Cycling Machine Not Easy. Neck Sizing Die Stuck

[Gti18T]

I am having trouble cycling my machine. I can do it, but it take some force. It seems like the die that drops the powder/opens up the neck of the case is getting so stuck to the case that i have to really put some pressure on the handle and push down to get the case to pull off the part that sticks out of the die that opens up the case neck. Any ideas? Lube? It's getting to be a real pain.

Thanks

Dan

[sargenv]

I am having trouble cycling my machine. I can do it, but it take some force. It seems like the die that drops the powder/opens up the neck of the case is getting so stuck to the case that i have to really put some pressure on the handle and push down to get the case to pull off the part that sticks out of the die that opens up the case neck. Any ideas? Lube? It's getting to be a real pain.

Thanks

Dan

I'm assuming you're using a 40 cal flare since this seems to happen most to them. I solved my problem by using the 9mm flare part for my 40 since it does just as good a job and does not have that "sticky" problem. I too had the same issue when I was using the same caliber flaring part. If you are using the 45 flare I'd go with the 40 cal flare and use it similar as I do the 9mm for the 40.

Vince

[Gti18T]

i'm reloading for 9mm. It sticks pretty bad. I'm afraid powder flies out when i have to jerk the handle down to "unstick" it.

[sargenv]

Well, then if it's 9mm you're having a problem with, I'd go one down and try the flare for something like the 32 magnum/32 S&W long. I don't have any issues with my 9mm/38 super flare on 9mm or 38 supers, but going down a size is certainly an option.

Vince

Edited December 2, 2006 by sargenv

[Gti18T]

Thanks vince, i'll look into it on monday. I appreciate it.

[sargenv]

You bet. I've found that changing to the smaller powder flare also tends to deposit the powder in the center of the case better, so it piles more in the center and you don't get the "splash" that you might otherwise.

Vince

[John Dunn]

If you're not lubing, you should. Makes things a heck of a lot easier.

[George]

You are most likely flaring the case mouth too much and the case is just plain being pushed too far onto the belling flange.

I reload about 6 flavors of 9x and have 6 different tool heads in 9x and they all have the 9x powder drop tube on them. The only time I ever had this problem was when I was new to reloading and set for a whole lotta' case mouth bell-out to be on the safe side. Once I reduced the bell-out setting to just enough to accept the bullet cleanly, I have never had this problem again.

I never lube for pistol loading so even though that may help, it isn't the real solution, just a band-aid fix for the problem IMO.

You should also take a goood look at the outside of the case flaring part of the drop tube. If it isn't smooth as glass there, it may need to be polished up to keep friction down. I buffed all mine to a mirror finish a long time ago and have never looked back.

I really feel you are just pushing the belling head too far into the cases and they are getting stuck as a result of that.

[ihatepickles]

Clean your dies regularly too. I'm not sure if this is a new problem or something you've been dealing with for a while. I take the tool head off the press and clean with soft pipe cleaners and lighter fluid (cheap and easy degreaser). I do this before every batch of ammo I run, which is usually 2000 at a time. Every few months I clean the whole press by following Dillon's procedure in the manual. Dirty machines don't feel smooth.

If you're not already, you need to be using lube on your cases, even if you're using carbide dies. Hornady One-Shot is the best stuff out there, lubes well and doesn't leave the cases greasy afterwards (no need to clean the loaded ammo afterwards). The lack of lube could definitely be the culprit making the press feel sticky.

[warpspeed]

Dan,

Is the brass new or fired?

I have had problems with the expander sticking on virgin brass. If this is happening on fired brass, make sure you are only expanding the case mouth enough to allow the bullet to seat without shaving. The other thing that will help is to polish the expander. I chucked it in my drill press and used some steel wool with a little oil at low speed to make it like a mirror. you can feel real quick if you have an edge. If so, some 600 grit sandpaper may be needed first.

[Gti18T]

ah ha! I found out what it was! I was using this crappy brass. It was clean as a whistle and nice looking, but it just didn't function well in my press.

I loaded up a whole tube of it and had problems with every one. I then loaded a whole tube on winchester and had no problems at all. Then i loaded them alternating in the tube, and it was the crappy brass i ended up having the problem with every time.

I appreciate everybody's help. Maybe it's just that the brass on that specific brass is thicker or something i'm not sure.

[aggie dad]

I am having the sticking problem with my 550B, loading .40 nickle brass. I do not have much of a bell and think I am ok there, however, when I lube my cases I stand the cases up with the open end down and therefore no lube is getting into the mouth of the case. Could that be the problem? Also, I suppose the powder funnel could be polished some more, but it looks to be in good shape. This is really annoying and it slows me down. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

Doug

[blkbrd]

Try chucking up the powder funnel in a drill and polishing it.

Use Hornady One Shot or Size-All case lube. Put a bunch 2-300 in a gallon freezer bag spray them, roll them around, and reload smoothly away.

Lubrication is good

[aggie dad]

Doh! I just read the directions on the One Shot can and it says to stand the brass up and spray at 45 degree angle so that some lube goes into case mouth. Geez, somewhere I heard just the opposite. I will also polish the funnel with some Flintz and hopefully that will smooth things out.

Thanks,

Doug