New to Reloading, and starting with .40

[Trekkie]

Hi -

I recently purchased my new press and am starting with reloading. I'm going to reload the .223 Rifle and .40 to start as that are the guns I own.

In my probably childish exuberance while I was awaiting the arrival and decided that maybe I wanted things to get here so I could start playing.

So I ordered some of these bullets: Xtreme RNFP HPCB 180 Grain (would link but can't, i'm too new)

And I have some Titegroup on the way. I'd read several places that it was a decent powder to go with. Of course I'm having 'second thoughts' but I think I'll be ok for basic target rounds I have a bunch of Winchester and Remington brass that I once fired myself in my gun.

I have a Lyman manual, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what I want to do. So I was hoping for some tips.

I used the Hodgdon tool for that and there are two load options listed. I've asked on another forum and based on the Berry data that should be a good point for Xtreme bullets.

I just wanted to see fi anyone had some suggestions. I'm still waiting on UPS to deliver my toys, but was hoping to understand where to star.

Thanks.

[Hi-Power Jack]

Welcome aboard

I'd start by opening up "Forums" right here on BE, and then open "Reloading",

and then ".40 caliber", and reading postings from the past.

You'll learn an incredible amount about reloading .40 caliber ammo -

different bullets, different powders, minor vs major, brass problems,

bullet setback problems, etc etc etc.

You'll find answers to questions that you don't even know about yet.

I'd suggest you start with mild (minor) loads and spend a few more

dollars on a chronograph - Very Important to know how fast those

bulllets are flying.

Good luck with your new hobby - glad you found some powder.

[camocarmen]

I second Jack's input.

I've been loading 30 for the past few months (9 and 45 before that). Be aware that 40 is a high pressure load so watch out for brittle brass. Only reload it 3 -4 times, esp Winchester and the off brands. I run 5.7 N320 + 165 BBI's and get 171ish PF. But those are moly's, which have less friction thus require less powder.

Hodgdon has a great online load data site. Best advice is to start with the least amount of powder recommended. Chrono. Step up by 0.1 grains (so 5.7 to 5.8) as needed. DO NOT exceed the max recommended amount of powder.

Crimp also is a factor in accuracy and velocity - too little and the cartridge may not feed, too much can cause the bullet to tumble or go so far as to strip the jacket off of the bullet.

OAL is very important as well. Use what your manual recommends. The same amount of powder in a shorter round = more pressure = higher velocity. Inverse is true for longer rounds. For my 2011, I load my 40's to 1.200, which is considered "long".

Have fun!

Carmen

Edited May 13, 2014 by camocarmen

[danman00]

I started in 40 cal a while back myself. I've never used TightGroup but I've used other Hodgden powders. I can't speak for all thier powders but I've found that thier starting loads for IMR brand powders are very weak. (Some not even enough to cycle the action of my stock Glocks). Trust your printed data over the websites is all I'm saying and Be sure to spend the money and get yourself a chronograph. (about $100 on Midway or Amazon). Just start low and work your way up. Have fun!

[Rob01]

Titegroup works very good in the .40. I use it for 180 and 200grn bullets. The 180s can easily make major PF and can be loaded down to powder puff loads as well.

[RPatton]

What gun will you shoot in 40 and what games do you intend to play i.e., USPSA, IDPA, 3gun, steel challenge, Glock matches, etc or just plinking.

What you plan to shoot will or should make a great deal of difference on how hot you will want to load it.

If you failed to order a bullet puller then go buy one. It is like the eraser on a pencil, you'll need it, unless you plan to never make a mistake.

Don't crimp straight wall pistol pistol cases any more that it takes to make them drop easily into a clean chamber. Crimping a pistol bullet does not hold the bullet in place unless you have bullets with a cannelure and 40s don't.

Pull a factory 40 bullet and look for indication that it was crimped. Pull one of yours made and compare the two.

Your ammo will be shot from the chamber not out of a case gauge so use your pistol barrel as a gauge.

Don't get excited with your new toys and resize all your 223 brass without checking your setup to ensure that you are not pushing the shoulder back too far. A Dillon case gauge is the best tool I have found for that. Pushing the shoulder back too far will lead to case separations.

Read some books. Reloading manuals cover a lot of common mistakes. You can learn a lot from other peoples mistakes.

RP

[Trekkie]

Yes. I have a bullet puller. Have several books. I've gotten the ABCs of reloading, and the lyman manual. Went ahead and got the dillon press DVD too. Followed its setup and test fit 10 .223 brass through it and put them through the sizing die. Fit flush surprisingly enough.

That's it so far, still reading and waiting on the chrono and the bullets to get here.

Edited May 14, 2014 by Trekkie

[Trekkie]

Oh right now, I'm just reloading to practice. One day I'd like to try three gun but I'm relatively new to shooting, it's something I've wanted to do for ages but finally started.

[RPatton]

"One day......" will come and be gone along with your eyesight and reflexes. Now that you have the toys, go play with 'em.

If you are ever going to do it, then do it now, because the longer you wait, the slower you get.

Loading 40 for 3gun is easy. Pick a load that will provide enough power to operate the gun reliably with a reduced power recoil spring(13#) and be accurate.