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Kimber 1911 9mm


wbyrd01

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I was already planning on replacing the barrel bushing, recoil spring, main spring, and most likely the extractor. I thought the ejector might be an issue and if it is I'll work it out. I absolutely do not plan on this being as simple as dropping in a different barrel. Adjusting the sights is a given.

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I was already planning on replacing the barrel bushing, recoil spring, main spring, and most likely the extractor. I thought the ejector might be an issue and if it is I'll work it out. I absolutely do not plan on this being as simple as dropping in a different barrel. Adjusting the sights is a given.

But at that point, what on Earth do you gain by not just building that top end on a new frame?

As I said, the kimber breechface doesn't fit the 40 round. 2 people on this thread have measured for you, and the idea is batting a big zero.

Don't forget, you can just sell the 9mm later and buy a 1911 in 40 for little to no difference in cost. That's much cheaper than all the work you are planning.

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What they do is cut the breech face to use the same width ejector for 9mm, 38 super and 40 s&w. They all use the same Ejector. But the breech face cut out for the rim to fit in and maybe the placement of the extractor bore are set for the specific round.

Width isn't the issue, the kimber 9mm ejector is extended, a lot:

post-26511-143173851583_thumb.jpg

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The gun showed up today and the breech face is a perfect fit for 9mm! Looks like I'll be shooting minor until I decide I need to shoot major. Thanks for the lively discussion!

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Yeah, I think I'll be keeping this gun and keeping it as is! Last night's Tuesday Night Steel match and my first time shooing in Single Stack. I usually shoot in Limited and am ranked as C class in that division. I shot the match twice last night, once in Limited and once in SS. I shot SS .29 seconds faster than I shot Limited.

_20150520_003937.jpg

Edited by wbyrd01
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Seriously, I love mine (now). Get another gun for 40, there's no way I wouldn't keep a 1911 9mm ready to go at a moment's notice.

I modified mine as:

Dawson FO front sight

C&S fire control (I made drill rod pins for perfect fit)

EGW HD extractor (order series 70, file a notch for the kimber swartz safety)

EGW firing pin stop (tiny radius, again get series 70 here, the s80 part hangs on the swartz plunger making assembly/disassembly a pain in the ass)

EGW firing pin (only because I had a little erosion on the breechface, may not be a legal change as it kinda disabled the swartz). If you have this issue, solution is to get a kimber 45 pin and sand it down to fit, which I haven't done yet.

STI Ti hammer strut

I think I run a stronger mainspring (with the FPS radius this makes it shoot SOFT but recoil cycle is slower this way)

Ed Brown grip safety. You remove a LOT of frame to fit it, as well as some thumb safety, but it's so worth it for the much higher grip it allows.

The team match model I have came with a MSH attached magwell, bomar rear, frontstrap checkering, and ambi safety.

Tripp cobra mags. Avoid the Wilson ETM, which ride higher and hit the kimber ejector causing feed chaos.

I did more than recommended, though. The stock trigger was actually pretty good. A lot of that was just preferences and me wanting to tinker.

I regard only the following as essential for any kimber:

EGW S70 FPS

Good extractor

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Dawson FO front site will be here tomorrow.

Ed Brown GS, Wilson firing pin, Wilson extractor, and Wilson disconnector will be here next week.

I put in an STI hammer and sear and 10-9 flat trigger last week.

New recoil spring, main spring, and firing pin spring will also be here next week.

I also installed the Dawson Ice magwell and have 6 Dawson 10 round mags.

Gunsmith for tuning will happen soon. I'll see about getting the FPS before them.

I too must tinker with everything!

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C&S fire control (I made drill rod pins for perfect fit) making your own pins, is pretty slick.

but am surprise you kept any of the swartz safety items at all.

mine is not a team match and does not have checkering.

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I honestly didn't have much choice on the pins. The C&S holes were too tight and I didn't want to ream them. Drill rod is easy, just find the bit shank that fits and cut to length.

I kept the swartz because this is my carry gun, believe it or not.

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