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Need Suggestions For Polishing Glock Internals


Tito

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I'm looking at Brownells #56 page 109 Ceramic stone

and page 189 "tapered cone" felt bob

and page 189 No.555 polish (white).

Would this work o.k.?

Yes, though the ceramic stone will remove metal pretty quickly, which isn't necessarilly desired. However, if you're considering stoning trigger parts, the amount of metal to be removed should be obvious. Otherwise, be prepared to replace some parts as you learn. Not a big deal really as most parts are cheap. Just be prepared for doubles or full-auto when testing.

I stoned everything in mine using a soft, then hard Arkansas stone. Afterwards, I polished everything with the dremel using a felt bob and white rouge. The results are quite acceptable.

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Brownells sells fine grit polishing sticks, rouge in a rubber compound. I used those, in 400 and 600 grit size, to polish my Glock internals. Kind of slow compared to any powered tool like a Dremel, but you can be as cautious as possible about excessive metal removal. Worked great for me.

Kevin C.

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  • 1 month later...

Since I know this subject is one that is covered extensively, the real addition or suggestion I wanted to make is the Dremel #425 wheel by hand previous to polishing with a felt wheel using flitz or your favorite polish. I think this is something that should be given some close consideration to those that tinker with the glocks.. It is so extra fine that it can not do damage or create visible cuts, yet gets the job done.... and gets in those hard to reach places... and is a little flexible.

My suggestion is:

1. Never use power to stone. Very fine or extra fine sticks by hand are all that is necessary and in most cases un-nesessary for the patient person. If you use fine, be very careful as the cuts will be deeper than necessary and you have to get them out. I think natural stones are best (like Arkansas).

2. Follow with the dremel #425 wheel by hand. This smooths the metal to a near mirror finish.

3. Follow up with a polishing wheel using power (dremel) and flitz polish to mirror finish. Do not overheat the part.

As you have heard repeatedly by other sources that I am sure are more knowledgeable than me, do not remove more material than necessary, and know the mechanics before you start.

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Having almost no patience with doing gunsmithing work on a gun that isn't supposed to need gunsmithing ;) I found that the steel brush Dremel wheel worked great--it's fast and I can't get it to remove metal, only polish what's there.

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  • 2 months later...

since i carry my g22, it got a little dirty with some surface rust on some internals,and i mean very light rust.

I cleaned and polished everything with a little cotton wheel on my dremmel with no polish.

next day at the match i had an auto-pistol (g18?)doubles and triples before i could release the trigger.

I started with a g35 and a ghost rocket and got the good fourtune of shooting with some hi-speed guys that shoot glocks.

They allways went back to technique.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tito,not to put down Brownells,but you can pick up all the polishing compound you need at your local lowes home store!

And all you need is a dremel with the felt bobs, or a dremel equivalant tool.

I use the white and the green compound sold by lowes and my dremel with a felt bob works very nicely.

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Tito,not to put down Brownells,but you can pick up all the polishing compound you need at your local lowes home store!

And all you need is a dremel with the felt bobs, or a dremel equivalant tool.

I use the white and the green compound sold by lowes and my dremel with a felt bob works very nicely.

I agree. Used Flitz and a felt bob, polished all internal moving parts. you can see the wear on the different parts. polish them to a mirror finish, and be done with it, no need to take metal off. Just asking to go full auto. Although that would be cool too. :P

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