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Reloading AAs


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There is a difference in the way the base wad is molded and the type of plastic used. AA's and the new HS were designed as the reloadable version and the rest are considered as throw away. Sort of like CCI with their brass case and Blazers.

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What do the Universals look like? Are these the ones with the plastic basewad that is rather straight walled? If I had a clue as to what the inside basewad looks like, I might have some data for them. Like Graywolf says though, they may be the ones that they intended people to throw away. I sometimes will load these shells with the intention of going to lost brass matches. Why give them my good AA's? :)

Vince

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The problem with most cheap hulls nowdays is the primer pocket. Olympia, Clay cartridge, Gamebore and many others seem to have the primer pocket rigged so they can't be reloaded. I can press the primer in their once-fired hulls with my thumb (all primers, even CCI).

I can't remember if the Win. Universal has loose primer pockets. I can tell you that any cheap Federal and Rem. multi or gun club hold primers snugly. The Remingtons crimp great and can be loaded several times. I also load the Federals more than once.

It is sometimes a pain to change crimp adjustments on your press to load cheap hulls, but I have found that most cheap hulls load great on my MEC sizemaster. Six-point crimps are cool too.

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The way around these loose primer pockets is to use the primers that are a bit oversized. The two that come to mind are Fiocchi 616's and Cheddite 209's. They are a bit larger than the Rem, Win, CCI, and Win primers being European in origin. The Fiocchi 615's may also be oversized but are meant for target loads (616's are for field and heavy field loads).

I use the Cheddite primers when I need a slightly larger primer or if I am loading Fiocchi hulls (or other european hulls that needs one). They are a few bucks per 1000 cheaper locally.

Vince

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