liveround Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I fitted the "Wolff type 2" reduced power rib main spring and a 13 lb rebound spring to my 686. I have the strain screw fully in. I get about 1 -2 failures out of 12 rounds due to light strikes. I'm using Federal primers and I'm confident the ammo is not at fault. Does the rebound spring make a difference to the striking power of the hammer ? Do I need to install the 14 or 15 lb rebound spring or take the power rib main spring out and bend it a little to get positive strikes every time ? thanks lr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Do I need to install the 14 or 15 lb rebound spring or take the power rib main spring out and bend it a little to get positive strikes every time ? The rebound spring will not have an impact on ignition reliability. If everything else is working well, and you're sure your primers are being properly seated to just below flush, then bending the mainspring a little to increase its tension should do the trick. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I fitted the "Wolff type 2" reduced power rib main spring and a 13 lb rebound spring to my 686. I have the strain screw fully in. I get about 1 -2 failures out of 12 rounds due to light strikes. I'm using Federal primers and I'm confident the ammo is not at fault. Does the rebound spring make a difference to the striking power of the hammer ? Do I need to install the 14 or 15 lb rebound spring or take the power rib main spring out and bend it a little to get positive strikes every time ? thanks lr Each gun is its own universe, but, that seems to be good enough to me to light Federals. Check your firing pin protrusion and your strain screw length. Any cylinder end shake problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 I fitted the "Wolff type 2" reduced power rib main spring and a 13 lb rebound spring to my 686. I have the strain screw fully in. I get about 1 -2 failures out of 12 rounds due to light strikes. I'm using Federal primers and I'm confident the ammo is not at fault. Does the rebound spring make a difference to the striking power of the hammer ? Do I need to install the 14 or 15 lb rebound spring or take the power rib main spring out and bend it a little to get positive strikes every time ? thanks lr A Wolff type two reduced power rib was 100% reliable for me with a stock length strain screw on Federal primers. However, I learned that a shorter strain screw caused light strikes immediately. I don't understand what I think I saw with this, but the power rib would not light primers that a bent stock spring would at nearly identical trigger pull weights. Said another way, at ~5.25 lbs pull, the gun is reliable with the bent stock spring but has similar failures to your descripton with the Wolff. With everything else identical. If it is at all possible that your strain screw has been shortened, that may be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liveround Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 If it is at all possible that your strain screw has been shortened, that may be the problem I bought the revolver new and it was never modified until putting the springs in. Strain screw is original. Does it make much difference, where the position of the bend is in the spring ? (i.e. top end /centre / bottom end) Thanks lr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Lee Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 Last year, Smith went to an even shorter firing pin(presumably for us CA drop test dummies). The rib in the center reduces the range of force for the strain screw and the shorter f/p may run out of gas before it hits the primer. You can tell if it is a shortened version because the tip is more conical than round. Just a thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 Liveround, What do the strikes on the primers look like? (Center, off center, light, primer appear rounded?) I use a pen or pencil to see how far the firing pin goes straight in the air. Not an exact measurement but mine gets about 3.5 to 4 feet out of the muzzle. Sory not much help. rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liveround Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 The 686 is now about 4 years old, The strain screw appears to be an original "full length" one. The primers with light strikes are dead centre with a small indent in the primer. The ignited rounds are nice centre strikes significantly deeper than the light ones. The thing that is bugging me is how can most of the strikes be fine with just the odd one light ? lr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 The 686 is now about 4 years old, The strain screw appears to be an original "full length" one.The primers with light strikes are dead centre with a small indent in the primer. The ignited rounds are nice centre strikes significantly deeper than the light ones. The thing that is bugging me is how can most of the strikes be fine with just the odd one light ? lr In my life that has indicated that the primer was high when struck and the energy of the firing pin strike was dissipated when the primer "seated". They usually fire on the second strike. High primers can come from the reloading process where they aren't seated in the first place, or loose primer pockets that allow them to back out during handling or firing. I would also disassemble the firing pin/spring/retaining pin and ensure there isn't any extraneuos crud floating around in the firing pin channel intermittently interfering with FP travel. (ASSuMING your 4 year old gun has the frame mounted pin) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 What Waltermitty said. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liveround Posted February 11, 2006 Author Share Posted February 11, 2006 (ASSuMING your 4 year old gun has the frame mounted pin) Yes it has, I took and cleaned around it. Fitted a brand new Wolff type 2 main spring, just in case the other was damaged. Tested it at the range today. First 12 rounds, El Presidente warm up, no problems Then a 24 round stage, had 3 light strikes. Next 5 stages was ok. Not entirely happy yet as it needs to be 100% reliable. If it fails again I think, the best thing is so get and exteneded strain spring. Any idea where ? Thanks lr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Liveround, How much play (forward and back) in the cylinder? The reason I ask is that the other day my revo had intermitent failure to fire. Primers were hit in the center lightly. But it had a lot of play in the cylinder. I replaced the cylinder bearings (shims) and all is well again until I wear these out and as they are my last ones they will wear out before I get a new shipment. For parts I go with Numrich Numrich Or brownells is good also. Hope this helps. rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Not entirely happy yet as it needs to be 100% reliable. If it fails again I think, the best thing is so get and exteneded strain spring. Hell, just take out the mainspring and bend it back a little. Take out a little of the arch, it won't take much. Then reinstall it, crank the strainscrew nice 'n' tight, you should be good to go. (And testfire BEFORE the match.) Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10mmdave Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 Coming in late to this thread but how about any "rubbing" of the hammer ?? If you see any marks on the hammer where it may be rubbing on the side inside of the frame it could slow down the travel of the hammer which could lighten the hit on the firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 Coming in late to this thread but how about any "rubbing" of the hammer ??If you see any marks on the hammer where it may be rubbing on the side inside of the frame it could slow down the travel of the hammer which could lighten the hit on the firing pin. +1! I had this problem big time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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