AR10 compensator

[WidowsSon683]

So my father in law just got an ar10 he's gonna use for hunting long range. The flash suppressor on it is junk. Any recommendations on a good one. His B-day is coming up in a few weeks.

[michael1778]

Will he be wearing any hearing protection while hunting? I think that might change up recommendations.

[WidowsSon683]

Yes. The man works in the energy industry. Hes big on safety.

[Stlhead]

Is there anyone that would hunt with an unsupressed rifle that does not use hearing protection? That sort of silliness would seem proof of a persons unsuitability to safely use firearms.

Any of the common breaks should do fine. JP, Titan, rolling thunder, seekins. If it is just for hunting my first choice would be a JP tank, but the difference is not that much, but there is a difference.

[co-exprs]

In 308, hunting brakes and competition brakes are different animals. For hunting, you want a brake with lots of down force to push the rifle down against the bipod. Sort of lock it in place so you can see the impact through your glass. Hunters don't throw fast pairs like 3 gunners do, so keeping the target in the scope is the most important thing. In 3 gun we throw fast pairs off hand. With the heavier BCG, too much down force is a bad thing and drives the muzzle down, resulting in a low followup shot. There are tons of good 30 cal brakes on the market for hunting applications.

For hunting, the Bastard brakes well regarded: https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/products-page/muzzlebrakes/little-bastard-brake/ Holland brakes are good too and they have several styles to choose from. http://www.hollandguns.com/ I've run the Ross Schuler brakes with some success (they are a knock off of the earlier Holland brakes and have a lot of down force). http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/

If you want to get a brake with more of a cross over for hunting and 3 gunning, then the choices get a bit more limited. A competition 308 brake is a bit of a balancing act in that you need it to remove as much rearward recoil as possible, both from the bullet acceleration and the BCG hitting it's rearward travel. This is to reduce the right side hop caused by body torque. You also need just the right amount of down force so the muzzle neither climbs nor dives for the follow up shot. 308 is venting a fair bit of gas and can be a bit punishing on the ears with a brake, so you need the brake to be as easy on the shooter as possible. Finally with so much more carbon to build up, you need the brake to stay fairly clean. With higher round counts from competition rifles you will get some carbon build up at the crown no matter what brake you use, but the brake internal surface areas should stay fairly clear of carbon build up. The best brake on the market today for balancing all of these attributes is the Dynamic Resistance 308 brake offered at Carbon Arms. http://www.carbonarms.us/AR-15-Uppers-and-Parts/Dynamic-Resistance-Muzzle-Brakes.html

If you'd like to see what I have been working on and will be presenting at HeMan Nats in early May... check you PM.

[Steve RA]

JP "Tank" comp !!!

[MarkCO]

I agree that the DR is a very good .308 brake. WADR, there are not a lot of people that have tried them. Mike has tried them all and actually shot the DR in prototype. Overall, it is very good and all features combined, you would be hard pressed to find one better.

I put the DR .308 comp on my .308 bolt gun, works great. I want the brake to perform the same, neutral, regardless of what I am shooting, so I don't want excessive downforce because I won't always be on a bi-pod.