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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

C-more Help


Mo Zee

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Hi all,

I have been shooting my open gun for about six years now and still having difficulty with my dots. I recently ordered a 2 moa and 16moa dot from c-more.  I tried shooting the 2moa at 10 - 12 yards and I dropped a lot of my shots. Previously I had an 8moa dot and I shot much more accurate with that.

I am trying out the 2moa dot because of the 50 yard shoots that we might have at the WS. It now seems that the 16moa dot works better for me at the near target ie 5 - 20 yards becuase it is much brighter. If this is the case I am going to have a problem with the far targets (50 Yards) with that 16moa dot covering or partially covering that target. Can the dots be changed without re-zeroing it again, or does anyone have a solution and secondly would you guys rather shoot the 2, 8 or 16 moa dot from your experiences?

Thirdly, does the dot on the c-more seem to fade as time goes by or is it only a problem on mine?

Thank You

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Try the 6 min dot. That's what I use and find it a good compromise.It is bright enough to see unlike the 2 or 4 and small enough for the head shots or 50yds.16 min is just to big . No you can't change modules without rezeroing.

Good Luck,

Bill Hearne

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The 6 min works best for me for our style of shooting.  Like Bill said - it's bright enough and works okay on the long shots.

The dot doesn't get dimmer, the lens get dirtier and dilutes the dot.  I tried the Hoppe's trick someone posted earlier and it worked really well.

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16 min.  is not at all too big, I've done quite well with one.  Just depends on personal preference (and eye strength?).  See my post on big dots - I'll find where that was for you.

Here is the link to this very discussion earlier in the year:

http://www.brianenos.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard...32&topic=54

Bret

(Edited by Bret Heidkamp at 9:38 am on July 29, 2002)

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I agree with the others that 6moa is a good all around dot size.  I shot an 8moa for a long time and a 12moa for about a year.  I found that the larger dot made my shots sloppy, I guess that as soon as I saw brown cardboard behind the target I was pulling the trigger.

The dot's can "go bad" or "dim".  It is usually the module that goes bad, and can be replaced.  I've had to do it many times.

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Hey Adam!  Glad to see you aboard.

The dots I've had usually fill with carbon build-up from powder smoke, after thousands of rounds.  The Limcat glare shield seems to prevent this really well.

Usually cleaning the dot (carefully!) will return it to full brightness and roundness.  

At my day job, we go through millions of LED's in a year so it is something I know about (albeit indirectly... I'm not an engineer but I run the company).  

They lose the majority of their potential brightness drop in the first year of use (assuming they are run 24/7), after that it is barely noticeable.  

So... as far as C-Mores are concerned, the mechanical properties of the LED in my opinion aren't going to affect dot brightness.  LED's don't really noticeably fade in our applications here - they just die altogether.

Red LED's are the cheapest of all (besides amber) and I don't know which brand is in a C-more but fading shouldn't be an issue.  

I would say that darned micro-hole in the module getting dirtied up has the most dot fouling potential, and it's really stubborn to remove.  I've actually made the mistake of getting too aggressive and have ruined a dot before (a little too much brake cleaner...).

I haven't found a good way to clean them besides isopropyl and compressed air.

Anyone care to comment on dot cleaning procedures?

Bret

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  • 2 weeks later...

The best and safest way to clean the C-More LED is with a lens cleaner (Birchwood Casey or something similar) and a small, soft bristled brush. Don't use stiff bristled brushes as they will damage the mask. Don't use a solvent as LEDs are plastic. The women's cosmetics counter is a good source for cheap, small, soft bristled brushes.

Flood the LED mask with lens cleaner and work the fluid in the hole with the brush. Use a lot of fluid and press the brush in and out over the hole. Repeating the procedure a few times for 20 or 30 seconds completely cleans out the hole without damaging the LED or the mask.

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Since it's ALWAYS sunny over here in Vegas, I found it almost impossible using a 6 moa.  It's fine standing and shooting, but once there's movement forget it.  After getting frustrated last year at the Area 2, I bought a 12 moa and used it for a while.  It was much easier to see, but I didn't like using it on long range targets or medium dirty targets.  If only C-More made a 10 MOA.  Anyone know the reason?  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just use a Q tip with windex sprayed on it.

I use a 8 minute dot.  It only covers 4 inches at 50 yards which will easily stay in the A zone at 50.  We do not need much better than that in out sport (IMO).  Everything else is just personal preference with the dot sizes.

Brian

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