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Trigger Creep


jschweg

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I have a 9mm Trojan that has developed what I think would be considered some trigger creep.

 

It's hard to explain, but after the take up there is a "crunchy" feeling along with a little click before the trigger breaks.

 

This gun has never had any trigger work, but I don't remember it being this bad at the end of last season in comparison with now.

 

I was just wondering what this might be and how I might be able to clean this up.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

 

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A few things like round count, maintenance practices and FCG quality come into play here. 

 

Tear the gun down completely and clean. After cleaning inspect the parts (sear face and hammer hooks). If both look square with no marring, re-assemble the bottom end minus the grip and thumb safeties. 

 

Cock the hammer and pull the trigger while looking at the engagement between the disconnector and sear and then sear and hammer. You should be able to determine where your “creep” is coming from. If the disconnector is sliding on the sear leg before moving the sear and dropping the hammer you need to add tension on the middle leg of your sear spring.

 

If the sear face is moving on the hammer hooks at all without dropping the hammer,  you will have to decide if you can live with the creep or not. Most factory STI trigger jobs have a small amount of creep. If you decide that you can’t live with it you have a couple of options. You can buy hammer and sear jigs and cut your factory parts (not recommended as they won’t last long) or purchase new hammer, sear and disconnector (I recommend EGW) and cut them before installing. The easiest and cheapest way to get an awesome trigger is to buy a tuned FCG from Brazos. You can call Bob and he’ll get you set up with a “drop in” trigger for about $180. 

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A few things like round count, maintenance practices and FCG quality come into play here. 
 
Tear the gun down completely and clean. After cleaning inspect the parts (sear face and hammer hooks). If both look square with no marring, re-assemble the bottom end minus the grip and thumb safeties. 
 
Cock the hammer and pull the trigger while looking at the engagement between the disconnector and sear and then sear and hammer. You should be able to determine where your “creep” is coming from. If the disconnector is sliding on the sear leg before moving the sear and dropping the hammer you need to add tension on the middle leg of your sear spring.
 
If the sear face is moving on the hammer hooks at all without dropping the hammer,  you will have to decide if you can live with the creep or not. Most factory STI trigger jobs have a small amount of creep. If you decide that you can’t live with it you have a couple of options. You can buy hammer and sear jigs and cut your factory parts (not recommended as they won’t last long) or purchase new hammer, sear and disconnector (I recommend EGW) and cut them before installing. The easiest and cheapest way to get an awesome trigger is to buy a tuned FCG from Brazos. You can call Bob and he’ll get you set up with a “drop in” trigger for about $180. 
I think a full detail strip is in order, I've been procrastinating doing this since I've never completely disassembled a 1911 before, but I guess that's what YouTube is for :) There are about 10k through the gun.

This gun is actually from Brazos, but it's just a factory gun that I snatched up before the prices on the Trojan went up. I should have had Bob do the trigger when I bought it.

The Brazos drop in triggers you mention, I assume that they need some amount of fitting or are they really that simple?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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12 minutes ago, jschweg said:

I think a full detail strip is in order, I've been procrastinating doing this since I've never completely disassembled a 1911 before, but I guess that's what YouTube is for :) There are about 10k through the gun.

This gun is actually from Brazos, but it's just a factory gun that I snatched up before the prices on the Trojan went up. I should have had Bob do the trigger when I bought it.

The Brazos drop in triggers you mention, I assume that they need some amount of fitting or are they really that simple?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Their trigger are essentially drop in. They come with a sear, hammer, main spring and sear spring. The sear hand hammer have already been worked by Bob so they’re good to go. I would call and talk to him to make sure you get the right main spring for your caliber. The only tweaking to may “need” to do would be on the sear spring. Weight of take-up, weight of pull and reset strength are all set by the sear spring and are quite subjective. 

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5 hours ago, jschweg said:

I think a full detail strip is in order, I've been procrastinating doing this since I've never completely disassembled a 1911 before, but I guess that's what YouTube is for :) There are about 10k through the gun.

This gun is actually from Brazos, but it's just a factory gun that I snatched up before the prices on the Trojan went up. I should have had Bob do the trigger when I bought it.

The Brazos drop in triggers you mention, I assume that they need some amount of fitting or are they really that simple?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

It’s really that simple. I just bought one, they’re 154 bucks and it dropped right it. The break is very crisp, strong reset, no overtravel. Mine breaks at 1.5lbs, I did nothing but dropped it in. You can bend the  sear spring a bit more of you want it a little heavier. I read a ton of reviews before and most people get around a 2-2.5lb break out of the box. I guess I got extra lucky, I like them at 1.5. 

 

Some people have to do a little fitting to the lug on the thumb safety, but again I didn’t. Seems like half the people who buy it have to do it, the other half don’t. It’s a great buy, soon as I have some more extra money I’ll buy a second for my limited  gun.

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