Hammer1 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 . Which automatic drive for a Dillon Super 1050 is best ? One which uses a pedal to activate the press up and then another pedal action to activate it down ? Or an automatic drive which moves the press up and down continuously unless intentionally interrupted ? . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I put this one together http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/th_VIDEO0114.mp4 And this one. http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/auto%201050/th_VID_20130629_165943_746_zps1fffb858.mp4 What is your goal and how much money do you want to spend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mturnbull333 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I know a guy running 6 1050's with possnes waren auto drive and they all seem to run well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfire68 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 At some point I will need that second one that Jmorris posted! Wish I had the funds to order one today. Maybe in a few months? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 http://www.forchtfirearms.com/dillondoc.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) My 1050's Forcht Rotary auto drive modification 3ph 220v motor VFD for speed control Edited July 13, 2014 by Kaskillo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 Forcht. If I ever got more serious with mine(actually loading and not just doing brass prep) I might think of doing the 3 phase motor conversion with VFD, but for me, setting it up to run 1000 RPH is plenty for the brass prep and 300BLK brass conversion I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I run it up to 2.9K hour for pistol brass processing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeyedme Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) I've run the forcht for about a year now. Very happy with it. Edited July 14, 2014 by blueeyedme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 I put this one together http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/th_VIDEO0114.mp4 And this one. http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/auto%201050/th_VID_20130629_165943_746_zps1fffb858.mp4 What is your goal and how much money do you want to spend? What brand/size red bin is that? Sure beats the small Dillon one they give with the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Morris, you gotta get away from Photobucket. Their video bandwidth delivery just plain sucks. It's like being on dial up again. As for his press, the PLC (Programmable Logic Control) is probably from Automation Direct. http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Programmable_Controllers/DirectLogic_Series_PLCs_(Micro_to_Small,_Brick_-a-_Modular) The second video is a Forcht Autodrive at ludicrous speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) Yeah, PB has been pissing me off too, just have a bunch of stuff there. Here you go. The PLC is a Click from automation direct and the display is a Cmore micro. The red bin is the one that comes with my annealing machine, it's made by Akro-mils. http://www.zoro.com/i/G2559024/?category=5615 Edited July 14, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 14, 2014 Share Posted July 14, 2014 Morris; Might consider ditching that stock clutch from Fortch. I couldn't ever get it consistent, so I gave up. These are WAY better: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dalton-Gear-Torque-Limiter-OSD-225-Bore-5-8-/121382406217 Just have to bore the ID out for the JenJay motor (18mm). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 What does it look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Here ya go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) More specifically what does the friction material look like? Phenolic, fiberglass, UHMW, Delrin, Teflon, PVC? Looks like the same concept using a different material. Seems like with two hole saws and a drill press, you could cut new "friction" plates out of any material with less effort than boring and broaching steel and more folks are likely to have a drill press than the proper equipment for the modification. I agree with the fact that the sintered bronze bearing Craig uses allowing too much friction though. If you tighten the socket head cap screws with anything other than fingers, it can quickly provide too much torque and the need for extra index pawl's and other parts that would be damaged. Edited July 15, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 It's metallic clutch material, like brake pads. It's sensitive and repetitive to the point that you can set it to where it skips for just a fraction of a second on the full downstroke to resize. Turn the center nut a hair more, and it don't skip a beat unless there's a jam. So take the clutch to a machine shop... How much could it possibly cost to bore out the hole on a lathe? It's a 10 minute job that has little to no setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Having a machine shop it is free for me, I was thinking about folks that don't have "proper" equipment for the job. Taking one part to a machine shop, for boring and broaching would likely result in a charge that would at least double the price of that part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Yeah, PB has been pissing me off too, just have a bunch of stuff there. Here you go. The PLC is a Click from automation direct and the display is a Cmore micro. The red bin is the one that comes with my annealing machine, it's made by Akro-mils. http://www.zoro.com/i/G2559024/?category=5615 On the Forcht 1050, what do you have there in stations 6 and 7? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) There is nothing on 6, where the PC goes. The seat die is in #7 but does nothing without bullets. Only thing happening is at #1, case feed, #2 size/deprime and #3 swage/expand. Just makes sure all of the brass is ready to load and will run through the machine. You don't really have to do it but processing brass this way makes sure you don't have problems on the loading pass. I don't preprocess brass loading manually (as that would result in twice the work cranking the handle) but it takes little effort to do it if all you have to do is keep brass in the collator. Keeps malfunctions while loading at a minimum resulting in less chance to have problems with the final product. That was a "first run" of that machine. Once set up for loading, I just remove the PC arbor and powder measure for processing and replace them for loading, two Allen socket head screws. When I have time to finish automating my 45 acp 1050 I will have my SPP culler installed in the processing pass then switch over to the swager for the load pass. Just to keep from having to build a totally different device. Edited July 15, 2014 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Bird Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Last night I processed 1,000 rounds of brass in my 1050. Thank God for auto drive and brass feeder. Actually went pretty fast. It was a very eye opening experience. I was working range pickup brass. It was cleaned well and all was going great untill a piece of brass would not punch out the primer. I pulled those from the machine and kept going. A few did not punchout primer but also managed to get on to the prime station. No primers in the tube but it did cause so jumping when the partial proud primer would catch and make everything jump. I can see why during a loading operation having these issues could really cause hell. Now I am interested to see how a full loading process will work. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Ken; With an auto-drive, that's why it's a good idea to resize/deprime (and swage if needed) separately from loading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 IMHO Prepping then loading will produce better quality ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussellM Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I built a rotary 1050 last winter and I case prep and load separately now after a bit of experimentation, things just go a lot smoother. You can crank the speed up alot for case prep only so it goes quickly. I am also running one of the above mentioned torque limiters and it works quite well. McMaster carr sells them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaskillo Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) Can you share info on the auto drive you built? Edited July 15, 2014 by Kaskillo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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