Clark\para Or Wilson\nowlin Cut?

[Sam]

I recently bought an STI frame from a buddy. It's brand new and un-ramped. And I want to build a heavy barrelled .40 SW. I've never done a frame ramp cut, but I ain't skeered.

What are the advantages-disadvantages of each design? And which would be easier for a first-timer to get right?

Thanks! -Sam

[DBChaffin]

Hey Sam, I'm not a gunsmith so I ought to be the perfect person to answer this, right? As Skynyrd said though, "I know a little", so I'm gonna chime in and let others correct me.

First off, the Clark/Para is easier to cut. It's done in one setup instead of two. I've been told that by gunsmiths, and there is agreement found here.

I have heard the Wilson/Nowlin is easier to "adjust" if it is cut incorrectly, but hey, I figure just take the time to do the first one right and there is no need to adjust!

The Clark/Para design has more "meat" on the barrel feet, and I have heard/read/been told they are stronger and "more forgiving" of barrels that are not fit exactly right. Again, do it right and not an issue. Interestingly enough, Schuemann says that the barrel needs to have one more radius, making it the Clark/Para/Lissner (Australian gunsmith that came up with the idea) design. With this setup, he claims that you are highly unlikely to shear the bottom lugs and claims he has seen this improvement by the number of barrels returned with sheared lugs. I have read on here somewhere that at least one of the manufacturers of the tungsten sleeved barrels only offers their barrels with the Clark/Para lug because the extra heavy barrel needs the extra strength for support.

All that being said, I am obviously a Clark/Para fan and would think it would be the best one for you for the simpler cut and because you wouldn't have to get the special deep cutter (see link above). My local gunsmith prefers them, for whatever that's worth.

Good luck "making the cut" so to speak, and I hope that was of some help. Don't forget to let us know how it goes and what you learned about it.

Bryant

[Sam]

I'm not a gunsmith either Bryant! Thanks for your advice.

I was definately leaning toward the C\P cut because I already have the endmill that I need to do it. And it just looks a lot easier. I've been inspecting a nearly new Para that a friend owns. I can see the way the barrel feet contact almost all the way around the stopping surface. It looks like it will last a long time. I'm also thinking about a tungsten sleeve, so that part is very good to know too.

Mainly, I can't figure out what the W\N strong points are. But I would be willing to buy the extra cutter and do the extra work if there was ample justification to do so.

Thanks Bro. I hope things are going well for you and that the weather is giving you some peace down there.

[GuildSF4]

The Para/Clark cut is an easier one to make. I don't recall the quoted advantages of the Nowlin/Wilson cut. Can say in my experience if they are fit correctly either one should last the life of the pistol. Take the time necessary to do it right, measure twice, double and triple check your setup cut once.

[spd522]

I've shot thousands of rounds through guns cut for both types of barrels and never had a problem with either. The only barrel I ever broke the lug on was a non-ramped 45 ACP barrel.

Craig

[benny hill]

On the c/p cut in the frame, cut it to .590 so you can adjust the cut back after barrel fit for perfect unlocking.

[Harmon]

seems like the wilson/nowlin ramped guns make a "clunk" noise when the barrels lower feet contact the frame.

ive never heard a C/P gun do that.

Harmon

[TMC]

Will Schueman has an article on his site concering the two. Check it out. He prefers the Calrk/Para.

[Joe D]

Makes you wonder though that both Kimber and Springfield use the N/W cut for their production guns.