Loose Ejector On Sv Infinity

[ExtremeShot]

I recently noticed a little play in my SV's ejector. It appears the movement is in the rear post.

I've never messed with an ejector before, therefore I have a couple questions:

1) Is this movement normal? ....I'm assuming not.

2) If not, what holds the rear post in place? I don't have the gun in front of me now, however, I believe there is a pin that holds the front post in place. What holds the rear post in place? ...Loctite?

Thanks for the help,

Darren

[Chuck Merriam]

Tight fit holds it......if the pin in the front can be pushed out with minor effort with the slide off then it has loosened. I would see if you can romove it and inspect very well after it is cleaned. I would look at both pins where they meet the body of the ejector for cracks. SV's are very tight fitting guns...could just be a cracked pin you happened to catch early. Good luck. PM me if you find you need one in 40 cal blued...I have an extra

[EricW]

Buy a new ejector from Brazos and fit it yourself. In my *opinion* the ejector should fit fairly tight. I have to tap mine in with a brass hammer. I still have it pinned up front. My belief is that this yields the most consistent ejection and greatest reliability over the long haul.

You can get very nice barstock ejectors from: http://www.1911store.com

Tuning directions are on the website. Bob and Ingi are at Nats, so your order won't ship until next week, but you'll be very happy when you get it.

[ExtremeShot]

Eric,

Thanks for the info. I also talked with Brandon at SV and he said if there's no damage I can use some Loctite to tighten things up a little.

Again, I haven't messed with the ejector before, but it appears there's only the one dowel pin holding it in?

As chmerr mentioned, I was able to push the pin out with little effort but couldn't pull the ejector straight out with my fingers. I'm wondering if the front leg has cracked and is now making it difficult to remove.

I guess I will also get an extra ejector and pin just in case.

Thanks,

Darren

[.40AET]

I've had the ejectors on both of my guns work loose after time. One was a pinned SV factory and the other not pinned. Red Loctite fixed both. BE CAREFUL. One or both holes for the legs are common to the disconnector tunnel. the ejector is tight you will need to get a small flat screwdriver under it and slowly wiggle it up and out. After you loctite it in, turn it upside down so the loctite won't run into the frame. After it cures put just the slide on and make sure that it still clears the ejector.

Edited to change extractor to disconnector. Sorry.

Edited October 17, 2006 by .40AET

[Dave Sample]

Here is how I remove ejectors.

I clamp the ejector in my vice with the frame straight up and down and tap the frame until the ejector clears. I then clean the frame and ejector with acetone, apply some GREEN Loc-Tite 640 or 638 which is the proper adhesive for sleeve retaining, and let it set up ageter I clean up the residue with a Q-Tip. I then install the ejector pin and let it set up for a day before I put the top end back on.

If the front stud is broken off, it will need to be put on a big mill and carbided out. It is not something the average guy can do. Good Luck.

Red Loc-tite is a tough lock washer. It is not a sleeve retainer. It may work OK, but who knows?

Red is for Thread

[.40AET]

Red Loc-tite is a tough lock washer. It is not a sleeve retainer. It may work OK, but who knows?

Dave- Can you get green Loctite to come appart if the ejector breaks off?

[ExtremeShot]

I'm not sure about the green, but the red Loctite has to be heated to something like 300 or 400 degrees to get it to break loose. The typical indicator that it has broken free is when it starts to smoke.

DM

Red Loc-tite is a tough lock washer. It is not a sleeve retainer. It may work OK, but who knows?

Dave- Can you get green Loctite to come appart if the ejector breaks off?

[ExtremeShot]

Huh? The extractor is in the slide. The ejector is on the frame. Maybe you mean the pin tunnel is common with the front leg of the ejector?

Anyway, it appears mine was just a little loose and not damaged. I'm going to Loctite it in.

DM

BE CAREFUL. One or both holes for the legs are common to the extractor tunnel.

[ExtremeShot]

Dave,

What size bottle of that green Loctite do you have? Fastenal sells the big bottles for about $30 or $40, which is way more than I want to spend or will ever need. It also appears that Lowes and Home Depot don't sell the Green. Can you think of any other place that might have a small bottle?

...I have some blue Permatex Medium Strength Thredlocker. ...I'm wondering if that would work? I also have the red Loctite 262, however, I don't want to have to heat up my gun to get the ejector out in the future.

What do you think?

Darren

Here is how I remove ejectors.

I clamp the ejector in my vice with the frame straight up and down and tap the frame until the ejector clears. I then clean the frame and ejector with acetone, apply some GREEN Loc-Tite 640 or 638 which is the proper adhesive for sleeve retaining, and let it set up ageter I clean up the residue with a Q-Tip. I then install the ejector pin and let it set up for a day before I put the top end back on.

If the front stud is broken off, it will need to be put on a big mill and carbided out. It is not something the average guy can do. Good Luck.

Red Loc-tite is a tough lock washer. It is not a sleeve retainer. It may work OK, but who knows?

Red is for Thread

[Ken Mays]

What size bottle of that green Loctite do you have? Fastenal sells the big bottles for about $30 or $40, which is way more than I want to spend or will ever need. It also appears that Lowes and Home Depot don't sell the Green. Can you think of any other place that might have a small bottle?

Hi,

Check your local AutoZone or equivalent. They should have something that will suit the application.

[EricW]

Fit the new ejector right and you won't need to glue anything. If I can do it, anybody can.

[BSeevers]

Brownells

Dave,

What size bottle of that green Loctite do you have? Fastenal sells the big bottles for about $30 or $40, which is way more than I want to spend or will ever need. It also appears that Lowes and Home Depot don't sell the Green. Can you think of any other place that might have a small bottle?

...I have some blue Permatex Medium Strength Thredlocker. ...I'm wondering if that would work? I also have the red Loctite 262, however, I don't want to have to heat up my gun to get the ejector out in the future.

What do you think?

Darren

Here is how I remove ejectors.

I clamp the ejector in my vice with the frame straight up and down and tap the frame until the ejector clears. I then clean the frame and ejector with acetone, apply some GREEN Loc-Tite 640 or 638 which is the proper adhesive for sleeve retaining, and let it set up ageter I clean up the residue with a Q-Tip. I then install the ejector pin and let it set up for a day before I put the top end back on.

If the front stud is broken off, it will need to be put on a big mill and carbided out. It is not something the average guy can do. Good Luck.

Red Loc-tite is a tough lock washer. It is not a sleeve retainer. It may work OK, but who knows?

Red is for Thread

[.40AET]

..I have some blue Permatex Medium Strength Thredlocker. ...I'm wondering if that would work? I also have the red Loctite 262, however, I don't want to have to heat up my gun to get the ejector out in the future.

If you don't want to heat up your gun to get the red to melt, my understanding is that green is worse.

My simple understanding of Loctite:

Blue=tools

Red=heat

Green=Forever

[Dave Sample]

It is available at the auto parts store at about $5-6-7.00 a tube. I do not always use Lock-Tite. It depends on the gun. I always pin them. The ejector is trapped in by the slide and can't leave. I do think that when they are loose, they tend to break. I don't like parts flopping around anywhere in a 1911. I have gone through about three tubes so far, and one was lost do to careless handling on my part.

A Little Drop Will Do You!

Lower ends are built to + or - specs. So are ejectors. If you have one that is small (The ejector stud) and a hole that is large( The lower end) then it's nice to be able to take the slop out of that installation. Green Loc-Tite is made for that job. I use it for front sight staking, also.

It does take more heat to loosen it, but that area of the lower end is not affected much by the heat. You need heat for Red and a little more for Green. I use an electric heat gun which is quick and clean, no need for torches.

In the good old days, the GI type ejectors would last for the life of the gun and were not prone to be a problem like the extended ones we use today for quicker timing of empty case ejection. The extended were first used in 9mm's, .38 Super's and Colt Commander's. Then they became S.O.P. with the race guns. I think the extended tip creates a little more strain on the metal part , but can't prove it. Just another Internet Opinion.

I have never had to replace an ejector on any of the guns I built. I have done a bunch of them on less than nice 1911's that were not built up to my standards. I have had to carbide the stud out of several of the broken ones from being rusted in. Most guns are rust blued with the ejector in place and it is a natural place to aquire rust.