Replacing Cmore Mount

[Qstick]

I am going to be replacing the cmore mount on an open gun and am wondering if I need to loctite the screws that attach the mount to the frame? If so, red?? blue?? Is there a general rule of thumb regarding torquing those screws or is it just "tight"?

How about the screws that hold the cmore to the mount...same routine.

Thanks,

Zach

[shred]

Green holding the mount to the frame. None or weak on the ones that hold the scope to the mount.

[redmercury2]

RED mount to c-more, superglue screws into frame,then run a line of liquid metal along the joint of the bottom of scope mount and dust cover. this holds with the heat of repeated bill drills in 110 degree az. summers, the loctite only method loosens in the heat.

[Qstick]

I have no idea what liquid metal is....but is it going to allow for future changes to the scope mount if it cracks etc... or is it permanent? Although I definately do not want the mount to move - I don;t want to be trapped into one mount for the life of the frame.

[Front Man]

I think I use 242, it is red regardless of the number.

The secret is to use the primer. You have to get the female threads really clean

(alchol, laquer thinner, or brake cleaner) let it dry and spray the Loctite primer into the holes.

Let the primer dry and reassemble with red loktite.

Get the primer!

I accidently found it at our local John Deere dealer.

The hardware stores didn't carry it.

They may call it something else; I'll check when I get home.

FM

Edited April 13, 2006 by Front Man

[Qstick]

Thanks - I've never heard of a primer, I guess I will have to search around.

Is red the "toughest" of all the loctite's?

ZH

[Loves2Shoot]

RED mount to c-more, superglue screws into frame,then run a line of liquid metal along the joint of the bottom of scope mount and dust cover. this holds with the heat of repeated bill drills in 110 degree az. summers, the loctite only method loosens in the heat.

I have my Seredipty scope mount MELT when I was doing tons of plate rack drills in the summer heat. Now I bring a cooler with ice when it gets hot out. I use the red.

[XRe]

I have my Seredipty scope mount MELT when I was doing tons of plate rack drills in the summer heat. Now I bring a cooler with ice when it gets hot out. I use the red.

Dude..... take more frequent breaks or bring a 2nd gun Think about what that's doing inside the gun, too... (wear accelerates w/ retained heat...) :lol:

Generally, red/271 for things you want to remove at some point later, but don't want them easily removed under normal circumstances (may take some heat to break loose), blue/242 for things you want moderately well locked, but easily turnable with a wrench/screwdriver (say, your racker screw or something like that). The green stuff is a wicking/penetrant locker that can penetrate threads that are already screwed together. It's pretty tough, too. There are others that are more permanent than red, as well....

[AlamoShooter]

I have my Seredipty scope mount MELT

MELT!... Dude your my Hero

[jmorris]

If you use MEK (Note: its carcinogenic but Home Depot has it) to clean before in conjunction with red locktite, it’s going to be semi-permanent (generally requires heat to disassemble). Also, counter sink screws, with or without thread locker, will take more torque to break loose than a fastener with less contact area. I would try the “weaker” thread lockers first i.e. start with purple then blue then red. The last thing you want is to round out a little Allen trying to get a bolt out.

[Front Man]

OK, I found the stuff; it is Loctite "KLEAN 'N PRIME".

Item # 37509, an Activator for Anerobic Adhesives.

The Primer makes all the difference.

I use it with 271.

You just can't go by the color, visit their web site some day.

FM2BED