Kimberkid Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I have 2 Glock 34s that have both been very reliable for many years and many many 1000s of rounds. Not long ago they both decided to take a dive at the same time, my attempts to fix them have shown no improvement and I'm left here confused about what to pursue next. Both guns had home triggers done years ago and stayed around a 2Lb pull forever. Gun A started getting light strikes on Winchester primers every other round or so. Most of them would ignite if hit a 2nd time. I never had an issue with Win primers before, and shot a bunch of reloads with Win primers and plenty of WWB over the years and it never had an issue. I changed out the reduced power springs for full power springs and it showed zero improvement. I then swapped all the internal parts that I could think of including the firing pin safety and spring, firing pin and spring, spacer sleeve and channel liner, trigger, trigger spring and trigger bar, and connector. I can't think of anything else to replace and it is acting exactly like it has the whole time, still only sets off maybe 50%. Gun B started to double on rare occasion and then double and triple regularly. So I again replaced all the exact same internals that I did for Gun A. It worked fine for 1 magazine and then on the second magazine it became a single shot, with the slide locking back after every round fired, regardless of the fact that it still had rounds in the magazine. Im definitely not a gunsmith, but I had thought that this would have been a straightforward fix and it is clearly not. Does anyone have any suggestions, because I'm all out of ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 If you are reloading and your primers go off on a second strike then that is probably more of a high primer issue. Seat your primers deeper/fully seated. on the other when you reassembled the pistol did you put the trigger pin and slide stop in first or the locking block pin in first then the trigger pin/ slide stop? If you put the trigger pin/slide stop in first then the locking block pin then there is a chance the spring for the slide stop is above the locking block pin. Cause it to not be pushed down. Or it could be your bullet profile is hitting the internal lip of the slide stop or your hand is during firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberkid Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 I wondered about the high primer issue, but it does the same with factory ammo also. I dont recall which pin I put in first, but I will disassemble and reassemble in the order you suggest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangeHooligan Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Kimberkid, Is the striker channel in Gun A clean and dry all the way up to the breech face? Fouling and residue, as well as lube may be preventing the firing pin to travel as intended. For Gun B, perhaps the engagement of the firing pin tang and trigger bar/cruciform is not sufficient for safe reset, causing doubling/tripling etc. Could the pretravel/overtravel adjustments need tuning? RH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) You don't say what parts were installed during your attempts to fix... You have reverted both guns completely back to factory? If not, don't put new aftermarket parts in to replace the old ones. Put factory ones in entirely: go back to a totally stock gun and introduce you're triggerwidgets one at a time. 1911s and many other guns need tuned to work flawlessly. Glocks are the other way around. They work flawlessly until someone tunes them. Edited February 4, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberkid Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Everything is clean and dry, striker channel is fully inserted, I ended up ordering the little tool, as initially I didnt realize that the striker channels were better left alone and I was already in too deep. Both guns got new firing pins and firing pin springs, spacer sleeves, channel liners, firing pin safeties and springs, trigger assemblies with springs, trigger bars and connectors. They both have reduced power (4lb) firing pin springs and extra power(6 lbs) trigger springs. The only aftermarket parts installed were the lightened firing pins. I did also try Gun A with full power factory springs and a factory firing pin to be sure those didnt contribute to the light strikes and there was zero difference between the lightened set of springs and firing pin and the total factory power and weight set. These were very good and rather light triggers than ran beautifully for roughly 100k rounds with reduced power springs and a polish job, and then now they seem like they refuse to ever work again, this is why I'm so confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Recoil spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitw Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Two things I have run across in high round count Glocks causing light strikes after running fine for a long time. 1) Firing pin (striker) tip erosion 2) Aftermarket lighter recoil spring taking a set over time and gun not going fully into battery, or pulling the trigger is actually pulling the gun out of battery ever so slightly. In both guns, go back to 100% OEM new fire, fire control, and springs and then work back towards the custom parts one at a time. Sounds like in gun A you might have done this, but you didn't mention the recoil spring specifically. Edited February 4, 2017 by sitw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 His #2 is what I was referring to with my recoil spring question. IE what spring system and weight are you running. Of course my production gun as a 10# spring in it that I have not changed in 3 seasons and it still functions with my trigger system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberkid Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 sorry i misunderstood your question, the recoil spring in gun B is totally stock as it was originally made. Gun A is a 15lb ismi spring on some aftermarket rod that is quite old and probably due to be replaced. Im not sure why but it never occurred to me to put a stock one in and try it, Ill be doing that soon. sitw may have hit the nail, this morning while looking them over, i noticed that when pulling the trigger on Gun B, the slide comes very slightly out of battery and then back into battery when the trigger breaks. I never noticed it til now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitw Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 One thing to keep in mind when tuning any gun by swapping springs. The variance on springs is pretty large. Same exact spring from same manufacturer easily is +/- 1lb so any spring weight suggested or mentioned is the starting point. Although, the 15lb ISMI should be enough to take the gun fully into battery even after a lot of use, I stress should. Easy test. Clear the gun, point it straight up, rack the slide and let it go, pull the trigger and hold it. Keep holding the trigger, pull the slide back, and as slowly as possible while holding on to the slide, ease it forward while not letting go of the trigger. If it stops before the gun goes fully into batter or hesitates and clunks into battery after you let go of the slide, you are on the ragged edge of recoil spring and you will likely get light strikes. If you go to tune the recoil spring do not swap striker springs at the same time, keep the same striker spring. These two springs work against each other for the gun going into battery and changing both without thinking which does what will have you going in circles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 While what he said has value it isn't always a positive indication of failure. Again my G34 has a 10lb Wolff spring that is as old can be and works fine. BUT while you are trying to diagnose your issue it is one place not to over look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dskinsler83 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Also be certain that the striker spring coil end is not splitting your spring cups while in the channel. You can also test fire without your safety plunger in the pistol to be sure that isn't one of the issues. To much over travel reduction keeps the trigger bar from being able to completely depress the plunger. Check your safety plunger edges for any chewing marks and your strikers for wear in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberkid Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Thanks guys, I'll be checking all this and post what I find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPI Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Had my 2 Glock triggers reworked my Glock Armorer in FWB. Major improvement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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