Anyone Using an FW Arms "Primer Popper" Decapper Die?

[HOGRIDER]

I found out after setting up and loading with my new die, that a lot of my Win fully processed brass contain smaller than normal primer flash holes!  The FWA die comes with a standard .077" pin along with 2 extras of the same size.

 

Didn't really want to order a 5-pack of the .056" tips:  https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/decapping-pins/package-of-5-replacement-small-flash-hole-tip-054-tip-diameter/

 

A fellow loader said he thought the Mighty Armory .057" pins were of the same threads/size/quality; and would be a direct replacement:

 

https://www.mightyarmory.com/collections/pins-and-shafts/products/copy-of-decapping-pin-070-standard-or-055-lapua-heat-treated-and-tempered?variant=5097667788841

 

Anyone have first hand data on this?  Or a couple of extra FWA pins they could part with?

 

Thanks!  

[Nc1911]

I was using the .056 pins due to the Norma small flash holes in 9mm.

They worked fine but you can break a pin if your case isn’t fully inserted into the shell plate.

I decap before I load so pulling the handle fast sometimes results in a case not fully inserted.

I went back to the larger pins and throw the small flash hole brass in the recycle bucket.

[HOGRIDER]

10 minutes ago, Nc1911 said:

I was using the .056 pins due to the Norma small flash holes in 9mm.

They worked fine but you can break a pin if your case isn’t fully inserted into the shell plate.

I decap before I load so pulling the handle fast sometimes results in a case not fully inserted.

I went back to the larger pins and throw the small flash hole brass in the recycle bucket.

@Nc1911 As I mentioned above I'm using fully/pre-processed brass that contain no primers.  Plus, with the Apex 10's shell plate spring and case retention springs at Station 1, I haven't had an issue...yet....with partially inserted cases.  The FW Arms decapper also has the auto case centering feature.

 

I was previously sizing/depriming at Station 2 with a Redding Pro Sizing die and .057" pin; and using another Lee sizing die (without decapping rod, of course) at Station 4 to stabilize priming..  Making a significant (IMO) change to the priming system, I decided to move the Redding sizer to Station 4 and use the FW Arms "universal" decapper at Station 2.  During an initial loading/testing session, I was experiencing a significant increase in handle resistance during the up-stroke.  Decided to test a dozen or so empty cases through the first 5 stations, and found out the unusual resistance was coming from the .077" decapping pin coming "up and out" of the small flash hole cases.  Even though my brass is same headstamp/pre-processed/primer-less, I still want a decapper in Station 1 just in case something slips through.  Never noticed the Win undersized flash holes with the Redding .057" bench rest pin!

 

Sorry to be so long winded; just wanted to share my unusual experiences.

 

Thanks for your reply!

[Revolution]

I experimented with probably more dies than I should have but here is what I found.  Mighty Armory dies decapped  the smaller flash holes great by the dies DO NOT provide enough neck tension on the re-size so in my opinion they are worthless.  Nothing like having your projectile sink into the case with no pressure whatsoever.  I don't have the extra station to use a universal decapping die so the mighty armory die is nothing but a paper weight.  Too bad because they really pop the primer out.  

 

Hornady makes a smaller pin also but you can't get it to protrude enough to pop out every primer.  

 

Redding was the best solution.  I switched out to their .057 benchrest pins and they work great.  Only thing is that you really have to tighten up the pin in the die or the norma case will pull it out.

 

Hope this helps!

[HOGRIDER]

17 minutes ago, Revolution said:

I experimented with probably more dies than I should have but here is what I found.  Mighty Armory dies decapped  the smaller flash holes great by the dies DO NOT provide enough neck tension on the re-size so in my opinion they are worthless.  Nothing like having your projectile sink into the case with no pressure whatsoever.  I don't have the extra station to use a universal decapping die so the mighty armory die is nothing but a paper weight.  Too bad because they really pop the primer out.  

 

Hornady makes a smaller pin also but you can't get it to protrude enough to pop out every primer.  

 

Redding was the best solution.  I switched out to their .057 benchrest pins and they work great.  Only thing is that you really have to tighten up the pin in the die or the norma case will pull it out.

 

Hope this helps!

I'm definitely partial to the Redding Pro Series dies!  Put a new set of these on the Apex10, and getting excellent results!

https://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/product/58172-redding-nxgen-comp-pro-series-die-set-9mm-luger/

 

Even though I haven't loaded any of the Norma brass, I've encountered my fair share of undersized flash holes in the Win brass I'm using!  Installed the .057" BR pin and that stopped my issue.  Also had to take pliers and give the decapping button a good tightening!

 

I have never experienced bullet setback with the Redding dies; one of the reasons I've always preferred them!  When I changed my setup recently, wanted to put a premium universal expander in Station 2 and decided on the FW Arms.  Just didn't think to grab a couple of the .057" pins when I ordered the die...........

 

IMO, a 10 Station Press is a game changer for single-pass pistol reloading! 

 

Thanks for your feedback!

 

 

[slavex]

I run the Popper exclusively on my Revo and Mk7 automated 1050, and normally run the standard pins, they punch through the small flash holes just fine usually, but that can leave a bur, or flashing that can interfere with primer seating. Usually the reamer in the swage station will pick that up. When I know I'm going to be seeing small flash hole stuff for sure, I swap out the pin to the 0.057 one and run it. Usually forgetting to swap it out for normal brass and then sadly breaking it on a rock or something (I process other people's brass and they suck sometimes at removing debris). The large pins break in that case too, so it's not like the small pin breaks that much easier. 

The MA pins will thread in, but they are nowhere near as durable as the FW ones, buy a bunch of the FW ones and be happy. 

[cool]

I don't know FW but I have an MA depriming with a large needle, I have enlarged thousands of small holes without any needle breakage, one stroke of a milling cutter mounted on a motorized frame and the deburring disappears and it's very fast