Locking Block Problem

[SCulp]

I just took my glock 35 apart for cleaning and when I took the locking block out, I noticed that it was battered badly on the bottom side toward the front. I recently loaded up some shells that were max loads with tight group and the oal was a little to short and caused some pretty hot shells (approx 300). Didn't realize they were to short, anyway the part of the locking block that goes down into the frame on the front edge closest to the barrel is the part that is damaged. I know this shouldn't be like this. Anyone seen anything like this before.

SCulp

[Flexmoney]

Got any pictures?

If you were running hot enough to damage the locking block, then you had better go over the gun with an eagle eye.

Locking blocks aren't very expensive. Probably shuld change it out, at least.

[SCulp]

Flex,

I was trying to load up a little hotter for some recoil management. Ive been shooting some production loads in the 35 and trying to get use to the heavier recoil again. Anyway, the part of the block that goes into the frame is the part damaged. I didn't know there was a metal piece under it in the frame. That appears to be what caused the damage the 2 metal pieces hitting each other. Have you ever seen or heard of this before. I have shot the about 300 more major loads since the real hot ones and it shot without problem and still accurate.

This is about at 4yr old 35 3 pin with the older locking block. What part # should I get or should I just tell them the gun is older when ordering.

[eric nielsen]

They cost $24 from Glockmeister.com, here's a link:

LINK

You can look at the pictures and pick the right kind. Most likely the 'new' style which has been around since the G22, and for all Glocks since early 2002.

Get the competition trigger spring while you're on there - you'll be glad you did.

T-spring link

[Flexmoney]

SCulp,

I am having a hard time figuring out how you got the damage on the botom of the locking block.

To tell you the truth, your post makes me a little nervous.

And, I don't think I would be shooting those hot rounds that you mentioned. (Are they all gone?)

[fishnfst]

There shouldn't be another metal piece under your locking block... Are you sure you didn't crack your locking block? The locking block should be the only metal piece in that area... Do you have any pics.... The part that goes into the frame does not contact anything but plastic.. The top of the locking block could contact the slide and will contact the underlug on the barrel.

[SCulp]

I didn't think there was anything metal underneath the locking block either, but when I pulled the block out on the front bottom edge which would be closest to the muzzle end there is a metal reinfrocement that is in the frame of the gun underneath the front edge of the block. You can see where the metal had been messed up on the block and on the piece im trying to tell you about. I don't have any pics and this probably doesn't make any since. I think that shooting those shells and the barrel coming back to hard hitting the block harder caused the wear on the bottom like this. I have had this gun for 4 or 5 yrs it has been shot alot. I am wondering if replacing the block will do anygood since the piece underneath it is damaged also. I .guess a heavier recoil spring would have helped I was shooting a ISMI 15. They say that a glock doesn't batter the frame, so I guess it has battered the block or the bottom of it.

[Flexmoney]

I think you (likely) blew your gun up with those loads.

[SCulp]

I think you (likely) blew your gun up with those loads.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The gun is still shooting good. I have blown a glock up before along time ago using someone else's reloads, double charged round blew out at the 6 O'clock position. Broke the mag release and blew the mag out the bottom. I let a L E armorer look at the gun and it had cracks on both sides of the chamber. Sent it to glock and replaced the barrel.

I have a KKM barrel right now and haven't found any other problems with the gun. I guess I will replace the locking block and see how it does.

Do yo think it is possible that this damage is due to having a light spring and when the barrel link was hitting the block it was causing it to push into the frame. Thats all I can figure. Wish I could send some pics to show the damage.

[Nik Habicht]

Kyle,

I seem to remember reading somewhere, that Glock redesigned the frame to provide for metal to metal contact during the G31 design process ---- because they found that the .357Sig battered the crap out of the polymer frame. AAMOF, I don't think Glock will sell you a .357 barrel for your .40, without asking you to provide a serial number, so they can be sure you have one of the metal reinforced frames......

Get thee to a gunshop?

[driver8M3]

send it back to glock, or take it to a gssf match (if you have one nearby soon) and have the armorer take a look at it.