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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by copterdrvr

  1. ChuckS you described the exact situation that I'm expecting to use the laser in! Mine is a Viridian HS1 which is part of a hand stop and it is awesome! I have used mine (I have three) quite a bit but I just put one on my PCC.
  2. Thanks for your reply! In case I'm questioned, where would I find a reference to its eligibility? Being a Lefty, I find that usually tight, "around the barrier" shots "seem" to favor those of the right handed persuasion and I thought it might help a bit. I love my red dot but I'm an old fart and don't bend so good anymore and sometimes the only option is to change shoulders and that eats up time...... Thanks again for your response.
  3. I looked in the rule book and couldn't find the info but I was told that a laser could be used on a PCC. I have a match tonight and hope I can get an answer or I'll need to remove my forward hand guard to insure I don't accidentally activate it. It will not be used except for weird, around the corner barricade shots.
  4. I have one 9 with the standard buffer AND the weight and the rest have the HD buffers and weight and to be honest, I'm not good enough to see any difference in splits shooting a 135 PF 147 load in 16 inch barrels. I do get the sense that I feel just alittle less "bolt bounce". I will be ordering the HD versions for any future builds, regardless.
  5. CMC PCC trigger that's been 100% CCI AR rifle match, CCI magnum rifle and all the regular primers.
  6. I had the same issue with a forged upper receiver but it was a simple fix. The part of the unit that makes contact with the receiver just in front of the "regular" charging handle needs to be ground down a bit as the unit is designed for "milspec" uppers. I took my trusty Dremel to it and it took about five minutes of grind and fit to get it to work properly. I contacted the manufacturer and he said my fix was exactly what was required and stated that the unit was designed to fit milspec uppers and that forged uppers were just a bit thicker and would cause a bind if the "nub" wasn't taken down a bit. Did it on two forged uppers and they work like a champ.
  7. I have around 2K rounds through my AR9 FM9 lower with the CMC 3.5lb AR9 flat faced trigger and it's been 100% and that includes some ridiculously light 95 PF loads as well as 135 PF loads.
  8. I have, well, let's say I have a few of them installed and I love 'em. I'm a lefty and it just feels good to be able to clear the gun still on my shoulder while holding the forend-very solid and easy to keep the dot on the target. Another benny is not having to worry about bustin' myself in the nose weighs less than five ounces which equates to 10 of my 147 grn rounds. My rifle as configured weighs exactly 6 pounds 11 ounces which feels light to me but I'm guessing the real gunners would consider that too heavy.
  9. I picked up a Faxon 16 inch barrel with integral muzzle brake, FM9 lower, CMC 9mm trigger, Blitzkrieg HD 9mm buffer and a no name upper and handguard and it's been 100% shooting it in USPSA competition. Cost me WAY less than a "store bought" gun.......
  10. Quick question-how do you think these numbers would work through a 16 inch barreled blowback PCC? Thanks for your hard work!
  11. My recent experience (last two years} of building AR9's shows that until very recently, 9mm AR barrels were more often than not 1/2 X 36 but recently I find there are more barrels that are available being threaded 1/2 X 28 and I think that's a mistake...... I think that 1/2 X 36 was a smart idea to keep the clueless idiots from putting their AR15 .223 muzzle brakes on a barrel that will blow up the gun (and possibly hurt themselves and others) on the first shot............
  12. On another note, I have two AR15 AERO lowers that I've converted to 9mm Glock by installing Sylvan conversion blocks and they have been 100% reliable. The Sylvan block is a solid, robust component that requires ZERO tweaking to get them to work-in fact, the simplicity of the piece is such that there isn't anything to "tweak". You need to look at their site and see the piece to understand it's construction and installation. I've shot the heck out of them and they just work. I'm a Lefty and love the ambidextrous design of the mag release-it's in front of the magwell and works perfectly.
  13. Couple of quick things that I just went through myself...... First off, remember that if you purchase a lower that has a "rifle" buttstock on it, you can NOT use it to build a "pistol" as the form 4473 will have it listed as a "rifle" and it can not be converted to a "pistol" AR unless you want to go through the hassle of registering it as a SBR. If you use either a stripped or completed lower that did not come with a stock installed, they will be listed as "other" on the form 4473 and you can do what you want with them. If the lower came as a "pistol" lower, obviously no issue as it will be listed as "pistol"... Length of pull can not exceed 13.5 inches and it is measured from the face of the trigger to the back of whatever "stock" you install and the "stock" must be at it's most extended position when you measure it. Overall length can not exceed 26 inches and it is measured from the muzzle (minus any removable muzzle devices) to the rear of the brace at it's collapsed to it's shortest position. To qualify as a pistol, you must meet all of these requirements and you can NOT install a vertical or angled grip. Hope this helps!
  14. If there is ANY spring that needs to be replaced IMMEDIATELY, it's the striker spring as it is ridiculously overpowered. The pistol was designed to pass NATO requirements for reliability and accuracy up to 60,000 rounds and the ability to "ignite" NATO spec sub machine gun ammo (obviously part of the NATO specs) and in this discussion means that the striker spring is WAAAAAY stronger than needed. If you change the spring, aim it at an interior wall when you remove it from the striker because if it gets away from you, it will be easy to find as it will probably be found embedded in the dry wall!!!!
  15. That is one awesome looking pistol!!!
  16. I'm confused-been loading 9mm, 380, 45 ACP, 38 Special and 357 mag using Dillon dies exclusively in 550's for over 40 years and have NEVER had an issue with them over God knows how many thousands upon thousands of rounds.
  17. Yeah, that's a little confusing....... we all know that a gas driven should chuck them about 4 o'clock.... with your response I don't know if you're giving examples for AR15's or AR9's but thanks anyway as I know were AR 15's should eject-the question is AR9's.....
  18. Did you put the Blitzkrieg weight at the front of the recoil assembly or did you put it at the bottom? I have he HD Blitzkrieg buffer installed in my AR's.
  19. What recoil spring and buffer are you using????
  20. Don't know who the question is for but myAR 9's all have CMC pcc triggers.
  21. I have CMC triggers in all of my AR9's and they all will shoot magnum small rifle primers.... The Canik TP9SFI have is significantly modded and it won't shoot the mag rifle primers reliably but shoots the rifle primers just fine.
  22. Interesting-I was thinking that bolt speed would be the determining factor as to the "direction" that the empties would be thrown from the rifle. I do need to add that the rifles are 100% reliable-I was just assuming that the ejection pattern would illustrate the same "issues" with both rifles. In the AR15 it has to do with bolt speed so I assumed it would be the same for the 9mm..... I was thinking that some more "tuning" would smooth out the guns and improve my split times.........
  23. I know that a properly "tuned" AR 10 and 15 throws empties between 3 and 4 o'clock and I was curious if a properly tuned AR-9 should do the same thing with the correct balance of recoil spring, buffer and ammo..... My current AR-9's throw empties at around 2 o'clock......
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