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CZ SP01 and Shadow mag drop free issue


MP9

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tightening that spring is a shady trick. I loctite now, if I have it available, as I'm not going to go in there and try to stake the thing again. but you need to try to the screw back to the same spot if you can, and hold the trigger bar springs from twisting. I tend to go a bit further than original and then back it out to where it was (I take a pic before I take it apart).

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  • 2 weeks later...

tightening that spring is a shady trick. I loctite now, if I have it available, as I'm not going to go in there and try to stake the thing again.

I talked it over with CGW and ended up staking mine, when you have two or more excellent resources available and they diverge on technique I guess you go with your gut or a coin toss. I figured if I screwed up the staking part then I would just have to deal with the screw coming loose, if I screwed up the loctite part I was more scared of worst case.

Anyway, it was easy and 1000 rounds or so later so far so good. If I see the hoity toity cz staking tool available for a reasonable price I will pick one up one day, but a good sharp punch seemed to work fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Great info however mine may have a different issue.

Mine seems to pull the top round, of the mag, forward ( at times)and this wont let the mag release cleanly.

Not sure how many of my mags do it. I've done a poor job isolating the offenders.

Is this a weak mag spring issue?

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I polished the disconnect rail so rounds wouldnt drag forward so much. I just got done working over my slide stops which apparently aren't the new style. I have a p-01 that came with the new style lugs worked over but I actually prefer filing it only as needed so there is more material left to engage on the mag when empty. If your bullets are slipping forward and catching the slide stop lugs it will hang up the mag

Yes 10% springs will help hold the top round secure. I have the California mags so went with 5% since the springs are already compressed because I'm limited to 10 rounds. I figure since spring is compressed already the 5% is actually 10% but 10% might be 15% and too much.

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Edited by brian45acp
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I have yet to take out the screw for the mag spring and lifter spring. I know to use a good gun smith driver and will need to buy a set. My question is about reinstalling that screw. It seems if you tighten it people say the spring will twist. So are you guys not tightening it all the way?

I have the stake tool and it's well made but hardly worth $48. The screw was partially smacked from the factory and some metal was deformed to blend with the frame metal and hold it in. Basically the tool must have been placed partially on the screw and the frame then hit so I would just copy that.

What's the advice about how tight to make this screw?

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I have yet to take out the screw for the mag spring and lifter spring. I know to use a good gun smith driver and will need to buy a set. My question is about reinstalling that screw. It seems if you tighten it people say the spring will twist. So are you guys not tightening it all the way?

I have the stake tool and it's well made but hardly worth $48. The screw was partially smacked from the factory and some metal was deformed to blend with the frame metal and hold it in. Basically the tool must have been placed partially on the screw and the frame then hit so I would just copy that.

What's the advice about how tight to make this screw?

http://www.olegnikitin.com/news/complete-disassembly-assembly-of-cz-75-sp-01-shadow

I just did it like this guy says to. Good and snug but not tight tight (hard to buy a torque screwdriver with that setting).

I've mentioned previously (don't remember if it was this thread) that when I took one of my guns apart I found the screw was just sitting on the spring and not even snug tight, gun was working fine. With my other gun it took a good flat blade and a good hard effort to get the screw loose.

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After all my other questions in other threads this guy inserts extractor pin from the top side, lol. I guess my gun is fine and didn't ruin the hole pushing it partially out the top before realizing pushy it downward would be best.

For the screw I plan on putting a bit of grease on the underside of the head so that it doesn't grab onto the spring and twist it like that. It will be re secured by staking so loctite curing won't be an issue with grease being in the area. It seems super tight will grab the spring and disrupt it so how much torque is going to be just before that happens then stake it down.

Thanks for the link

Edited by brian45acp
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The grease won't help. When I get down to tightening the screw the last bit, I use a long straight punch to hold the spring place, tighten it very snug and then back off a bit to straighten the spring. Haven't had complaints from people whose guns I've worked on, nor had my own come loose. I have also used blue loctite on some of them, when it is available. Also, I have changed which leg I bend on the spring, I bend the right leg when the gun is setup for right handed shooters.

I've noticed some very strange trigger bar springs lately, completely deformed and the owners swearing they have never taken them out before. Definitely a spring I carry in my parts kit now so I can replace when necessary.

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Why is Cajun dead set against the loctite? Seems like they know it's not a good idea.

I imagine a new screw is a good idea, as well as replaced springs, so it can be staked. Deforming the screw head a little is what it looks like the factory did. I would be worried hitting the screw head would jolt the threads in frame some how but that's how all mine look. A bit of metal from the screw and frame are deformed together to lock it in

Edited by brian45acp
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