Looking For Scope Mount / Shroud

[SRT Driver]

Guys,

Has the Accurail process changed lately or something?

My Open IPSC pistol is Accurailed and from the way it looks the Accurails shouldn't affect the lockup at all. The bottom of the rails on the frame are radiused and the bottom side of the slide rails are machined to match.

The top of the frame rails and where they ride on the slide are untouched. Unless they are shaving the top of the frame rails now or fitting larger Accurails, something doesn't seem right.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem but it seems like you'd have to remove material from the top of the frame rails to lower the slide and affect lock up.

Let me know..I was going to sent my Bianchi gun to get 'railed too. From the way they did my IPSC gun there doesn't seem to be a way to screw up the barrel fit. Unless they changed the way it's done.

Thx!!

[38stupid]

Guys,

Has the Accurail process changed lately or something?

Let me know..I was going to sent my Bianchi gun to get 'railed too. From the way they did my IPSC gun there doesn't seem to be a way to screw up the barrel fit. Unless they changed the way it's done.

Thx!!

My Para 38 Super was railed. The top of the frame was machined down so far that

the ejector rubbed on the inside of slide and had to be ground down. The link that

the "railer" put is was a super short link with the slide stop pin hole shaped to look like an egg just to get the gun into lockup.

The bottom lug was recut in such a way that the lug had a point on the radius surface

which the slide stop pin follows.

The gun (which ran perfectly before) would not run 175pf loads! My gunsmith made a custom short link, re-shaped the bottom lug, did some misc. fitting to get the gun to run. I now can run with 155 pf loads (ok for IPSC but not the Bianchi cup modified class)

I am building a Cup gun and I am trying to decide if I will rail the gun. I like the theory of the rails and I know of many people that have had NO problems. But I also hear of

people such as myself that have had nothing but problems.

Bob

[gm iprod]

If done properly rails work fine. Go direct to Kreiger or any well known gunsmith, someone that is well recognised and respected (ie expensive) and use them.

I have one gun with and one gun without rails. The newest was designed in such a way that rails would not be a starter. My metallic sight gun is a converted open gun that was railed. Works perfectly. I think Doug Jones did this one, but I here rumours he is no longer doing them.

Both shoot much better than I can shoot them in a match.

[Action Pistolero]

My frame was showing wear on the top. When I sent the gun back to get it re railed he put larger rails in and that would pull the slide down. Therfore, the barrel would not come down out of lock far enough to allow the slide to move rearward. We put in a smaller link and that helped as long as the shroud was not on it. The ejector was also dragging on the slide.

I would feel comfortable sending a brand new frame and slide to get railed. A gun that has already had the barrel fitted I would think twice about it.

[SRT Driver]

My Para 38 Super was railed. The top of the frame was machined down so far that

the ejector rubbed on the inside of slide and had to be ground down.

My frame was showing wear on the top. When I sent the gun back to get it re railed he put larger rails in and that would pull the slide down.

I see now. The wear and larger rails pulled the slide down to affect lockup. I couldn't understand why they would machine the top rails if it wasn't necessary.

[Kimberkid]

If I was building a new gun that was never gonna see anything other than 130 pf AP or steel loads, I wouldnt even think about having it railed to start with. Its like giving away a new fit. Whether you rail it or not you pay to have the gun fit up, then down the road if nessecary you can add the rails. Why pay upfront something you may never need? I think a lot of people have a misconception on how long it will take to wear loose a Bianchi gun. Ken Tapp was the only guy I ever knew that truly wore one loose, and it had to have 100,000 through when he sold it to John Cameron who then shot it hard for a few years. (Richard and Karl, if I am mistaken on this lineage, please correct me)

Also, as Kevin said, and we all should know, just cuz its a little loose, doesnt mean it wont still shoot. If you are building a new gun, have it well fit, hand lapped, and enjoy the butter slick operation of a truly new, truly well made gun. If down the road you have to have it tightened up, then have it railed.

Or, quit all this crap and buy my gun which is already railed and runs like a raped ape.

Kevin, sorry I didnt catch you when ya needed it. Kinda funny, cause once we hogged out the shortest link we could find with a dremel tool, and did a little work with a bench grinder, it has been the most reliable gun I have ever owned, carry guns included.

[gm iprod]

Kimber Kid

Correct lineage on JC's NRA gun. I think the gun is soon to be finding a new owner. As Lynn has decided to move on some of the less sentimental stuff.

I also stand to be corrected on this.

That handgun is heading for 150,000 rounds. If it has not already passed that.

Harry Hoover (7th BC in 2003) has a gun that he has just rebarreled and I know for a fact it has had more than 200,000 on the first frame, slide and barrel. The original barrel was still tight in the frame after that amount of time, it just had no rifling left. He installed a new barrel and it shoots well under 2" at 50Y. The old barrel now has a new 9mm barrel sleeved into it, and that is what Harry runs for practice. Still shoots just over 2" at 50Y.

Kimber Kid is right over a new pisto, for AP. My new pistol is not railed and I prefer that system on that gun. I would rail an older pistol that had been shot a lot and wanted to save on buying a new frame and slide. If you are starting from a box of NEW parts get them fitted properly and tight.

[38stupid]

I use a 6" Kart barrel with an aluminum 3 port comp. The comp is from EGW and like Alan has said we have had a few crack but I have never had that problem with many thousand rounds put through it.

The only mags that we use are Wilsons with 1 or 2 coils cut off. Mag problems are non existent. I've tried Metalform but had many problems.

Kevin

Kevin,

The Kart barrel I just got is 6". The end of the barrel (muzzle) is at a dia. of .581"

Thats is the area that the bushing locks up on in a full 6" gun. After about .375" of

an inch the barrel tapers to .573" dia..

Unfortunately, putting the 6" barrel in a 5 " slide puts the .581 dia. in the wrong place.

Thats is the place I am threading for the comp. Did you use a custom bushing? Or can you ream an undersized bushing to the small .573 dimension.?

The magazines you speak of above are (I assume) the 38 super mags.?

Thanks,

Bob

[Action Pistolero]

Bob,

I'm still on the road so I don't have a pair of calipers with me but I do have the Brownells book with me. Don't leave home without it. I use the oversize MGW bushing part#584-571-434. It shows that it has a .575 inside diameter. I don't know how much clearance is needed between the barrel and bushing. My gunsmith takes care of that. I do know that the fit needs to be a little loose to allow the barrel to tilt when it comes out of lock. If you feel that you need a smaller I.D. Clark has a bushing with an I.D. of .533. You could then use a reamer to get it to size that you wanted. The Clark bushing part# is 181-001-045. The reamer is Part# 170-531-002. I thought I remembered watching my gunsmith turn down the O.D. of the barrel where the bushing sits. I'm assuming that you did get a new classic barrel. We did have to turn down the O.D. of the barrel behind the bushing because it caused too much drag.

The mags are 38 Super. The best place to get them is from Brownells. Part#965-047-310.

I use a 6" Kart barrel with an aluminum 3 port comp. The comp is from EGW and like Alan has said we have had a few crack but I have never had that problem with many thousand rounds put through it.

The only mags that we use are Wilsons with 1 or 2 coils cut off. Mag problems are non existent. I've tried Metalform but had many problems.

Kevin

Kevin,

The Kart barrel I just got is 6". The end of the barrel (muzzle) is at a dia. of .581"

Thats is the area that the bushing locks up on in a full 6" gun. After about .375" of

an inch the barrel tapers to .573" dia..

Unfortunately, putting the 6" barrel in a 5 " slide puts the .581 dia. in the wrong place.

Thats is the place I am threading for the comp. Did you use a custom bushing? Or can you ream an undersized bushing to the small .573 dimension.?

The magazines you speak of above are (I assume) the 38 super mags.?

Thanks,

Bob

[38stupid]

Kevin,

Thanks again. My order to Brownells is going in today........

The Kart barrel steps down as described. I also have a Will S. barrel coming for my

iron sight 6" gun. When I spoke to Will, he indicated that he maintains the same dimension

from the front to the rear of the barrel.

Thats what I love about this stuff, you learn a whole bunch when you do it yourself

(with information from others such as yourself)

Thanks,

Bob