67rschev Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 (edited) Hello , a first post here . Found this forum and has been a great help in improving my newly acquired Tanfoglio Stock 2 . Have a few questions for the Tanfo experienced . I have a Henning single action only strait trigger installed and am very happy with the improvement in the trigger placement and usage for my application ( range ho , target , working into steel challenge ) . Next that I would like to improve is the actual break and reset of the trigger so I will need a different hammer sear combo . Right now I have the factory two piece sear and factory hammer . What a bugger getting that sear monkey hump back together in the cage uggg . I have read that they are only surfaced hardened from Tanfo anyway , and that major modification is not a good idea . To play with the reset , am I correct in saying I need to shorten the left lower leg ? If I wind up with a one piece sear , will i need to also shorten the right FPB leg also ? Any links to any pictures of sears would be appreciated for proper form and shape of sear reset legs . Anyone used the Henning modified combo ? What about sear from one of the Tanfo SAO Match guns ? One other thing is I would like to keep my reliability 100% . Right now set up is full mirror polish , 8# recoil , Henning mid reach flat trigger with no disconnector , 18 # henning plunger spring , gen 5 pin , clipped FPS , clipped 13 # hammer . Has been 100% with Winchester and Federal . Gratuitous pic ... Edited November 20, 2016 by 67rschev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 I can't answer most of those. Just these: 1. Put the factory firing pin back in. It's heavier and pops primers better than the Henning with light springs. 2. A 1-piece sear lifts the firing pin block less than the 2-piece and will require the extended firing-pin block. You'll probably need to fit the block so that it just barely blocks when the trigger is relaxed, because the sear will only let it drop about 1/32" or less when you pull the trigger and it needs to let the firing pin go by with zero drag. There's very little movement, and so your parts need fitted perfectly. The Xtreme block will probably not drop far enough to allow the FP to clear. So you simply file down either the head which sticks out of the slide, or the square tab that sticks up into the channel, until it can just barely block the pin but clears when the sear pivots downward and sends the firing pin forward. The extended FPB versus the shorter factory one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bapple Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 If you are going to use the Xtreme 1 piece sear, the extended firing pin block is needed? Looking at the Xtreme sear and if the ext firing pin block is a nessesary with it, I will add it to my list. Thanks for any help/ info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Yes, that's what I was saying, above. Tanfos work the opposite way that Glock or M&P striker blocks do: Those are lifted up out of the way by the trigger bar when you fire. In a Tanfoglio it is held upward (blocking the pin) until you pull the trigger and then it drops down out of the way. The 1-piece sear doesn't move as far as the 2 piece does. So you need a taller firing pin safety block and will probably need to fit it for proper function so that your firing pin doesn't drag on it a little. Or a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted November 21, 2016 Author Share Posted November 21, 2016 (edited) Thank you , If I go with the 1 piece conversion , an extended FPB is a must then . I'm not quite understanding why they would have change to the two piece anyway , such a bugger to mess with , and the extra spring stacking can be felt . I've had no light strikes to this point ( ~ 800 rounds ) with the Gen 5 and 13 # clipped using Winchester and Federal SPPs . FPB , and pin was clearanced and polished , using a clipped wolf FPS . Found out how short the throat was within the first 5 rounds I had loaded first time out . Found a more suitable bullet profile ( Zero 147 HP ) and have been 100% perfect since then . Edited November 21, 2016 by 67rschev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesm Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 I converted my S2 to single action with the following: Extreme SA semi flat trigger, EGW hard sear and EGW hammer. The EGW sear has no lever to push the fining pin block so that is not an issue. However the EGW sear usually requires a fair amount of metal removal from the front of the bottom leg that contacts the trigger bar to allow proper trigger reset and quite a bit off the top lever that the thumb safety slides under. After all the sear fitting it came out great. I have another S2 that I converted also by simply installing the trigger, sear and hammer from a Witness Match. It feels almost as good as the first one. On both I am running a 14# wolff and a Henning firing pin. 13# ran win and fed 100% but about 2 out 100 cci's didn't fire on first strike. If you are not shooting in competition that requires it, the firing pin block can be removed to improve reliability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 On 11/25/2016 at 1:38 AM, lesm said: I converted my S2 to single action with the following: Extreme SA semi flat trigger, EGW hard sear and EGW hammer. The EGW sear has no lever to push the fining pin block so that is not an issue. However the EGW sear usually requires a fair amount of metal removal from the front of the bottom leg that contacts the trigger bar to allow proper trigger reset and quite a bit off the top lever that the thumb safety slides under. After all the sear fitting it came out great. I have another S2 that I converted also by simply installing the trigger, sear and hammer from a Witness Match. It feels almost as good as the first one. On both I am running a 14# wolff and a Henning firing pin. 13# ran win and fed 100% but about 2 out 100 cci's didn't fire on first strike. If you are not shooting in competition that requires it, the firing pin block can be removed to improve reliability. Thank you for sharing your combination . Thinking may try the ' match sear and hammer ' rout first with a little extra love on them . Did you obtain these components from EAA with a call or ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesm Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 67, they were used. I took them out of an old match that I had laying around. They dropped in and work great. I buy most of the parts I need ( and some I don't need ) from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. Ben is carrying a lot of Tanfo parts these days and usually ships quickly. I think I am going back to 13# hammer spring and try the Extreme heavier firing pin. I have a Limited 38 super with a 13# and all other parts are factory and it fires mag and small rifle primers 100%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Ordered the EGW Competition hammer and Hard sear last night from Midway , bonus was on sale . Will not be a carry piece so lack of FPB leg on sear not a big issue . Tried to get an affirmative answer on the Tanfoglio Match sear and hammer parts , but could not get any clarification on the phone yesterday . After reading all the uncertainties of the hardening on the factory sears this was probably the best way to go to achieve my goals with a SAO trigger in my Stock 2 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesm Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 67, EGW are very good parts. Last a long time. Just take your time fitting the sear and I think you will really like the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 (edited) ARy Thank you . Very nice trigger break and action you have there , If I don't achieve the desired results with the components I have that may be a route for me to explore lesm You are correct , the EGW hammer and sear are very nice parts indeed . The fit and finish are top notch on these and so far the fitting is going very smoothly . I Have the sear engagement set at .017 , reset and disconnect are working 100 % of the time . Having one little issue with the safety leg fitting . I get full safety engagement in the half cock and full cock positions but not in the no cock hammer position if I keep the EGW leg shape . Looks like I will have to reshape the leg to more of a point like the OEM sear for it to work . I have been using these instructions for my fitting and have been very helpful . Edited December 4, 2016 by 67rschev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesm Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 67, sounds like you are doing great. I am not an expert so maybe someone that knows will help me out. As far as being able to put the safety on with the hammer down, I don't know what function that would accomplish on a single action only gun since the hammer is down and sear disengaged. DA/SA would be a different case. I had to file a little off the front of the sear safety leg since it was dragging against the rear of the pad on the safety shaft. I would research the above a little more before I took any more off the sear since with a single action only setup maybe it's not suppose to engage with the hammer down. Henning would be happy to answer that question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) When fitting the one piece sear to my gun, I noticed that I needed to remove the least material to engage the safety in single action. Another pass from the dremel and the half-cock position allowed you to safe the gun. The DA position required the most material removal, but as long as you aren't a hack and are patient, it will still operate correctly in the previous two positions. I believe you just need to remove a couple more thousandths if you want the safety to work correctly in all hammer positions. Edited December 5, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) One hundred trouble free rounds down the tube this morning with the new sear and hammer . Trigger is very nice , a giant improvement over the factory set up which was gritty and long . I did put in a 14 # Hammer spring for today's testing , as the EGW hammer looks to be a little lighter than the oem Tanfo stock 2s and I didn't want to be dorking with light strikes for this test . Memphis here are a couple pics of the safety / sear engagement in no and half cock . Its a little weird or maybe I've never paid attention but the sear rises up a mm or 2 when run to half cock , don't think the oem tanfo did that . Looks like I'll have to nip the safety leg to more of a point . I also have a video of the trigger action and break , just having issues getting the file loaded up maybe later tonight . Edited December 5, 2016 by 67rschev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 When you put the slide back on, the sear lifts the slide slightly on mine. Kinda weird. I'm not going to complain too much since the gun functions alright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) Nip the safety leg of the sear? You know the objective is to clearance the bottom of that leg so that the safety can slide underneath it and prevent the sear from rocking, right? Just making sure you're not shortening the tip instead. Edited December 6, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Put a DA hammer in (or keep it), a bolo, and a SAO trigger with the pretravel screw removed, but still utilizing the post travel. Damn it! Just bought the Extreme DA/SA trigger!!!Wow!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 3 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: Nip the safety leg of the sear? You know the objective is to clearance the bottom of that leg so that the safety can slide underneath it and prevent the sear from rocking, right? Just making sure you're not shortening the tip instead. Yes I understand , and yes I will have to shorten the height of the safety leg on the sear . This will enable the safety bump to slide under the leg in the no cock position . The stock and other tanfo sears are a beveled to a point in front to allow this , but the EGW sear is flat in the front . I have clearanced the underside of the leg and have full safety function in full and half , but the bump / lock on the safety pivot runs into the front of the leg in no cock . Tried to show that in the pictures but its hard to see . When going from no to half the sear rotates up about 1 mm and thus allows the safety to slide under the leg locking it . Im too tired to pull it down tonight but here are a couple of pictures off line that show the differences between the EGW sear and a Tanfo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67rschev Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) Here is what I have so far , ran 100 through it today . Mind you it is a rough out for function , but the break is immensely better . I am going to shorten the reset leg a bit more to move the trigger back a bit . This will also help as I need to limit the overtravel more and the stop screw in it is close to its limit on travel adjustment. Slow process but well worth it already . http://vid768.photobucket.com/albums/xx323/67rschev/MVI_1465_zpslklfflre.mp4 Edited December 6, 2016 by 67rschev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 I just got the Xtreme trigger in, and polished.Didn't know you could drop in an SAO it would run that nice.(Limited Pro)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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