Advice On Getting A New Revo

[Husker95]

I need some advice. Over the last few days my wife has actually been urging me to get a new gun for casual shooting/steel matches. This might only happen once in my life in this world, so i want to get it right. I am setup to load 45, so am looking at a 625. But ive read more than a few posts on the recent Randy Lee topic describing problems with S&W production practices. Is a current 625 still a good piece or would I be better off scrounging for an older used model? What do I need to look for when shopping for one of these guns? Also, while I can get this gun now, I do not have the coin to directly turn it over to a smith to be smoothed out or tuned. Considering this, is the 625 still a good option for someone like me? Thanks.

Husker

[Carmoney]

(OK, Randy and company, gosh-dangit! I was concerned about this from the very beginning of the whole super-dooper-titanium-esoteric thread....I think you owe it to Husker and others who are considering shooting revolvers in competition to chime in here with some real-life perspective....)

Husker, the current production 625 revolvers are perfectly fine, and your chance of experiencing any meaningful problems with one are nil. The gun I've been using in IPSC/USPSA competition all over the country this year, including the USPSA Nationals, is a recent-production 625 with MIM parts. Nothing has been done to it at all, other than an action job (done by me), a chamfer job (done by me) and replacement sights (done by me). And guess what--at Nationals Jerry Miculek used the same thing, a plain ol' non-PC current 5" 625, MIM parts and all.

Do not worry about all that handwringing over on Randy's thread. He's a great guy and a talented gunsmith, but for the most part, he's talking about "holy grail" stuff that doesn't make a lot of real-life difference for most shooters. A few people have had trouble with cylinder peening and resulting chamber skip, but I honestly believe this is the exception to the rule. I'd bet good money that way over 99% of recent-vintage 625 owners have had zero problems.

The current 625s are just fine, and if you're already set up to reload .45, you're gonna love owning one! Don't spend the money on one of the "performance center" versions--they are not any better, not any more reliable, and not a bit more accurate. My recommendation is that you scout the gun shows for a nice used 625 (just make sure to avoid the early 625-2 "Model of 1988", which were plagued with problems--not too many of these were made, thankfully), and when you find a nice gun at a decent price, don't worry about whether it's got a hammer-mounted firing pin, or a frame-mounted firing pin. Don't worry if it's got MIM parts, or flash-chromed carbon steel parts. Just buy it, shoot it, and enjoy it.

Don't slam the cylinder open and closed a million times and you're not likely to have any problems with peening or anything else--ever. Pull trigger, gun goes bang, hole appears in target. That's it.

These guns are fine. And if somebody tells you different, they're trying to sell you something.

Mike

Edited October 4, 2005 by Carmoney

[Randy Lee]

Greetings Husker,

At this point in time, the 625 is still the best option out there for the competitive realm. A good trigger job can be done for a minimal investment in time, parts and money. Like the 1911, better parts can always be added over time to reduce the impact to the pocketbook.

Since you are already set up for .45, it does make a lot of sense. There are a variety of loads available for various disciplines.

Mike is right in that although I am not happy with the extreme performance of the Smith platform, it will provide you with untold enjoyment. There are many thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of these guns floating around and only a small percentage of those will show problems that have been discussed in other threads. Some of what I wrote was aimed at owner awareness in regards to the proper care and feeding of the Smith 625. With proper education, you can increase the service life of your gun.

For the sake of perspective, please remember that I see hundreds of revolvers per year, so the patterns of failure emerge and I become acutely aware of why they occur. The project gun is essentially my way of designing a gun which is intended to operate for an extended time on the edge of the pre-existing envelope-the intent being to create a new gun for a NEW performance envelope.

Good luck and enjoy!

Randy

Edited October 4, 2005 by Randy Lee

[Carmoney]

Thanks, Randy.

Husker, if you have the luxury of handling multiple 625s, get the one with the smoothest action from the box. For competition stuff, installing a spring kit can get you started (the stock actions on all S&Ws are unnecessarily heavy). Then, if you want to play the revolver game long-term, I highly recommend you invest in an Apex action job. Randy's action work is expensive, but when you experience it you will understand why several of the top revolver shooters in the country are convinced it's well worth the money.

There are some great revolver shooters in Colorado--where are you located??

Mike

[minnesota1]

Husker,

I love my 625's but if you are getting this for casual shooting/steel you might want to consider other options. If you are going to shoot steel the 6 shot 625 might not be your best bet. I used to use a 686 plus, 7 shot, and it was great and economical. I could shoot steel or plink with it. It has a 6" barrel. Obviously, there is the 627 as well but that is a little more expensive. Give the 686 plus a look, it's a good gun. I can't remember if it came cut for moon clips or if I had someone do that for me. Good luck.

Bob

[10mmdave]

}slight thread drift{

(just make sure to avoid the early 625-2 "Model of 1988", which were plagued with problems--not too many of these were made, thankfully),

Mike

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey Mike, I just picked up one of those 625 jobby's, small lettering on the side

says "Model of 1988", don't know if it's one of those early jobs.

(you have a serial number range for the "iffy" ones ?)

It has the best stock trigger I have ever felt on a smith.

AND it has the small cylinder notches I mentioned in the 625E thread

Hope I got good one, only had time to put a few rnds thru it but it shoots nice.

(and here I thought you've been shooting a 25-2 in IPSC this year )

Any ways, Husker, you opened this thread asking about a revo for casual/steel

shooting, the 45 isn't the best steel load around, you need to load light and there

are not a lot of light weight bullet suppliers out there.

If you went with a 686 or GP100 you could use cheaper, lighter 38 spcl ammo.

Yes if you want to reload for it then you'd need a conversion (no idea what

reloader your using, I assume it's Blue ) but you would have a much larger

choice of components to load for all the games.

38 Short Colt, 38 Special for steel or ICORE games, 357 mag for Bowling Pins

(Hey !! ya never know, they could come back !) Heck with the right bullets and

loads you could shoot revo class IPSC !!

If you want to stay with 45 then as the others have said, go with the 625 or older

25-2 from the gun show circuit. If your leery of buying used then a box stock

brand spanking new 625 comes with a pretty good warranty !

Good luck with whatever you buy, cause if you stick with it you'll be buying

another one of some type later

[Carlos]

I would not consider anything but a 625; maybe its just me. I shoot ICORE, USPSA and the occasional steel/pins match. I think its the only way to go especially since you wrote:

1) You are short on coin and

2) You are set up for .45 ACP already (saves coin).

Must haves? Very few:

-Federal primers

-DIY chamfer cylinder

-holster. I see little to no benefit from my race holster. Mine was free but the $$ they cost are mostly wasted IMHO.

If you must have a lighter trigger (and it does help), just drop in the Wolf reduced spring kit w/ the "power rib" mainspring and run in the screw all the way. Then shoot. And dry fire. No need to complicate things.

Regards, C

[Carmoney]

Dave, if your 625-2 has a nice action, maybe it's been worked on. When the floating hand is replaced, they're usually fine. Biggest problem you might have is that the chambers on the 625-2s tend to be tight and sticky. Back in the day, everybody re-reamed the chambers to solve that problem--it was part of the standard "625 package" back then. When those things are done, the guns are just fine.

These problems were supposedly resolved with the 625-3 upgrade, although I have heard of a few 625-3s that still had the floating hand.

[Jerry V]

Hey Husker,

You've already been given real good advice on the above revolvers....isn't this place great

You mentioned "casual shooting & steel matches", if that means you don't plan on doing IPSC, you might look at the 620. I started out doing steel with a 686+, but when I used my 66 I found I could transistion a bit quicker between plates, fiqured this was due to the half-lug barrel. Liked the 7 shots of the 686+ & the half lug barrel of the 66, so when Walt offered his 620 in trade for my 66 I thought "Cool, I have my steel gun". I bobbed the hammer, DAO, smoothed out the action & springs, got to try it out this last Sunday and did my best steel match ever

It does have the 2 piece barrel, which many haven't welcomed yet, but I've found it just as accurate as my 686. It's not going to be as comfortable to shoot magnums in as the 686 due to the half-lug barrel, so that's one thing to keep in mind.

Good luck in your search and take your time,

-- Jerry

[Patrick Sweeney]

Since you're set up for reloading the .45, ignore other calibers. For light loads use the Berry 185 hollowbase roundnose bullets. A 185 at 750 fps is a 138PF, plenty light enogh for steel.

[Carmoney]

You can also get a variety of .45 bullets in the 152-155 gr. range. These are excellent for steel shooting, when there is no power factor required.

(Patrick will remember when these were "state of the art" for steel and IPSC shooting.....)

[Keith]

The last steel match I shot with my 4" 625 I just used my IPSC loads. 230 ball at about 172 power factor.

Ok, so I'm just plain lazy and didn't feel like making a new batch of rounds just for steel.

[Patrick Sweeney]

Yes, Mike, and I remember the transition from bronze to iron, in edged weapons, too.

[10mmdave]

Dave, if your 625-2 has a nice action, maybe it's been worked on.  When the floating hand is replaced, they're usually fine.  Biggest problem you might have is that the chambers on the 625-2s tend to be tight and sticky.  Back in the day, everybody re-reamed the chambers to solve that problem--it was part of the standard "625 package" back then.  When those things are done, the guns are just fine. 

These problems were supposedly resolved with the 625-3 upgrade, although I have heard of a few 625-3s that still had the floating hand.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Funny thing, I opened up the sideplate when I got it cause it was dirty

No polishing marks on trigger surfaces, very little wear on trigger contact surfaces

(ya know, where things rub together) and it has the floating hand

I'll have to check the model number, I don't know if it's a -2 or -3 or a -0 for that

matter.

I do think the chambers are on the tight side, but with no chamfer yet we'll see.

[Carmoney]

If your action feels right, the floating hand should not be a problem. Many of these guns have a bad trigger pull because of that hand, but obviously not all of them will exhibit that problem.

If your gun says "Model of 1988" roll-marked on the barrel, it's a 625-2.

There never was a 625 or 625-1. From 625-3 on up, they're marked "Model of 1989".

If the moonclips don't want to drop in right (especially when the gun gets a little dirty), you'll need to ream the chambers. Then it should be fine.

[10mmdave]

If your action feels right, the floating hand should not be a problem.  Many of these guns have a bad trigger pull because of that hand, but obviously not all of them will exhibit that problem.

If your gun says "Model of 1988" roll-marked on the barrel, it's a 625-2.

There never was a 625 or 625-1.  From 625-3 on up, they're marked "Model of 1989". 

If the moonclips don't want to drop in right (especially when the gun gets a little dirty), you'll need to ream the chambers.  Then it should be fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Oh jeez....1988 or 1989.....the text is so small I don't know if I can tell

(just kidding)

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

If your action feels right, the floating hand should not be a problem.  Many of these guns have a bad trigger pull because of that hand, but obviously not all of them will exhibit that problem.

If your gun says "Model of 1988" roll-marked on the barrel, it's a 625-2.

There never was a 625 or 625-1.  From 625-3 on up, they're marked "Model of 1989". 

If the moonclips don't want to drop in right (especially when the gun gets a little dirty), you'll need to ream the chambers.  Then it should be fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Oh jeez....1988 or 1989.....the text is so small I don't know if I can tell

(just kidding)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you have any problem with that flaoting hand, I have a spare trigger/hand assembly. I took mine out of my 625-3 and installed a standard trigger and hand.

All you will have to do is drive over the bridge

[10mmdave]

If you have any problem with that flaoting hand, I have a spare trigger/hand assembly.  I took mine out of my 625-3 and installed a standard trigger and hand.

All you will have to do is drive over the bridge

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'd spend more in gas back and forth over the bridge than I would buying the

whole setup from Brownells or S&W

Hey R_G_S, you shooting Harvard this weekend ?

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

I'd spend more in gas back and forth over the bridge than I would buying the

whole setup from Brownells or S&W 

Hey R_G_S, you shooting Harvard this weekend ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not this week. Shot in CT last weekend and over used my gas allotment.

Next time off Cape will be 10-29 for Steel at Pioneer and 10-30 Rifle at Harvard.

I will throw the trigger into my bag so if we ever meet I will have it for you.

Regards,

Edited for fat finger typing error

Edited October 4, 2005 by Round_Gun_Shooter

[Husker95]

Thanks for the feedback guys! That is exactly the assurance that i was a looking for. I will probably go for the 625. Right now I have a good 1911 (springfield loaded) and a 586 with a trigger job that I really love. So, the gap that I have is for a 45 acp revo; and now i will look to fill it. Speaking of the 586, just my take, but why the he(( did S&W quit making blued guns? I love the looks of a blued smith. Just my .02, but I think they feel smoother too.

Husker

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Speaking of the 586, just my take, but why the he(( did S&W quit making blued guns?  I love the looks of a blued smith.  Just my .02, but I think they feel smoother too.

Husker

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hazardous waste from the bluing process, and the standardization of all stainless parts and frames. Mainly a cost cutting move.

regards,

[10mmdave]

Not this week.  Shot in CT last weekend and over used my gas allotment.

Next time off Cape will be 10-29 for Steel at Pioneer and 10-30 Rifle at Harvard.

I will throw the trigger into my bag so if we ever meet I will have it for you.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What steel shoot @ Pioneer , they still doing SC steel ??

Hmmmm, 29th's a Saturday, gimme details.

And Carmoney, 45 revo is a 1988 version, except the last 8 looks kinda double

struck like they couldn't make up their mind between an 8 or a 9

[Carmoney]

[And Carmoney, 45 revo is a 1988 version, except the last 8 looks kinda double

struck like they couldn't make up their mind between an 8 or a 9 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Cool, maybe it's a collectible rarity, like one of those buffalo nickels where the buffalo only has three legs.....

[10mmdave]

Cool, maybe it's a collectible rarity, like one of those buffalo nickels where the buffalo only has three legs..... 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just what I was thunking

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

What steel shoot @ Pioneer  , they still doing SC steel ??

Hmmmm, 29th's a Saturday, gimme details.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

PIONEER STEEL CHALLENGE-DON'T BEAT ME TOO BAD PLEASE