625 Cylinder Chamfer

[slflr]

I want to chamfer the cylinder on my 625 and want to know where the line is between enough and too much. To what depth from the back of the cylinder to the shoulder of a 45 degree chamfer cut is enough? What is the limit?

Thanks,

Bob

[hopalong]

Randy Lee ?????????

I have my own theory on chamfering cylinders but will defer to the professional to see what he says.

HOP

[Randy Lee]

Hello,

I believe using a 45 degree chamfer cutter from Brownells works well provided the cutter does not remove metal from the timing ratchets on the extractor star. I recently replaced an extractor assembly because a customer's cylinder was cut with an oversized chamfer tool. The metal on the legs of the extractor are pretty thin and can break if a chamfer is cut too deep and/or rounded by dremeling.

My preferred method is to use a large diameter ball endmill and cut into the charge hole at an angle so that the majority of the metal removed is located in the thickest part of the cylinder in between the charge holes. Each charge hole looks like the throat job on a .45acp 1911. The "throat job" starts at the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions on the individual charge holes and only affects the outer portion of the extractor legs. The same can be done with a Dremel type tool with a diamond burr.

My theory is that when you drop a moonclip into the cylinder, the greatest probability is that the bullet nose will strike somewhere between 10 and 2 o'clock positions. Rarely will the nose hit the 12, 1 or 11 o'clock positions on all six charge holes. There are several issues that have come up with star legs breaking off at the worst possible moments. One reason is overchamfering the star itself. Slight beveling of the star in areas where there are sharp edges is okay, but beyond that seems unnecessary. This was done to the prototype 625-E cylinder and I suggested it to Jim at the Performance Center for use in the 6.5" 625 project.

Hope this is helpful,

Randy

[10mmdave]

Sounds interesting

How's about a pic if possible ?

[Randy Lee]

Pics to follow tomorrow...

[rwmagnus]

slflr, interesting post. I've seen the trend swing 360 degrees from talking to and seeing what others are using. Couple years ago it was the grande champher job then it went to more of just breaking the edge and seems like we are back to the aggressive cutting again.

I prefer more of a moderate champhering job myself. Excess champhering is just harder on the moonclips as there is less area to support the case.

I don't have a good close up capability with my camera but the attached image should help.

Edited September 23, 2005 by rwmagnus

[Carmoney]

That looks about like mine.

[Randy Lee]

Here's a jpg of what I did on the Ti cylinder. Note- The Ti cylinder and star were pre chamfered by the factory and the star in the photo is NOT the one that matches the Ti cylinder( I haven't had time to fit the new star to the gun). The extractor star which was sent with the test cylinder matches the flaring cut(brighter area in the photo).

Essentially I have compound angles- the first provided by the factory(45 degree chamfer can be seen at the 12:00 position of the chamber) and the angled cut I discussed earlier. This method does not affect the integrity of the star, nor the cylinder itself. I had the lawyers at Smith in mind when I did this.

Thank you to Tika Phipps for the photo!

Edited September 23, 2005 by Randy Lee

[slflr]

Thanks for the help. After removing the ejector, I have cut charge holes to a depth of about 20-30 thou and broken the new edges with a dremmel and some polishing compound. I will work on blending the ejector star into the newly chamfered cylinder with a file and just break the sharp edges of the star adjacent to the ratchet.

Thanks,

Bob

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Thanks for the help. After removing the ejector, I have cut charge holes to a depth of about 20-30 thou and broken the new edges with a dremmel and some polishing compound. I will work on blending the ejector star into the newly chamfered cylinder with a file and just break the sharp edges of the star adjacent to the  ratchet.

Thanks,

Bob

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