New G35, Some Trigger Job Questions

[Matt Griffin]

I'm switching to Glock from Beretta, mainly for the better accessories and the grip angle, which seems to be my natural angle. I've made peace with the fact that lefties are never going to be equal when it comes to controls, but the trigger is pretty hideous. Among the .25$ job, the Sotelo, triggerkit.com, and the NY trigger job?, I'm wanting to do two things:

1. Shorten the takeup a bit

2. Get a smooth takeup until release

Coming from a DA/SA pistol, the weight really isn't an issue, I'm used to prepping triggers. But the crunchy stacky feel has to go. I'm pretty sure that a polish job will get me where I want to be in that respect, but I'm not sure how to go about shortening the takeup/reset distance. I'm also curious as to whether the 3.5 connector has any inherent advantages other than a lighter pull, and if a polish job + connector will in any way reduce the reliability of strikes below 100%. I have NO interest in messing with the pistol to the extent that I have to worry about function.

Thanks for the information. I've read this whole forum, nearly, and it gets a bit overwhelming with the various options that have their lovers and haters.

H.

[cmzneb]

Adding a FACTORY 3.5# connector and doing a polish job won't hurt the reliability. Just Polish, don't start removing metal!

The light strike problem usually comes in when people put in a Wolf Reduced Power striker spring. This spring lightens up the trigger pull, but the spring needs to be replaced OFTEN or you will start encountering light strikes.

As for the takeup, if you keep the trigger depressed through the shot and train yourself to only let it out enough until it clicks and resets, you will eliminate that extra takeup.

NY Trigger spring will INCREASE your trigger pull. However if you combine a NY1 spring with a 3.5# connector, some people say that gives a better feel. I personally prefer the regular spring and 3.5# connector. (Actually Glock now refers to it as the 4.5# connector, which is actually closer to the actual pull)

[Matt Griffin]

Adding a FACTORY 3.5# connector and doing a polish job won't hurt the reliability. Just Polish, don't start removing metal!

The light strike problem usually comes in when people put in a Wolf Reduced Power striker spring. This spring lightens up the trigger pull, but the spring needs to be replaced OFTEN or you will start encountering light strikes.

As for the takeup, if you keep the trigger depressed through the shot and train yourself to only let it out enough until it clicks and resets, you will eliminate that extra takeup.

NY Trigger spring will INCREASE your trigger pull. However if you combine a NY1 spring with a 3.5# connector, some people say that gives a better feel. I personally prefer the regular spring and 3.5# connector. (Actually Glock now refers to it as the 4.5# connector, which is actually closer to the actual pull)

They list the 35 as having a 4.5# pull vs. the regular 5.5#, it doesn't already have the 3.5 connector, does it?

Also, I've been using MAAS polish for other things, would it be appropriate in this case? Has anyone used it?

H.

Edited June 16, 2006 by Houngan

[Rocket35]

The light strike problem usually comes in when people put in a Wolf Reduced Power striker spring. This spring lightens up the trigger pull, but the spring needs to be replaced OFTEN or you will start encountering light strikes.

I use the Wolff #4 striker spring and actually clip like two coils of it. I change mine every 4000 rounds with out failure. I use Win. small pistol primers.

As for the take up I have done a little job that I picked up from an article in Front Sight some years ago (July/Aug 2003 issue). It is Lin Webb's technique I am guessing from the article. But it works famously! It includes one 2x56x1/4" screw, .035 hex wrench and both 1/16 and 5/64th drill bits. What you do is drill a hole into the trigger housing forward of the cruciform slot and insert the screw until you take up the desired pre-travel. It is completely adjustable and reversable. I have a copy of the magazine and article. But don't know how to attach a PDF.

[SRT Driver]

Just polish in the right places.

I use SimiChrome and a q-tip. A Dremel is faster but messy.

The RS kit is a great value. I use one in a Production G17 and a G34 that used to have a Vanek.

An RS kit with a 5lb connector and the stock striker spring comes in at 3 lb or so with light take up and a crisp break in my G17.

Technique wise, I just let the trigger reset, like Cmzneb suggests. Take up is only an issue on the first shot.

[bountyhunter]

They list the 35 as having a 4.5# pull vs. the regular 5.5#, it doesn't already have the 3.5 connector, does it?

I believe it does. The connector "number" value does not directly correlate to trigger pull weight.

As for the take up I have done a little job that I picked up from an article in Front Sight some years ago (July/Aug 2003 issue). It is Lin Webb's technique I am guessing from the article. But it works famously! It includes one 2x56x1/4" screw, .035 hex wrench and both 1/16 and 5/64th drill bits. What you do is drill a hole into the trigger housing forward of the cruciform slot and insert the screw until you take up the desired pre-travel. It is completely adjustable and reversable. I have a copy of the magazine and article. But don't know how to attach a PDF.

When installed, does it allow the trigger to come far enough forward so the trigger safety (the little piece in the trigger) can snap forward?

Or, does it just let the trigger come far enough forward to let it reset with respect to the striker?

[Rocket35]

To get the most out of it you need to modify that little tigger safety tab. But, yes, all the safeties are still 100% functionable. Reset is also 100%. Although that modification makes it illegal for production. But I don't like production. I primarily have been shooting Limited-10 and some Limited with it. I have had absolutely zero problems with it and people have commented that it is the best Glock trigger they have felt. It cost me in the ballpark of $12 with the Flitz polish job and Wolff Competition spring kit. When you add the Lightning Strike aluminum trigger bar, it came to $97. Far from the $200+ custom jobs from the pros. And like I said I have had ZERO malfunctions, right out of the gate. I have duplicated this job on two other guns with the same perfect results.

Here is a picture of my baby.

[Matt Griffin]

One thing I like to do when polishing is to cut a Q-tip in half, and stick it in a cordless drill. It's slow enough that it doesn't sling polish everywhere like a dremel, but a heck of a lot faster than doing it by hand.

edit: Also, you need to run the drill counter-clockwise, or you'll just unwind the Q-tip. It's also handy to milk the cotton down a bit so it doesn't go fuzzy.

H.

Edited June 17, 2006 by Houngan

[jbullgpd]

Or you can just spend the money and get a Vanek trigger, the best one out there, and just for go all the polishing and replacing of parts.

[Matt Griffin]

Or you can just spend the money and get a Vanek trigger, the best one out there, and just for go all the polishing and replacing of parts.

I just put the first 200 rounds through my new 35. Wow! It's sooo soft-feeling. I'm attributing this to the longer slide and the better fit in my hand.

After the first 100 rounds I picked one of my Berettas up, and my comfortable grip had it pointed into the dirt twenty feet away. I'm really liking the angle on the Glock.

The trigger has gotten noticeably smoother after polishing, dryfiring, and shooting. Two questions:

1. That last chink in the trigger before the release, is that the trigger bar making initial contact with the striker tang? I don't suppose there's any way to get rid of that.

2. Vanek mentions slide glide in his signature. Is that to say apply it to the actual contact surfaces on the bar, striker, and safety, or on the other parts of the connector where it might be rubbing/pinned?

H.

[the duck of death]

*QUOTE*

Although that modification makes it illegal for production.

I think this mod is ok for production, it's moving the trigger on the trigger bar that is illegal.

[Rocket35]

The trigger safety is external, and I do believe that USPSA has declared modifying that as an external mod. If you do a search there was a thread discussing that on this site.

[the duck of death]

Rocket35

No luck searching, perhaps you could enlighten me.

[Rocket35]

here is a link: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...=trigger+safety

Although it is kind of grey area, I got the impression that the trigger safety bar should not be "shaved or shortened" as per the ruling. Maybe I am wrong. But that part is external and I felt as though that would fall under the rulings of "no external modifications".

[nphd2000]

Changing the trigger safety in any way is illegal for production (not to sound harsh but that is the simplist way to put it)

*QUOTE*

Although that modification makes it illegal for production.

I think this mod is ok for production, it's moving the trigger on the trigger bar that is illegal.

[tking]

I have a copy of the magazine and article. But don't know how to attach a PDF.

Rocket 35

If you figure out how to attach that article, I'd be interested in seeing it. Can you attach it to an e-mail? If so, send it my way. Thanks

[Rocket35]

Yeah, just PM me your email, and I will send it out to ya.