started reloading 223 for the first time and i am a bit lost

[Doctor]

i screwed the decap resize die down and backed it off a half turn on my rl 550. Some of the primers would not extract and i am unsure how far to screw the die down so it might knock them out. Only two of 30 did not come out. And the directions in bold face say to headspace the brass. The STRONGLY recommend that to use their words. What is the best way to headspace the brass and why do they STRONGLY(their bold face) recommend to do that?

thanks

[Dirty Rod]

I'm not sure what brand of dies or press you are using but a resizing die has two functions. The first is to resize the brass all the way down to the base and push the shoulder back so there is proper headspacing. To get the brass resized properly, you normally need to screw the die down until it touches the shellplate (with the ram raised) and most people then screw it down another quarter to a half turn. There are some variations for folks doing neck sizing or sizing for precision bolt guns but normally that's how the resizer is set. I case gauge will tell you if you have it set right.

The decapper generally can be adjusted separately. Usually you can loosen a top nut and screw the decapper down farther without messing with the resizing adjustment.

Edited November 4, 2014 by Dirty Rod

[Doctor]

thanks Rod

i am using dillon dies

i have to look online and see how to use the case guage

[Dirty Rod]

Dillon dies definitely allow you to screw just the decapper down without moving the entire die.

[Nugget]

I have a dillon 550 and dillon .223 dies. I set the sizing die up where it touches the shell plate with the ram all the way up then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn where it slightly cams over. Then I check it in my dillon case gauge. You need a good gauge of some kind to set your die to size properly.

As for not removing the primer if it is a dillon die you can slightly chamfer the bottom of the decapping pin to prevent the primer from getting stuck on it and pulling back up in the case.

If you don't headspace cases correctly you will have problems chambering and extracting rounds ( too long) or excessive stretching of brass( too short).

All this and case prep after sizing... Trimming,de-burring, chamfering and if you get anal you can clean primer pocket then you are ready to start working up loads.

De-capping pin should stick out at least 3/16" below die.

Here is a good read.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

Edited November 4, 2014 by Nugget

[dauntedfuture]

After you set your dies up to where the die is touching and then another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, lube and size 5 cases. If all the primers done come out, adjust the decapping pin down a little at a time. If the decapper is too far down, it will bottom out in the bottom of the case. With a clean and dry chamber rifle, try to chamber those 5 sticks of brass, they should all come out easily. If they don't, adjust the die down another 1/4-1/2 a turn and try ANOTHER 5 cases. Repeat this until you can chamber and extract without any issues. Make sure once this is adjusted you tighten your die lock ring. Put a witness mark on the die, ring and shell holder. If you are using one die for several rifles, try the brass in each rifle and size it enough for the tight rifle. It will still be larger then new brass so don't sweat things. Measure these cases and trim if required. Don't forget to chamfer and debur. Its almost impossible to create an "excess headspace" condition when sizing brass, its easy to not size brass enough. oh yea, you also might need to trim or swage the primer pockets if its mil brass.

[Doctor]

thanks everyone for the help

this forum is truly teriific!!!

[rjacobs]

Throw your case gauge in the garbage. Get a Hornady headspace gauge for your calipers(about 30 bucks). Measure a few pieces of new factory loaded ammo. Set your size die to MATCH(or get as close as you can) to this measurement. Now you have a number you can work with vs. a "eh, that looks pretty close to the two ridges". I have completely abandoned case gauges for rifle brass after switching to the hornady setup.

[Tcon260]

rjacobs has it right. Buy one of these http://www.hornady.com/store/Headspace-Gauge-Kits/and learn how to use it. I do, however, disagree with setting headspace to match new factory loaded ammo. New factory ammo has headspace set to for a chamber cut to SAMMI minimum. Instead, do this:

-Shoot some factory ammo through your rifle

-Measure the headspace

-Set your die so that headspace is 0.003" less for autoloaders and 0.001" less for bolt guns

-Shoot your reloaded ammo with your die set this way, and measure headspace after a couple of loadings. Once you have a good, fully fire formed case that fits your chamber, set the die for 0.003" less. I find that all three of my AR's have exactly the same headspace.

Setting dies by touching the shell plate and "doing anything else" is just not the right way to do it.

[Doctor]

i shall buy the Hornady headspace system

thanks for the help

[rjacobs]

I do, however, disagree with setting headspace to match new factory loaded ammo. New factory ammo has headspace set to for a chamber cut to SAMMI minimum.

I prep brass for a ton of various guns and I sell it. Setting it to min SAAMI spec ensures it will run in all guns. That is why my dies are set the way they are. Its not a bad thing, per say, especially if the OP doesnt understand headspace at all. Its easier to do it this way if you dont know exactly what or why you are setting brass up for 1 chamber.

If I had 1 gun, I would probably setup the die for that 1 gun, but I dont, I have many .223 guns some with tight match .223 chambers and some with 5.56 chambers.

[3guns]

The Hornady headspace gauge works awesome and saves you money from having to buy multiple case gauges.