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Question on barrel lockup on 1911


shotgunone

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Yes, this will affect the accuracy. But there are a few questions that need to be asked, why is there a longer link in the gun then what the lower lugs were cut for? Was to much material removed accidently? If it is not to far off changing the link and installing a oversized slide release pin might save you, if not weld the lower lugs and re-cut. And if you just change the link to a shorter one your barrel will not be locked up all the way.

If the guns upper lugs are being pushed up into engagement by just the width of the barrel link it will not lock up the same consistently, the only pressure exerted to the barrel link and pin should be just the swinging of the barrel up until the slide stop hits the lower lugs and down until it hits the rear impact of the frame. Eventually your link or pin will break.

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Yes, this will affect the accuracy. But there are a few questions that need to be asked, why is there a longer link in the gun then what the lower lugs were cut for? Was to much material removed accidently? If it is not to far off changing the link and installing a oversized slide release pin might save you, if not weld the lower lugs and re-cut. And if you just change the link to a shorter one your barrel will not be locked up all the way.

If the guns upper lugs are being pushed up into engagement by just the width of the barrel link it will not lock up the same consistently, the only pressure exerted to the barrel link and pin should be just the swinging of the barrel up until the slide stop hits the lower lugs and down until it hits the rear impact of the frame. Eventually your link or pin will break.

Not sure I can answer any of those questions. The gun is a factory gun that I bought new so I am guessing it was that way from the factory. Thing is it scatters shots in about a 8 to 10 inch grouping at about 20 yards with just about whatever ammo I run thru it. Also with the sights center in the slide it is shooting about 5 to 6 inches left. I finally figured out by using a sharpie to color the bottom lugs of the barrel and then racking the slide about 60 or 70 times that the lugs are not locking up on the slide stop pin, or at least in the curve of the barrel lugs. I emailed the factory today with this information and I am waiting to hear back from them.

Just wondering if this situation is consistant with the patterning of the shots.

Edited by shotgunone
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If your barrel locks up on the barrel link instead of the lower lugs of the barrel when the gun is in battery, does that affect the accuracy of the pistol? If so how?

From my experience, I would wager most mass made 1911's "stand on the link" in lockup simply because the manufacturing process does not have the fitting it takes to make the gun fit as originally designed. My Para 1640 is on the link and the accuracy is actually pretty good (sub 3" groups at 25 yards). Obviously, it's not preferable and it's why I recommend people buy STI and pay the extra money. A 1911 is either fitted or a it's a bunch of parts thrown together. But it doesn't necessarily mean the gun won't be accurate.

Edited by bountyhunter
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Yes, this will affect the accuracy. But there are a few questions that need to be asked, why is there a longer link in the gun then what the lower lugs were cut for?

I think in most cases it is for one of two reasons:

1) They are forcing POI down because it is shooting too high for the sights.

2) They have to get the rear of the barrel up because the lugs don't have enough insertion depth into the slide cuts.

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So if the link has no perceivable side to side play then standing on the link will not affect accuracy? So how much "wiggle" is too much? this barrel has some. I feel just an ever so slight "rolling" action when pushing from the side of the ejection port towards the left side of the slide. Pushing down on the barrel doesn't seem to be a problem.

Edited by shotgunone
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So if the link has no perceivable side to side play then standing on the link will not affect accuracy? So how much "wiggle" is too much? this barrel has some. You can also push on the back of the barrel when it's locked up and feel just an ever so slight "rolling" action when pushing from the side of the ejection port towards the left side of the slide. Pushing down on the barrel doesn't seem to be a problem.

Bottom line is does the barrel go to the same place each time it cycles, not necessarily how much you can force it to move with external pressure. The "best case" lockup of a 1911 barrel (way originally designed) at the rear is a three point stance where the lower lugs sit on the slide stop cross pin and the top is just flush with the slide. It can't move at all. Hand made guns like STI, Wilson, SVI and the type are fitted this way (at least my STIs are). I have never seen any mass made gun that is because they are not fitted, they are just toleranced pieces shoved together but many of them still shoot accurately.

Bottom line is how the gun shoots.

Edited by bountyhunter
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While I won't say that the ammo was top of the line it is all factory includes: Winchester White Box 115 gr RN, Federal 115 gr and 124 gr RN, Freedom munition 124 gr and 147 gr RN, & Freedom munition 115 JHP. The groups (10 shots at about 20 yrds) are about the size of a basket ball with what center there is shifted to the left about 5 or 6 inches with the rear sight centered in the slide. I don't claim to be an expert shot but using the same ammo I can consistantly shoot 3-4 inch groups offhand with my glock 34 or M&P 5 inch Pro at that distance.

Anyway I'll be sending the gun back to the factory to see what they have to say.

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