Smith 625 trigger feels differnt loaded vs unloaded

[pfcchambers]

I am the proud new owner of a Model of 1988 5-inch Smith 625-2. I bought the gun in the factory box and it appeared to be have been shot very little it at all. I have a good gunsmith I like to use back home in Utah. Before I ever even shot it I had him work it over for me and get it set up the way I wanted it. I had him remove the floating hand and put in the typical type, chamfer out my cylinders, do a trigger job, (light as possible to fire all primers not just federals) and jewel the trigger and newly added target hammer I requested. I know, I know the real competition guns have a bobbed hammer. I just like being able to single action occasionally. Right now, I am nowhere near good enough to worry about that so I have it the way I wanted it.

Now down to the question. The trigger feels great when the gun is unloaded. When I put in snap caps loaded into the moon clip, the trigger changes it feel. You can also feel it in cocking the hammer. Unloaded your nice typical Smith action at work. With the moon clip in, towards the end of cocking the hammer it almost pulls or feels like it is catching on something. I can repeat the issue. Unloaded great, loaded with snap caps not so great. I have a 686 and 617 done up pretty much the same way by the same gunsmith. I am just wondering if one of you much more knowledgeable than me knew what the problem might be.

I would just simply take the revolver back to the gunsmith but I since have gone active duty and I am now stationed in Texas. Any help or tips to look into would be appreciated.

[mcb]

Moonclip is bent or you have something on the snap caps dragging on the recoil face. What kind of snap caps? Could a polymer cushion in the snap cap be bulged out or a brass plunger on the snap cap peened up to rub the recoil face.

[Toolguy]

I would try it with empty brass. If it does the same with real brass, then maybe the brass in the gun is advancing the timing to where the hand gets stuck between the ratchet and the frame. On some guns it makes a difference whether you have it loaded or unloaded on the timing. The trigger job may have been done with it unloaded and never checked out with rounds in the chambers.

Edited April 30, 2014 by Toolguy

[Dogged]

A firing pin bushing left proud of the breech face could do it. Had one come from the factory like that, once the bushing was fixed, a headspace problem was created.

Edited April 30, 2014 by Dogged

[R1valdez]

A firing pin bushing left proud of the breech face could do it. Had one come from the factory like that, once the bushing was fixed, a headspace problem was created.

He's firing pin is on the hammer.

[Dogged]

Substitute proud hammer nose bushing for firing pin bushing.

[bountyhunter]

A firing pin bushing left proud of the breech face could do it. Had one come from the factory like that, once the bushing was fixed, a headspace problem was created.

And check the headspace with a full cylinder of fired brass with a feeler gauge ALL THE WAY AROUND THE BREECH FACE. Have seen several that had enough space at the top but narrowed down below.

[bountyhunter]

Substitute proud hammer nose bushing for firing pin bushing.

If I recall, the correct (minimum) spacing of clearance at that point with no brass on a standard SW revo is about .064" but you don't usually get dragging problems until it gets down to about .060. If the cylinder has been hacked for moon clips, obviously that changes the clearance spec. Edited April 30, 2014 by bountyhunter

[pfcchambers]

I really do appreciate all your responses. I will try out some of these tips and see what works. Thank you all very much. I will update as soon as I get a chance to mess with it, hopefully tomorrow. Thanks!