Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Magazine Engraving


ampleworks

Recommended Posts

After a while of working with my fiber laser, I'm comfortable enough to announce that basepads and tubes are now on the plate.

 

There are really two types of marking, either a deep engrave/etch or on some metals like stainless steel a deep rich black mark. The black mark is a chemical change to the steel and won't rub off. This is a very similar process to flame anodized guns/compensators. Aluminum looks great with a deep mark since it brings out the bright white raw look of the metal.

 

Polymer can be done with varying results. Gen 3 Pmags look the best overall and I keep some of these in stock so if you just want some cool custom mags, they can be shipped next day.

 

Markings can be flashy or discreet -- text height of 1/16th is still completely readable.

 

Pricing does vary a bit depending on what you're looking for (sometimes an art fee if you want a custom logo) but generally speaking $5/basepad or tube with minimum shop charge of $50. Discounts start at 25+ items.


Turnaround is currently < 1 week.

 

https://fgsarms.com/magazine-engraving-services/

image.png.e90767269babef17e10ebc83712fe6b2.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black stainless laser mark is great and very durable.  I did my mags 8 or 9 years ago when I got a fiber laser and they still look good.  You can sand it off with scotch-brite or fine sandpaper and quite a bit of elbow grease in case you need to change or erase the mark, but it's not coming off without work.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, shred said:

The black stainless laser mark is great and very durable.  I did my mags 8 or 9 years ago when I got a fiber laser and they still look good.  You can sand it off with scotch-brite or fine sandpaper and quite a bit of elbow grease in case you need to change or erase the mark, but it's not coming off without work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lot of work on some mags - I have a few that only a dremel with the wire brush wheel would touch and at that point it was obvious that a marking had been removed. Some customers have wanted both an etching and the black mark so its both visible and still exists if someone breaks the (black) oxide layer. MOPA also seems to do better with the chromium oxide layer and that works well for just about anything except reusable surgical instruments put in an autoclave. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...