Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Titanium vs. stainless parts for a 1911 style guns


Recommended Posts

Sounds like a plan.

I run the SVI Triglide package with the additional titanium main spring cap and extended firing pin.

Titanium hammers...they're nice and light...but don't offer that much of a shortened lock time as to

take advantage....IMHO :devil:

Heres my STI Eagle 5.0

post-24914-0-88918600-1348281361_thumb.j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've have had a strut and hammer before. The strut pin holes will oval over time and eventually fail to give good ignition. My hammer had a steel pin in the cocking surface and decided to fall out one day. Went back to steel.

The Koenig lightened hammers are the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a friend who is getting me bullet proof parts from Wilson. I was think of a new titanium strut amd cap. Then I thought about the eilson bullet pfoof firing pin. I may change it. This is for a Springfield armory 1911 build I have been doing. I like the advice zny of youcan give. It does have a egw skeletal hammer. I like it alot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not a fan of titanium struts. Seems like they flex more than the standard steel part, and I don't see any real benefit in using titanium for that application. Mainspring cap probably isn't going to make any difference. I find it kinda funny when people claim they can tell a fraction of a second difference in lock time. Really? I have triggers that are nice crisp 1.5# 100% reliable with steel (Colt) struts. For hammer/sear/disconnect, I use SV and/or EGW parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Funny you mention the Chip McCormick Ti hammer as I was thinking of those when I read this post but figured not many would remember them.

The old Chip McCormicK Ti hammers do seem to have a faster "snap' to them.

They were kind of fickle as far as wear though, some batches would last a long time and others would get eaten up by the slide, disconnector, or lose their hook surface pretty quick. Using a good moly-di camshaft grease on the hooks helps and is what I have been using. I still have three, one in an open gun, one in a steel gun, and one in an old .45. I'm thinking of removing the Ti hammer from the .45 and maybe the open gun and keeping them as a back-ups for the steel gun where the fast lock time seems to make a difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...