Chutist Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 I'm trying to get my RL1050 back on line after sitting in the corner for 10 years. Got it bolted down, started cleaning and got to the point I wanted to cycle some cases though it. I turned on the case feeder... Nothing. So I got a hairdryer and checked the outlet, worked fine. Pulled the cover off to see if there was a fuse or anything loose. Blew it out with compressed air and looked around, everything looked fine. No dangling wires. Checked the switch in the tube, I could hear the click and checked the contacts. Tried high and low.... nothing. Is there a fuse or something I'm missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) Do you have a volt meter? Like this http://t.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F Edited December 22, 2015 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Or you could try... With the Casefeeder UNPLUGGED, bypass the micro switch, then plug it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) Is there brass in the collator? Take everything out, remove the disc. There could be something jammed under it. Is it dead on both High and Low? Then the switch would be a suspect, but these are extremely reliable parts, so perhaps a broken wire - more probable. Especially the point where a Fast On connector is crimmped on the wire's end. Edited December 22, 2015 by Foxbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Is there brass in the collator? Take everything out, remove the disc. There could be something jammed under it. On that note, make sure the clutch isn't just spinning on the feed plate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chutist Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) Nothing is spinning... no movement or sound on high or low. No indication of power having been applied at all. I will try Brian's suggestion and jumper it but I have to get some wire. I've reached in and turned the collator by hand, it moves as I would expect. There is nothing in the unit so it's not overloaded. I've reached in the feed tube and tripped that switch a few times too. I pulled the top apart again and wiggled all the wires to make sure everything was connected. Edited December 23, 2015 by Chutist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 You will need a volt meter or an AC tester such as below or borrow one. You'll be guessing without one. http://www.davis.com/Product/Extech_ET25_Compact_AC_DC_Voltage_Tester_90_300V/YX-20021-24?referred_id=3388&gclid=CJSzvMOa8ckCFQqpaQodL60Ksw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) There is 110 VAC in there, I wouldn't mess with it too much unless you know what your doing. Not like your going to die by figuring out what is going on but you could if you do it wrong. Might be worth sending it back vs risking injury. I promise it's worth less than you are. If your "spinning it around" by the plate, your likely sliding it around the clutch. Look at the black part with the two socket head cap screws in the center of the gray disk. If you rotate them (the clutch) by moving the plate the gears are likely gone in the motor. Edited December 23, 2015 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) If you don't have any test equipment, unplug the collator from power now/first. Not just Turing the switch off but unplugged. This is the connection you will make (yellow jumper), again NOT under power to bypass the switch(es). The diode (covered by the yellow jumper) between the high and low portion of the switch will drop the voltage to the motor about 6 volts (124 VAC to 118 VAC) but it will vary depending on what your line voltage is. However, will have no effect with the jumper in place, nor will either switch. If it doesn't run when you plug it back in at this point (not touching anything except the wall plug) your motor is bad. Edited December 23, 2015 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chutist Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 I suspect the motor is bad but with Christmas I won't get to revisit it for a few days. Will Dillon cover the motor? I'll admit I've been spoiled back in the 90's - if it broke they just sent you a new one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Normally the motor is not covered, but you need to ask them regarding your particular case. Should you need to buy a motor, you can get it on ebay for much less. You will, however, need to drill a hole on the shaft, and install a roll pin. If you don't know how, then buy from Dillon. Over the years I had two bad motors. They covered one of them, but that was an almost new feeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 sitting for more than a few years.... I would bet the oil on the motor bearings has congealed. put a few drops of airtool oil on the bearings. then try to shift the motor shaft to work the oil in there. .... then try it. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Not really... the motor has gearbox, packed with grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 ... that would be congealed grease then... but I am sticking to the motor bearings being stuck (we're sticky) mostly because I have seen it so often. it may be tough to get to the motor because of the gearbox however. I'd clean it first and then consider returning or getting a new one. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) The motor on ebay comes just as the motor in the feeder - already with the gearbox. Just less the pin. They are very easy to find. Here it is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-3M098-Gearmotor-AC-4-RPM-/252192886789?hash=item3ab7de1005:g:N5AAAOSwg3FUkzLG But no, not the motor bearing, what sometimes ceases there is the first gear, as the rotor bearings are very good. I had it happen to my motor, so I just cleaned its shaft and lubed it, it's been running fine since then - for many years. But you have to take the gearbox apart to get to it. On older motors they used rivets to hold the gearbox together, you need to drill those out, then tap the holes for M3 screws. The new motors already have screws. Edited December 23, 2015 by Foxbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 !!! Cool! thanks for the link. the photo looks like the motor is what I am told is a squirrel cage rotor. proper name aside, it is not known as a high torque starter. The occasional fan around my house will not go after a long winter and a little fresh oil onto the bearings and a flip to start it will usually get it running for the summer. I assumed this is such a case. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 It is what is called shaded pole motor, but there is huge reduction in the gearbox, so the motor is running pretty much with no load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 yea that is quite true that there is very little load. And if the bearings are congealed oil it will not start. I have seen variants in clocks also. they are easy to build and are pretty robust. I would call it a normal fan motor if I had not been told it is a squirrel cage type.... clean, oil and grease as needed. I'd try that first. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 If you take the gear box apart, separate the two halves horizontally and slowly. A digital camera is your friend for getting everything back in place correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Always a good precaution to open it over a baking sheet or something like that. The gears go in only one way, you will not make mistake, but losing one would be bad karma! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) yea that is quite true that there is very little load. And if the bearings are congealed oil it will not start. I have seen variants in clocks also. they are easy to build and are pretty robust. I would call it a normal fan motor if I had not been told it is a squirrel cage type.... clean, oil and grease as needed. I'd try that first. miranda The squirrel cage is a very popular type for fans, but here it is different, it is shaded pole motor. They produce very low starting torque, so are typically used with gearboxes. Edited December 23, 2015 by Foxbat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Hi Foxbat, ok. Square bobbin o wire and laminated plates and the big ole copper shade... the rotor is different? I've seen a lot of different constructions in the rotor the clock one was the thinnest with a loop and two close parallel fingers holding the loop. the biggest and most complicated one has alu cooling fins and steel pins holding it what looked like steel and brass plates. 'cause I have tried all these and I can hold them from starting. you are going to tell me a shaded pole motor has lots of starting torque? ... after re-reading this thread...I feel I need to add this. I tinker and fix things and I am often looking for answers and if a shaded pole motor is different from the many motors I have tried that happen to look like shaded pole motors I do want to know about it. Another good point here and I give you credit for it is that it is not a pointedly expensive fix to replace the motor/gearbox me... I'd clean etc. simply because it is what I do. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 No big deal, and Merry Christmas to you! You can read the detailed descriptions on Wiki, it is all there. No, torque-wise, opposite is true, the shaded pole has very low torque. Most of the time it is easy to spot - it has the stator with two poles, and one winding, but the stator also has a funny looking shorted turn winding, usually just a turn or two of heavy copper wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chutist Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) OKAY... I couldn't stand it...while the pumpkin pies are in the oven I ran out and did this.... So jumped the micro switch as B.E. suggested and what do you know.... It runs! Emailed Dillon... If my history from the 90's is any indication I'll have a new micro switch shortly. Thanks guys! Edited December 24, 2015 by Chutist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 yeaaaaaaa! pass me some pie. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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