Annealing brass for first time

[BullyDog]

I just got done testing a few .223 cases.

What do you think? Do they look right? I never let them get cherry red.

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[mlmiller1]

This is not a good answer but I've been interested in anneling so I thoight I would post. Did you use one of the chemicals with color temp indicator or just wing it?

[BullyDog]

I do not have the paint. I will pick up some this weekend.

I have read a lot, and watched several videos.

[jmorris]

You don't want any shade of "glow" or red. If you are using propane you don't even want the flame to change from blue to orange.

In this video you can see the flame change colors before the index. it is being cooked too long.

This video shows what you want. The flame doesn't change color, even annealing and cool enough to hold right out of the flame.

[Intel6]

I just got done using a Benchsource machine to anneal lots (over 1K) of small cases and some big ones also (17 Ackly Hornet/218 Mashburn Bee/6PPC/300 WM). Different cases will look different after annealing even though you did it correctly. I used the Templiac and the 17 AH cases really showed the anneal with that Lapua blue look while my 6PPC cases (both Norma & Sako brass) showed very little change even though I know I reached the right temprature.

Bottom line is you really need to use the tempilac to get it right.

Neal in AZ

Edited October 18, 2013 by Intel6

[deerassassin22]

I use Temp laq when I first started to anneal just a pain IMO. Run the brass around the torch for about 4 or 5 seconds is all you need while holding it in your hand. At no time should the brass get hot enough to burn your hand or make you think DAM thats hot. Then I would drop them into water.

Edited October 19, 2013 by deerassassin22

[BullyDog]

They say the neck should reach 650 degrees when it's at the right temp.

[amlevin]

Rather than screwing around with Tempilac I just use the heat crayon from the same company. A Tempilstik that melts at 750 degrees. Just touch the case on the shoulder area immediately after it leaves the flame. If it melts and smears it's just right. Start out with a slightly faster speed or lower flame and work up until the crayon JUST starts to melt. After you've set the speed and flame, just anneal. Don't bother checking each case.

As for dumping in water, all that does is give you a wet case. Brass does not "temper" or "anneal" by quenching. Just heat and time. Once the case is out of the flame then it cools rapidly enough to not damage the case head (area).

[BullyDog]

I bought the paint from weldingsupply.com for cheap and my setup is right on.

[deerassassin22]

Rather than screwing around with Tempilac I just use the heat crayon from the same company. A Tempilstik that melts at 750 degrees. Just touch the case on the shoulder area immediately after it leaves the flame. If it melts and smears it's just right. Start out with a slightly faster speed or lower flame and work up until the crayon JUST starts to melt. After you've set the speed and flame, just anneal. Don't bother checking each case.

As for dumping in water, all that does is give you a wet case. Brass does not "temper" or "anneal" by quenching. Just heat and time. Once the case is out of the flame then it cools rapidly enough to not damage the case head (area).

I drop them in water only because I sonic clean them