1100 Wont Run

[oddjob]

I run a 11-87, but besides what people here have already mentioned I also changed the magazine tube follower to an aluminum one. I think you can buy these from Brownell's, but I had a friend machine one for me just a tad smaller in diameter. The plastice one was hanging up a little & this one slides freely.

[kimel]

+1 on buying spare oversized handles. You might as well buy a spare because you will eventually buy more than one.

One thing I discovered as I was replacing my 2nd oversize bolt handle is that the detent ball inside the bolt that holds the handle in place was gunked up. I disassembled as far as I dared, soaked it in solvent for awhile then hosed it out with degreaser. Re-oiled and re-assembled. Haven't lost the handle since. FWIW.

[wsimpso1]

Glad to hear that you got it running.

If you decide to bump the orifice to make it work for lighter loads, go in very small increments. Gas flow in sonic orifices goes roughly with the 4th power of the diameter, so carefully determine the current size (gauging with the back end or the drill bit works well) and go up only to the next drill size between tests.

And on the piston, seal, I believe Eric had it right. The Rem online manual covers it well, but I will review it here:

The piston has the chamfer on the inside and is cylindrical on the outside. The piston goes on the mag tube first with the flat surface to the rear, ready to hit the front of the action bars, which are also flat;

The seal has the chamfer on the outside and is cylindrical on the inside. It goes on the mag tube next with the chamfer of the piston and seal mating up with each other. That puts the contoured surface towards the muzzle, and causes the two parts to slide easily when operated by hand, but to seal fairly tightly when gas pressure is on them;

If you have a seal activator, it goes on next. The folks at Ilion finished this after I left the company, so I lack the detail knowledge that might be available elsewhere;

The "O" Ring goes on last. If it is the Rem part, check it often, and always have a spare in your bag. Or (better plan) buy a bunch from Eric and change them everytime you clean it, which should be every couple hundred rounds.

Lube with motor oil or your favorite gun lube (motor oil is cheaper and works great on the gas system). This gas system does not like to run dry.

Go enjoy a soft shooting shotgun!

Billski

[Kimberkid]

Thanks guys for all the replies. It is going to the smith next weekend to get the upgrades added. I've shot a few boxes through it now and it has run perfect, kicking empties well clear of the gun. I will report back after it gets done being modified and let ya'll know how it worked out in the end.

[bpowe]

Lube with motor oil or your favorite gun lube (motor oil is cheaper and works great on the gas system). This gas system does not like to run dry.

This is different from my experience! I have never had any luck running the gas system wet. When stored for the off season, sure but if it's wet with oil during use, powder residue gunks everything up within the first 50-100 shots. I carefully wipe all of the oil off and lube with dry graphite. Then I'm good for 200-500 rounds. (This is for the 1100, I've never worn mine out so no need of buying an 1187!

But he's exactly right about enlarging the gas ports, do one port at a time, one drill number at a time. It's a lot harder to make them smaller again if you get them oversize!

Bill

[George]

sure but if it's wet with oil during use, powder residue gunks everything up within the first 50-100 shots

Hmmm! whassup with that? You must be using a strange oil, or powder in your shells, or the gunk fairies must be loading it up while you sleep at night ;-)

I have run mine for as long as 800-1000 rounds with an oiled gas system and it may look like the inside of a combustion engine crankcase as far as dark carbonized oil goes, but it just wipes clean and there is no "gunky" residue per se'

When I ran mine dry many moons ago under the same assumption as you do, I used to think it was clean, but would spend lotsa' time with steel wool getting the carbon buildup off the outside of the mag tube near the gas ports. No more ever since going over to the wet side.

Have you tried a high temp synthetic detergent motor oil like Mobil 1, or Castrol GTX? These keep car engines clean and shiny inside and that is a whole lot tougher environment than a Gage gas system.

[Hank Ellis]

Thanks to all who've posted tips on this thread. It got my 1100 running.

Lubed the gas system with 5W-20 Castrol GTX (it's what I had laying around). Oriented the splits in the piston parts 180 degrees from each other in the 3 and 9 o'clock position.

Started with 3.25 dram loads and it cycled but not with 3.0 dram loads. Drilled out the gas ports one at a time till the 3.0 loads cycled. But the 2.75 dram loads wouldn't cycle. Continued opening the gas ports till the 2.75 loads cycled then finished with opening one port one more drill size for insurance. Ended up with one with a #44 and the other with a #45.

Now I need to make sure it works with the mag extension. Once that's done it's off for an EasyLoader install. Finally a 200 round marathon at the skeet range to make sure it'll run through a match.

Woo hoo. Thanks again.