openclassterror Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Anybody having this experience? I had my zero shift during a 3gun match at my local club about a month ago, drifting about 6" right at 25 yards. I used Kentucky windage to finish the match, then re-zeroed. At the 3GN Western Regional match, it was good the first three stages, then during the course of the fourth stage it drifted right again. I had some time to re-zero the next morning before finishing the match, and it was good to go. I took it out Saturday morning and it was shooting right again! I re-zeroed it, and made a mental note of the screw position. (I SHOULD NOTE HERE- 90 DEGREE MOUNT, SO ELEVATION IS WHAT IS MOVING). Sunday morning, Action Pistol match. First 2 stages, fine. Third stage required 2 reshoots due to prop malfunction. DURING the re-shoots, I notice that same shots on same targets are hitting further right progressively with each repetition, culminating in a no-shoot hit on the third run-through (the only one that counted, since the activator worked....finally). . Up to this point I was suspecting the optic mount, since it is attached to the mounting rail of my XDM, and some have questioned the rigidity of this type. However, when I looked at the elevation screw, it had rotated about 90 degrees from the position I had noted the day before. Lacking time to re-zero between stages, I just turned it to the place it was the day before. INSTANT ZERO. I smoked a steel challenge type stage with 4 to 8 inch plates at 18 yards. So what appears to be happening is that the screw is self-adjusting wile shooting. Is anyone else having this problem? Is there a way to correct it without gluing it in place? I do have a popple hole in the barrel, so it is possible that blast is pushing back on the lens, causing the screw movement. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Deja vu! A couple weeks ago I had the exact problem at Cowtown Classic. Started missing steel at around 15 yards. Thanks to the dusty soil I was able to see my shots. POI was 6" to the right. Aiming just off the plates at 9:00 o'clock got me through the match. After I got home I took the gun to the range and sighted it in. By the end of the practice session (approx 140 rds) it was shooting to the right again. The beveled screw that locked down the adjusting screw was loose. Close observation of the plastic mount indicates the hole for the beveled screw is enlarging and has a slight hump above it on the plastic C-More housing. When I tightened the beveled screw, the plastic housing cracked. Now I'm one of those folks that actually read the instructions that come with products. I've always been careful not to overtighten this screw but in time (I believe this C-More is over 4 years old) it will break. Once I got home, I checked several more C-Mores mounted on different guns. Two are cracked at the same point. Three others are fine and show no problems. I know at some point I will be sending some of these in for replacement bodies, but I'm contemplating what I can do to make sure the remaining C-Mores do not crack. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscjoe Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 They always crack. Lost track of how many I've had scopes re-bodied. I'm going rts2 next time. I think If was to stay with the same scope I would look or an aluminum bodied one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Other possibilities are - 2011 grip screws are loose (doesn't seem logical but it is a real problem if yours are loose) - bullets hitting comp One requires an Allen wrench, the other needs a very specialized comp reamer to fix it right, or a 3/8" drill bit to fix it wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermoto Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 You can put a very small drop of blue loctite on the screw to keep it from moving. Or you can get the aluminum body C-more. Eventually all my plastic cmore cracked, Instead of having them re-bodied back into plastic, I upgrade to AL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56hawk Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Or you can get the aluminum body C-more. Eventually all my plastic cmore cracked, Instead of having them re-bodied back into plastic, I upgrade to AL How does it handle with an extra ounce and a half on top of the gun? I've got a couple C-mores that need new bodies, but don't know if I would want to add that much weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermoto Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 As soon as the buzzer went off. I didn't notice the weight. If anything, it reduced flip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56hawk Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks, I might have to give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Does anyone have the current prices to install a new plastic or a new aluminum body? Since its a 4 year old C-More, it may just be time to get a new one. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipscjoe Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Plastic is 55.00. Didnt know al. Was an option. Is that only a slide ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) Anybody having this experience? I had my zero shift during a 3gun match at my local club about a month ago, drifting about 6" right at 25 yards. I used Kentucky windage to finish the match, then re-zeroed. At the 3GN Western Regional match, it was good the first three stages, then during the course of the fourth stage it drifted right again. I had some time to re-zero the next morning before finishing the match, and it was good to go. I took it out Saturday morning and it was shooting right again! I re-zeroed it, and made a mental note of the screw position. (I SHOULD NOTE HERE- 90 DEGREE MOUNT, SO ELEVATION IS WHAT IS MOVING). Sunday morning, Action Pistol match. First 2 stages, fine. Third stage required 2 reshoots due to prop malfunction. DURING the re-shoots, I notice that same shots on same targets are hitting further right progressively with each repetition, culminating in a no-shoot hit on the third run-through (the only one that counted, since the activator worked....finally). . Up to this point I was suspecting the optic mount, since it is attached to the mounting rail of my XDM, and some have questioned the rigidity of this type. However, when I looked at the elevation screw, it had rotated about 90 degrees from the position I had noted the day before. Lacking time to re-zero between stages, I just turned it to the place it was the day before. INSTANT ZERO. I smoked a steel challenge type stage with 4 to 8 inch plates at 18 yards. So what appears to be happening is that the screw is self-adjusting wile shooting. Is anyone else having this problem? Is there a way to correct it without gluing it in place? I do have a popple hole in the barrel, so it is possible that blast is pushing back on the lens, causing the screw movement. Thoughts? http://re-gun.com/2011/05/c-more-care-and-feeding-zeroing-and-adjustment/ They have other articles on the cmore on that site Edited June 4, 2014 by underlug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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