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Stock 2 finished


wbkr68

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I just finished my stock 2 tonight. I installed a 10 lb recoil spring, 13 lb hammerspring, eg extended firing pin, extreme one piece sear, bolo interrupter, daweson front sight, extreme titan hammer, cajun reduced power trigger spring. I polished alot on it, and had to fit the sear so the saftey would engage. Im getting 8lb double and 3.1 single. The only problem I have had is when I first started dry firing, the hammer wouldnt always drop on the reset on the first pull. It did it alot at first, but after a few hundred dryfires it seems to have stopped. Is this a break in issue? Thanks everyone for your posts and instructions!

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

 

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Good job!

But you aren't "finished" .  lol, nobody ever is finished.

The bolo not resetting is a fitting issue. Dry firing will "fit" it by polishing the rough edge. There are instructions at PD on how to fit if it stays a problem. I would ONLY polish those areas as you are very very close.

 

Your DA/SA is pretty high for a PD 13 hammer spring. That indicates you polishing is incomplete. pins, holes, and sliding surfaces. DA dry fire another 500 , inspect them, polish as indicated. And ENJOY.

 

 

 

 

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I agree with everything johnbu said.

 

I was originally at 8+ pounds with a fourteen pound patriot hammer spring.

 

Went into the gun twice more after shooting a few hundred rounds and really really slicked up the spots where I could see wear. Now my heaviest hammer spring (16.6lb EGD Medium) has me at 6.75lbs, and that same 14 pounder tests right around 5.8 lbs.

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Make sure you polish the pins and their holes like crazy. 

 

I found what really helps is to remove pieces slowly after stripping the slide off and looking hard at what makes contact. I think taking the gun down and removing all oil and grease from the parts, then slowly installing one component at a time looking for where it contacts others is a huge help.

 

Initially I didn't polish the underside of the sear cage at all, for example. The trigger bar rides along the bottom it under upward pressure from the plunger.

 

You'll find things you missed or which were smoothed, but are not slick as glass. When you first begin to work on these guns, you just polish everything fairly quickly.

 

 After you learn how they work you'll polish the places that matter. Deeply.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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8 minutes ago, wbkr68 said:

Okay thank you! Ive been using flitz. Is that good enough? Should I use a more abrasive compound first?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

dont use an abrasive compound, your not trying to remove material just smooth it out. As mentioned above please see the product page on our website for fitting instructions on the BOLO, or feel free to call the shop if you need additional help......

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The difference between a properly functioning BOLO and a ruined one is perhaps a few passes with a file at most - just a thousandth or two. Be very careful if you decide to adjust it in any way, as @PatriotDefense said.

 

On the subject of polishing? I used Flitz on my first pass through the gun. At the suggestion of @ryridesmotox I switched to Blue Magic from the auto parts store, and it does indeed give you a fully polished surface much more quickly.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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23 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

The difference between a properly functioning BOLO and a ruined one is perhaps a few passes with a file at most - just a thousandth or two. Be very careful if you decide to adjust it in any way, as @PatriotDefense said.

 

On the subject of polishing? I used Flitz on my first pass through the gun. At the suggestion of @ryridesmotox I switched to Blue Magic from the auto parts store, and it does indeed give you a fully polished surface much more quickly.

This is all really good advise from Memphis....

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