Guest Dick W Holliday Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 i have tried every combination of recoil spring from 12,13,14 lb to the factory captured unit and three different guiderods and i get a jam like i've never seen before.......the fired round pulls about halfway out of the chamber--the extractor lets go and the slide goes back to pick up the next round and then stops against the next round in the mag because there is a round about half out of the chamber........if i remove the big brass magwell the gun runs flawlessly with every type ammo and every spring and guiderod combo......it seems to me that the issue must be with the extra weight on the magwell.........i'm baffled and have run totally out of things to try.........thanks for any suggestions....Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 Dick, Likely not the weight...look to the fit. Can you try it on another gun? The gun you are currently putting it on...is that the one you steamed and reformed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dick W Holliday Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Took the ISMI 13 # that came with the heavy package and ground probably 1/2 to 3/4 " off it.....went to the range today with some of the same loads that jammed so bad the other day (actually all loads jammed)......ran 5 or 6 high cap mags through it and only had one malfunction and it was of the same type as previously described.....so i think i'm on the right track......rather than shorten it any more i think i may use Dales hourglass method to lighten it a little more......the only problem i did encounter was the trigger was slow to reset so i'm guessing that i took too much off the firing pin safety plunger spring....no one has any Glock parts around here so i guess i'm off to the lock smith tomorrow....they are always a good source of small springs........Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Dick, The safety plunger spring, I don't think it should have an effect on the trigger reset. In fact, the gun can run without it in a pinch (like if you tear your gun down to clean it the night before the section match...and the spring flys away and disappears!) Your recoil spring works against the trigger springs (in opposite directions). If you get your recoil spring too light, you can have reset problems...or worse! You gun might not go into battery!!! Or, simply pulling the trigger may be enough to also retract the slide...whcih pulls the gun out of battery. Careful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dick W Holliday Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 if the slide goes fully forward..isn't that enough to reset the trigger?? the reason i ask is because the slide was fully forward and the trigger still didn't pop forward a time or two or was just slow....which made fast followup shots impossible..... i thought i tried the trigger test but maybe i did i wrong....tell me again how to do it....thanks....Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted February 12, 2003 Share Posted February 12, 2003 Make sure the gun is empty Remove the magazine, point the gun up, pull the trigger, retract the slide and slowly let it go forward. See if the gun goes fully into battery. If not replace the recoil spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDean Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 That test is important on carry guns, but sporting guns are different. My G20 (heavy slide) with the 13# spring wouldn't pass this test, but I never had a recoil spring related malfunction in 5,000+rds. Come clean Doc What mods have you done to this gun. If your trigger is not resetting when the slide is fully foward, it would indicate that the striker leg is not contacting the trigger bar tang to bring it foward with the slide. Have you drilled and relocated the trigger spring (Dale's method). Have you altered the striker or trigger bar tang? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dick W Holliday Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 i've done so much i may have forgotten a few but here goes......Peened the slide rails (not too tight but just enough to hold the slide down on the rear when trigger pulled)....cut a couple of turns off the firing pin plunger spring.....cut the striker of at angle like Dales.....took a small amount off the bottom of the tang....can't really say how much, i guess i should have measured before i honed it...... i haven't altered the trigger spring position....not because i didn't try...i just couldn't drill i hole on the damn thing, even after heating it........i did put a small plastic block at the back of the trigger block slot to act as an overtravel thing....put in a Wolff reduced power striker spring..... you know what the funny thing is????? all of a sudden the darn thing is working like a champ....shot 200 or so rounds the other day with a 12 and then a 14 spring and no malfunctions.....D I C K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDean Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Doc, you crack me up I've done the same things as you, but I have a couple worthless trigger bars in the bin 'cause I took too much off the tang, I suspect you did the same. You need .020"-.030" of striker leg to trigger bar tang overlap. If any less than that, the shock of recoil can cause to striker leg to slip over the top of the tang resulting in failure of trigger reset. If you clean it and all the conditions are right, you might not realize you have a problem. But sure enough, at a match that sucker will start to bite you. From my experience, Glocks need to be run on the conservative side of the spectrum. No more "pushing the envelope" for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDean Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 oops! I did it again DICK ...sorry, but with a name like Holliday....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDean Posted February 14, 2003 Share Posted February 14, 2003 Oh.. You can measure the tang-to-striker overlap by cutting an extra slide cover plate (the plastic piece on the back of the slide) in half widthwise. Just cut the bottom off the darn thing then reinstall it. Rack the slide...pull the trigger and look in there with a flashlight. OK Doc? Here's an idea for your custom avatar? (Edited by TDean at 10:16 pm on Feb. 13, 2003) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dick W Holliday Posted February 15, 2003 Share Posted February 15, 2003 Well if you must know i really wanted my name to be Doc but SASS (Single Action Shooting Society) already had someone with that name so "Dick" was as close as i could get.....the "W" stands for "Weed".....ever heard anybody called a "Dick Weed"????? i punched that name in Yahoo a few years ago and hell you can get T shirts and all sorts of stuff with "Dick Weed" on it.......What all that has to do with Glocks i don't know......Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryucasta Posted February 16, 2003 Share Posted February 16, 2003 Dick, I ran into a similar problem as yours when I built my Limited gun. When using the extended tungsten guide rod the firearm would FTF on demand. After trying a plethora of spring weights from Wolff and ISMI I basically settled on using the spring from the original Glock guide rod. With regards to the magazine well I' currently using two and there have been no problems to date. BTW, the following thread shows a picture of the Glock’s that have the Brass magazine well installed. http://www.glocktalk.com/showthread.php?threadid=131752 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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