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Canik spring issues


Shooter212

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I have the W74 rod and bought a couple different commander springs and the 6.5 Glock spring. If I run any recoil spring lighter then 17lbs I’ll get issues where the slide doesn’t always go in to battery all the way and it lights strikes/goes into battery. It’s not super common won’t happen in a local match but 2-300 major it happens at least once. Anyone else have this issue 17lb recoil is a little stout but clearing malfunctions on the clock is not fun. I tried a lighter striker spring and it will always go into battery but 1-2 rounds every 100 rounds it lights strikes. With a 15lb recoil spring and 6.5 striker it holds the slide up but barely if you pull it down a little with a loaded striker it won’t return all the way. It’s  coming into the off season now if I can’t fix it going to the X5 lol

Edited by Shooter212
Grammar
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I have a W74 with a 13 lb commander spring, 6.5 ghost, aftermarket trigger and return spring and my Canik works great.  Now if I SLOWLY release the slide, I have to SLIGHTLY touch the back of the slide to get it fully into battery and it’s JUST a hair out.  I forgot that I also replaced the plunger safety spring and smoothed up the plunger as it didn’t slide smoothly in its machined hole.

 

 I’m not a big guy (175 lbs) and I can fire one hand weak hand all day without a single failure. I don’t understand what the issue is with your pistol that requires a 17 lb spring to get it into battery. I could actually get mine to function with a 12 lb spring but my weak hand is pretty weak and it would occasionally fail to cycle properly.

Edited by copterdrvr
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I hate to say it but there must be something else going on that is hanging things up somehow.

 

 I put a 15 lb spring back in my SFX to get a sense of the increase in “spring force” and to ME it was a huge increase in the force applied to the slide to slam it back into battery. If it takes a SEVENTEEN pound spring to get the slide back into battery, there HAS to be something else going on. 
 

Regarding the primers-I did a search and some people are of the opinion that they are definitely on the hard side.

 

This may be a stupid question but have you “plunk and rotate” tested the rounds you are currently shooting in the pistol? Obviously if the cartridge OAL is too long or there’s too much flare left in the case mouth, that would cause issues. 
 

Just grasping at straws here!😜

Edited by copterdrvr
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I went through last night and put a fifteen pound spring back in. The ammo plunks and spins. It does it with federal, white box, got some hornady and reloads. Of course i have never seen exactly what’s happening because it happens sporadically usually in a match or running in practice. But cycling it by hand if I pull the striker out it slides into battery easy. But put the striker back in and slow cycle it soon as the striker catches it loses a lot of spring tension. I know under full recoil the slide should be sailing home and it shouldn’t be an issue. Maybe it is straight up light striking maybe those mag tech primers are hard but I can reload the round and it always goes off. 

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Again, just fish in’ here with some ideas…..

 

Do ALL of the different brands of ammo occasionally fail to go bang or just the Mag Tech primers? Can you compare a fired Federal primer to a Mag Tech primer and see if there is a noticeable difference in the indentation? Don’t use a Mag Tech primer you had to strike twice to light off.

 

If you can’t get the gun to go into battery 100% of the time with a15 lb spring and a6.5 lb striker there is something wrong with the pistol mechanically. Maybe you should take the striker back out, disassemble and reinstall the spring and try again. Lots of good stuff online that shows how to do it as a reference.

 

Before you take the striker out of the slide, hook your thumbnail on it and see how it feels to move it.

Take it apart, lube it and after assembly, see how it feels again 

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