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How is this Limited Pro setup?


Underwhere

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32 minutes ago, Underwhere said:
Ok so I'm trying to gather my parts list again.

Thanks for the help again. It's been difficult trying to get this thing perfect. 
   

One thing I have a question about is the BOLO. The BOLO is essentially a replacement for the interrupter correct? 
My Limpro does not have an interrupter anymore since it was converted to SAO. 

Neither does the CZ SP01 that was converted to SAO with the CGW parts. 

So I thought that the BOLO didn't serve a purpose once you went that route...and that it was only used in a DA/SA gun. Am I way wrong on this? 

 
 


And someone mentioned in a prior post that the limited pro already comes with a one piece sear?

Here is the SP-01 trigger travel and break. (It has no FPB)

 

 

Here is the Tanfo Limpro with the Henning flat trigger

 

 

Edited by Underwhere
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The bolo in a SA ONLY gun will provide the same zero reset crisp action that makes owners of custom 1911's jealous.

 

On your list...

No need for thr pin. Bolo comes with a special  (designed) undersized pin that is needed to give the zero reset. Use the pin that comes with it. MANDATORY.

DO NOT BUY the "long" sear, it requires extra fitting and you don't need it. A lim pro should already come with a one piece sear.

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The bolo in a SA ONLY gun will provide the same zero reset crisp action that makes owners of custom 1911's jealous.

 

On your list...

No need for thr pin. Bolo comes with a special  (designed) undersized pin that is needed to give the zero reset. Use the pin that comes with it. MANDATORY.

DO NOT BUY the "long" sear, it requires extra fitting and you don't need it. A lim pro should already come with a one piece sear.


Got it thanks for the clarity.
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What, exactly, does it mean....

"Shoot the gun"?

 

I just take them apart, polish and swap in other bits. Are you saying....there's more to them than that?

 

 

Lol

 

46 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Out of curiosity, do you expect to actually shoot this gun better due to these modifications?

 

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What, exactly, does it mean....

"Shoot the gun"?

 

I just take them apart, polish and swap in other bits. Are you saying....there's more to them than that?

 

 

Lol

 

 

I'll be completely honest. I have a newborn. It's been really hard to get out and shoot. I used to shoot (a few times a week) and compete quite a bit. (at least once a month weather permitting)

After my daughter goes down to sleep I have the night to myself so I can have fun with projects while my wife is fast asleep as well.

Having these parts and projects is my sanity whether or not I think it's going to make me any better. I just hide in the basement and swap parts and polish etc. I actually am looking for more project guns to work on.

Suggestions welcome. The Tanfoglio has been the perfect project gun. It's pretty amazing what it can turn into.

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I think it's that his homies filled his head that CZ triggers are better than Tanfo triggers. It also seems he was unclear on what modifications he needed to make to his Tanfo.



It's like having 2 TV's next to each other at Best Buy. You can the difference.

When you only have 1 TV it doesn't make much of a difference... Here lies the problem.

The SP01 is mine too. I finished modifying that one in 2 days and am itching for more to do at night.
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True, but right now, you're comparing a 4K 60 inch, to a 13 inch black and white with bunny ears... 

Get the correct parts recommended here, and you'll likely sell your CZ. 


I hope.

I was thinking of another project Tanfo... Not sure which one. Just to modify the piss out of it. I'll find time to shoot it later.

Thank you for your all your help.
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16 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

If you want to spend weeks tuning and tweaking and to lose yourself in an evening?

...build an Open gun. You can kill months playing with one.

And it still may not run!

I've considered it. Before I go to an open gun I wanted to finish off IDPA as a 5 gun master...but I can build the gun first.
I've looked into STI's but now that I have the CZ bug things may change. 

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2 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

If you're looking to play in IDPA then it's time to rebuild your Lim Pro as a DA/SA  for SSP / ESP domination purposes. 

No one shoots a CZ anymore. Those haven't been cool since they outlawed the Accu bushings.

I'm going to knock ESP Master off the list. I'm done with SSP. 

So SAO is ok (allowable modification) and I believe the Titan hammer will be ok too because I believe it's off other Tanfo production guns. The rest is internal. 

Maybe I build a CDP gun next. 

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So...I received my Titan hammer and BOLO.

My Tanfo trigger is still in the mail.

 

I tested the hammer and BOLO and there was no affect on the trigger pull. The reset didn't change except that it was much less positive. It barely "clicked". 

I removed the BOLO and the reset became much more positive. 

The Titan Hammer alone seemed not to have any affect on the trigger. (Break nor pull)

The downside of the hammer is that the safety no longer engages but I guess I need to modify a few things for that to work.

I feel like I wasted that $165. 

 

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Do you still have the Henning trigger in it? ARy posted, before his posts were deleted, hidden, removed, whatever, that the Henning SAO trigger kit will not work properly with the rest of the stuff you are installing. What trigger did you order from Tanfo? Did you not keep the original one when you replaced it with the Henning? Try and swap that one back in if you still have it. And remember that a polish job is very important.

As far as the safety, it will require fitting. All of the other threads on here say that. The bolo will drop in with the titan and a 1 piece sear, but the safety engagement is changed when those parts are installed. So, I'm not sure why you seem surprised by that.

Trust me it works dude, with the original trigger, the BOLO, the one piece sear (which you should have unless they changed something in production) and the titan hammer. My trigger feel is excellent. no BS, it is great DA with no stack, Solid reset, Short rest, and almost imperceptible pre travel. My pretravel is greater than most because I prefer the Canik pin. It makes assembly and disassembly easier than the standard roll pins (doesn't even require a punch)

Edited by ryridesmotox
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Do you still have the Henning trigger in it? ARy posted, before his posts were deleted, hidden, removed, whatever, that the Henning SAO trigger kit will not work properly with the rest of the stuff you are installing. What trigger did you order from Tanfo? Did you not keep the original one when you replaced it with the Henning? Try and swap that one back in if you still have it. And remember that a polish job is very important.

As far as the safety, it will require fitting. All of the other threads on here say that. The bolo will drop in with the titan and a 1 piece sear, but the safety engagement is changed when those parts are installed. So, I'm not sure why you seem surprised by that.

Trust me it works dude, with the original trigger, the BOLO, the one piece sear (which you should have unless they changed something in production) and the titan hammer. My trigger feel is excellent. no BS, it is great DA with no stack, Solid reset, Short rest, and almost imperceptible pre travel. My pretravel is greater than most because I prefer the Canik pin. It makes assembly and disassembly easier than the standard roll pins (doesn't even require a punch)


I tried it both with the Henning and with the stock. The reset is very light. I'll post a video of it shortly.

I got the flat Tanfoglio SAO trigger with travel stops. Yet to arrive.

None of this really "worth" it but I have to question what is now $240 worth of different parts for what may not be much if any different than what I had before.

As far as polishing... This is the most polished gun I own now. (didn't any of the new parts yet). I can't imagine polishing any more than I have.
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That video with the stock trigger... Did you grind on the BOLO? With the stock trigger and the stock trigger pin there shoulder be no pretravel in single action. Having that much is indicative of there being excessive fitting on the BOLO. Or excessive tolerance stacking in your gun, which is Well beyond your control. 

 

Also, what plunger spring are you running? That has the most control over the feel of the reset. If you look in my signature, how my gun is set up gives a very tactile reset. You can hear and feel it. 

Basically what I'm getting at is, take your gun totally back to original... Then start moding it

Edited by ryridesmotox
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That video with the stock trigger... Did you grind on the BOLO? With the stock trigger and the stock trigger pin there shoulder be no pretravel in single action. Having that much is indicative of there being excessive fitting on the BOLO. Or excessive tolerance stacking in your gun, which is Well beyond your control. 


I didn't touch the BOLO or hammer at all.
Is that sear or trigger bar?
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What plunger spring are you running? The plunder is under the trigger bar and pushes the trigger bar against the disconnector... Did You stone or use sandpaper is some other abraisive on the sear, sear cage, or trigger bar?


PD plunger spring. The plunger is polished.

I stoned the sear and polished it.
I may have hit it with 1k as well but can't remember.

The trigger bar was hit with 800 grit, 1k, 1500 and polished.

I didn't do much with the sear cage.

I can snap pics.
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1 hour ago, Underwhere said:


PD plunger spring. The plunger is polished.

I stoned the sear and polished it.
I may have hit it with 1k as well but can't remember.

The trigger bar was hit with 800 grit, 1k, 1500 and polished.

I didn't do much with the sear cage.

I can snap pics.

The sear is ONLY surface hardened.  hope your working didn't go too far.

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2 hours ago, Underwhere said:


PD plunger spring.


I stoned the sear and polished it.
I may have hit it with 1k as well but can't remember.

I didn't do much with the sear cage.

I can snap pics.

PD doesn't make a plunger spring. They recommend the original factory spring. 

As John said, the sear is not through hardened. So hopefully you didn't hit it too hard with that 1k grit. I usually leave my sear alone and polish the pin it rides on. 

The sear cage has more to do with the pull than the sear. It can cause friction on the top of the trigger bar. May want to check into that.

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PD doesn't make a plunger spring. They recommend the original factory spring. 

As John said, the sear is not through hardened. So hopefully you didn't hit it too hard with that 1k grit. I usually leave my sear alone and polish the pin it rides on. 

The sear cage has more to do with the pull than the sear. It can cause friction on the top of the trigger bar. May want to check into that.



Then it must be the Henning one. (plunger spring)

Here is a pic overload.
Also a video. Ignore my daughter's toy making noise.

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And the really annoying undersized pin makes it a pain in the ass to put back the sear cage.
8a438052aafd63b5345dee447d4ca978.jpg

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