could you have gone much deeper?

It looks like you did a pretty nice job by the way.

The 5/8" cutter will tear into the ratchets with the pilot attached. I started out without the pilot attached and just leaned the cutter away from the ratchets to break the edge off the star. It cuts into the cylinder a little when you lean the cutter but after I broke the edge on the star, I removed the ratchet and attached the pilot. With the pilot attached I cleaned up the cylinder and started cutting deeper. I guess I could have went a little deeper but don't think that I would have gotten any benefit from it and since this was my first one, I wanted to be a little conservative. The loads suck right in even when I get a bit sloppy so I'm OK with the way it is. I have seen a job that had the the star down to little points and the chamfer all the way out to the edge of the cylinder but didn't think it was necessary or the right thing to do. I wonder if a 1/2" cutter might work for a starter cut and to chamfer the star but I don't have one available.

[professor]

Uh, Nemo [and others]. Is that trigger stop on your 625 OFM-supplied? IIRC, added trigger stops are not an allowed modification to revolvers in the current regs. [15th Ed]

19. Modifications which are permitted are limited to:

19.1 Replacement of, or modification to, sights, hammers and cylinder

releases;

19.2 Replacement barrels, provided the barrel length is the same as the

OFM standard;

19.3 Cosmetic enhancements which do not give a competitive advantage

(e.g. plating, checkering of frames, custom grips);

19.4 Modifications to the cylinder to accept “Moon Clips”.

Comments?

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWes...60927_large.jpgS&W 625

Edited April 30, 2007 by professor

[Nemo]

Proff,

I may be wrong but trigger stops are offered by S&W in their PC firearms. Check THIS ONE.

Anyone?

[Jaxshooter]

Nemo

You are right all of my PC guns have stops.

[Carmoney]

Uh, Nemo [and others]. Is that trigger stop on your 625 OFM-supplied? IIRC, added trigger stops are not an allowed modification to revolvers in the current regs. [15th Ed]

19. Modifications which are permitted are limited to:

19.1 Replacement of, or modification to, sights, hammers and cylinder

releases;

19.2 Replacement barrels, provided the barrel length is the same as the

OFM standard;

19.3 Cosmetic enhancements which do not give a competitive advantage

(e.g. plating, checkering of frames, custom grips);

19.4 Modifications to the cylinder to accept “Moon Clips”.

Comments?

Professor, those regs will be changing shortly. The next edition of the rulebook will incorporate the new equipment rules we drafted by consensus right here on this forum. These revised rules essentially allow any internal or external modifications except for porting, comps, and optical sights.

In the meantime, I don't think there's anybody participating in USPSA Revolver Division who will ever care about something as minor as whether somebody's revolver has a trigger stop (external or internal) or not. Let's not manufacture an issue where none really exists, OK?

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

All S&W full size hand guns currently leaving the factory have trigger stops. They are installed in the rebound slide on most and on the trigger of some.

Edited April 30, 2007 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[aerosigns]

On the subject of hammers.

Anyone have any good suggestions on the type of drill bit to use for drilling the hammer. I tried a few metal bits that I thought might work, but they don't even scratch the surface.

We have a machine shop at my day job, but they REALLY frown on bringing gun parts to work.

[professor]

Professor, those regs will be changing shortly. The next edition of the rulebook will incorporate the new equipment rules we drafted by consensus right here on this forum. These revised rules essentially allow any internal or external modifications except for porting, comps, and optical sights.

In the meantime, I don't think there's anybody participating in USPSA Revolver Division who will ever care about something as minor as whether somebody's revolver has a trigger stop (external or internal) or not. Let's not manufacture an issue where none really exists, OK?

I didn't intend to create an issue. Back when I started in USPSA I saw somebody shooting a revolver with a trigger stop and was planning to add one to my S&W 486 [which I was shooting at the time]. I mentioned this to one of the guys at the club who usually went to the Nationals. He said that adding the stop would be illegal "if they caught it at the Nationals" and so I never did anything about it.

This idea that ROs at the Nationals would rigidly enforce the rules was reinforced when one of our local club members was one of the shooters kicked to Open [and essentially knocked out of contention] because they used a mag with 11 rounds in it, instead of loading 1 from a Barney mag, at the "Load and Make Ready" command.

So when I saw Nemo's gun up close, those concerns about rules popped into my head, and I didn't know what was allowed. Checking the current rulebook, it seems to disallow the modification, so I brought it up as a question as to what was allowed in practice.

Would I have to buy a trigger from S&W with the stop installed? Since they supply it on their PC guns, could I just drill, tap, and install the stop myself on my S&W 686 [which was not shipped with a trigger stop installed]? Or should I just wait until the new rulebook goes into effect and go at it then?

[Carmoney]

If you feel you're experiencing backlash and want a trigger stop, my recommendation would be to fit a new internal trigger stop. This is done by cutting a piece of drill rod a little longer than the factory internal stop that rides inside the rebound spring. Install it to see how it fits (usually a rod that is a little longer won't allow the trigger to come back far enough to drop the hammer in DA mode), then keep filing a tiny bit off the rod until the trigger stops just after releasing the hammer. Keep the edges of the rod ends slightly rounded so they can't snag.

Because the trigger is at different places for sear release in DA and SA modes, the stop can't work for both.

Properly adjusted for DA shooting, a trigger stop will not allow the gun to be cocked for SA shooting.

Although time-consuming, this is easy to do, and it would solve your problem. Drilling and tapping a S&W trigger without using heat is not easy to do, they are very hard.

[Nemo]

Would I have to buy a trigger from S&W with the stop installed? Since they supply it on their PC guns, could I just drill, tap, and install the stop myself on my S&W 686 [which was not shipped with a trigger stop installed]? Or should I just wait until the new rulebook goes into effect and go at it then?

Prof,

Before you mentioned it I really never gave it much thought since there are so many revolvers out there with trigger stops, even factory supplied. Smith would install for you a trigger w/ stop as well as a bobbed hammer. But, why pay for a bobbing job when it is so easy to do? I'd also say the same applies for the trigger stop. If you're able to drill through that steel, go for it and do it yourself. I don't think it would be a problem with any rules.

Edited May 1, 2007 by Nemo

[pskys2]

Most factory 1911's don't have a stop either, yet they're accepted without question.

I wouldn't sweat it. JM shoots a production 625, albeit highly modified as far as Revo's go, and I doubt if he "doesn't" use an overtravel stop.

Besides:

17. Any complete revolver (or a revolver assembled from components), produced

by an OFM and available to the general pubic (except prototypes) is

permitted.

That's where the 1911's, and others, get the approval to put together a parts gun, or partial parts gun.