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Who Does Trigger Work?


Jeremiah

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I have a S&W stainless 1911 that I would like to turn into a competition only gun. I'd like to have a lighter trigger, like say around 2.5#, without any creep. I'm looking at more of a limited gun than an open gun.

What gunsmiths should I be looking into? What should I expect to pay for a good quality trigger job? I already have one quote from a very knowledgable smith for about $300, but this include replacing everything in the gun that is MIM and it also includes shipping. Is this about what everyone is going to charge? What about turn around time?

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks.

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Bet you have some one local that can do a great 2.5 lb, a lot cheaper. I will warn you a whole lot of "gunsmiths" are hacks. Ask around at your competitions, I have seen some awful advice there sometimes also. As been said before we wear guns and triggers out :) Sounds a just a little high to me but if it includes a good quality name brand hammer/sear/disconnect/ambi safety/pins etc might be fine price. Local guy can retune or repair easier.

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Sounds expensive, and you don't really need to replace any of your MIM parts. You can lighten the pull some just by dropping in a lighter mainspring. If the trigger is otherwise good, then just do that.

I would expect to pay less than $100 for just a trigger job.

DD

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I'm in Wilmington, Ohio, about an hour from Cincinnati and an hour from Columbus.

I'd like to just buy a sear jig and do it myself. Which jig do you guys recommend?

I know about the primary angle and the secondary angle on the sear face, and to shorten up the hammer hooks to about .020, but what else is involved in a 2.5# trigger job?

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I'm in Wilmington, Ohio, about an hour from Cincinnati and an hour from Columbus. 

I'd like to just buy a sear jig and do it myself.  Which jig do you guys recommend? 

I know about the primary angle and the secondary angle on the sear face, and to shorten up the hammer hooks to about .020, but what else is involved in a 2.5# trigger job?

A lot... Do not change the angles, hammer hooks should by .020", polish all mating surfaces to mirror finish. (Should also include sides of hammer, disconnector where it meets slide, sear spring and trigger bow), you can use a lighter mainspring (personnal preference), and adjust sear spring to the weight you want.

Needs to be safety tested to make sure it won't follow (start by trying to walk it off with side to side pressure, then take to a range and test with one round then two...) This is a brief description, and I do not accept liability for your use of this information.

PS: Brownells has severla sear jigs you can read about and see what you prefer. I use Wilson and Power Custom jigs.

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