Rolling Trigger Instructions

[Dusty]

I was reading on the forum about the trigger jobs Rob Leatham and BE do to their pistols with a radius sear engagement. So I was wondering if anyone makes a video or a detailed drawing and instruction on this procedure?

[AlamoShooter]

Don't try it or at least untill you can 'Snatch the Pebble from his hand"

[XRe]

...or steal the peach like a monkey....

[diehli]

Why not? At most you've got several ruined sears. As long as you'd take the same precautions as you would with a regular trigger job, it's not like you're taking any additional risks.

Anyhoo, I'd like the same info, if someone has it.

This is the only thread I can find on rolling triggers: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11054

[AlamoShooter]

A sear on a S&W mod 41 has a area that could be called Rolling. but the 41 is a 22 rimfire. The sear is cut just like any other and thin a 45 deg slope is cut off to let the hammer pass.

How do you spell Slam Fire none of my Mod 41s has ever slam fired , but sear on the center fire is not cut the same. Ok Ok I tryed it = but I am know better know.

the sear needs ot be able to catch the hammer at 1/2 cock if it fails with the Roll it more than likely will not.

[XRe]

Action items for Brian:

1 - start licensing or manufacturing sears

2 - start describing how to do roll trigger jobs, but only on licensed parts

3 - make scads of money on parts that people screw up while trying to figure it out

:lol: heh heh.... ah, if only there weren't liability involved... natch...

The "conventional" surfaces have that same 45 degree-ish relief on them, Jamie. Pretty similar (at least, if I understand what you're talking about). The half-cock notch on the hammer is taller, usually, and allows the notch to catch the sear in a slam fire event, and that sort of thing. The rolling trigger involves cutting the sear nose to be round, and when done properly maintains the same contact with the hammer until the sear releases - so the hammer doesn't cock/un-cock during trigger pull (that is, it stays stationary). The idea is that you can get a lower trigger pull, but you trade a little sensation of creep for it, if I understand correctly.

It can be easier to pull a slightly creepy feeling trigger, sometimes, too, apparently...

[bountyhunter]

Why not? At most you've got several ruined sears. As long as you'd take the same precautions as you would with a regular trigger job, it's not like you're taking any additional risks.

Anyhoo, I'd like the same info, if someone has it.

This is the only thread I can find on rolling triggers: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11054

I've done it by doing two flat cuts and then "rounding over" the point in between until I got the feel I wanted. Sears cost maybe $40, and I used the old one to practice and the new one when I got the angles I liked.

If you have a jig you could just keep changing the angle a touch and smoothing which would get you pretty close to a radius cut.

It can be easier to pull a slightly creepy feeling trigger, sometimes, too, apparently...

It also promotes better trigger technique in bozos like me if I don't know exactly where the break is coming.... I won't bother to try and time my flinch to meet it!