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trophy match tweaking


colbyjack

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What would you do to a new trophy match? I'm doing grips and fiber optic front sight. Probably can the ILS grip safety. But what would you tune or do to it? My frame to slide is really tight. Feels like on ball bearings. Thinking the barrel and frame polish job could be a little better. The trigger is crisp and no over travel. A touch heavy, is there anything a novice can do to lighten it up just a pound or 2 off the factory, without dumping a ton of money. I've heard of guys polishing parts and get a 3 pound trigger with stock parts. Is that true? If so what can into Polish to make better? Trying to get into the stack class but want to make the gun best I can. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -chris

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Springfield usually puts a really heavy mainspring in those guns. A lighter one will usually shave a bit off the the trigger pull. I don't remember if the key lock system they use on the mainspring housing (do they still use that) is compatible with a standard mainspring? Though I seem to remember that it was.

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To lighten up your trigger.

Springfield uses a TI firing pin and in order to ensure good strikes, they use a heavy mainspring, ~28lbs. Swap the firing pin for a steel one (Ed Brown #826) and and extra power firing pin spring. Then you can use a 19lb mainspring. You also have to swap the mainspring hsg internal parts since they are different for the ILS. I'd just buy a frame rebuild kit (Ed Brown #814-S) It comes with the reduced mainspring and all the other parts you need. Plus you have some spare pins. Once you change the mainspring hsg internals, the ILS no longer works. You can either use the ILS mainspring housing or swap it for a aftermarket of your choice. I initially left the stock ILS housing in for a couple months and never had a problem. I recently swapped if for a S&A. But that was just personal preference. I had no issues using the stock ILS housing with the non-ILS internals.

I would run the ILS housing until you decide what magwell you want to go with. Traditional like the S&A or a big funnel like Techwell or Dawson.

Other things I have done to my TM

Dawson Fiber Front Sight

Wilson One Piece Guide Rod (I hated having to use an allen key to remove the slide)

14 lb recoil spring (using a shok buff)

VZ Grips, Operator II w/ magwell profile & super scoop and ambi cuts

I use 8rd Wilson ETMs with 200gr SWC and have never had any issues.

Edited by TDH
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I had a local gunsmith set my SA trigger at 3 lb, and crisp it up by working on the sear hammer interface. He also optimized the travel both take-up and reset. All done for $70. Pretty good deal I thought.

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14 pound recoil spring. That will work with major loads then right? What is stock 18 or 20 pound? So I can use the stock mainspring housing by replacing the ILS parts. May do that, it has a SA style mag we on it from factory. Noe that part # for the replacements? Is that from end brown? Does brownells carry the ILS parts? I like the sound of lighting the hammer/trigger a bit...

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Tdh thanks for the info. I found it at brownells. It don't list the mainspring weight. Do I need to order the 19 pound one then to go with the kit?

And I'll ask before I do something wrong. I'll admit I'm not that familiar with the 1911. Do I just take apart the ILS and drop the other parts it? Is it that simple? Do I need a retaining pin, I was searching threads. And I read some use a mainspring retaining pin and some dont. Could someone explain that to me. I agree I'm going to remove the ILS but just want to know what is all involved before I order parts so I'm not short. Or can you walk me through the process? Thanks. I'd rather ask nd do it right than mess up my new gun. Thank you guys -chris

Edit.someone told me today at a match SA uses a different size firing pin. Is that correct? Or is the end brown one a drop in part? I don't know how to fit a firing pin if needed.

Edited by colbyjack
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Tdh thanks for the info. I found it at brownells. It don't list the mainspring weight. Do I need to order the 19 pound one then to go with the kit?

And I'll ask before I do something wrong. I'll admit I'm not that familiar with the 1911. Do I just take apart the ILS and drop the other parts it? Is it that simple? Do I need a retaining pin, I was searching threads. And I read some use a mainspring retaining pin and some dont. Could someone explain that to me. I agree I'm going to remove the ILS but just want to know what is all involved before I order parts so I'm not short. Or can you walk me through the process? Thanks. I'd rather ask nd do it right than mess up my new gun. Thank you guys -chris

Edit.someone told me today at a match SA uses a different size firing pin. Is that correct? Or is the end brown one a drop in part? I don't know how to fit a firing pin if needed.

You can use the one that comes with the kit (I believe it is a standard 23# mainspring). The Ed Brown kit comes with a mainspring cap retaining pin, slide it in from the back of the MSH. SA uses a 9mm/38 firing pin (smaller tip) on all their 1911's, so if you order a replacement get the 9mm/38 firing pin (I kept the factory firing pin with the Ed Brown kit - no problems so far ~ approximately 6,000 rounds later).

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I purchased a SA Trophy Match a number of years ago. It had very tight slide/frame fit but a very heavy trigger pull and that lock on the mainspring housing. I replaced the innards with a 3 lb kit from Frerking Gun Work and added a new mainspring housing. The gun has been both accurate and reliable. It's shame that at their price point they do not offer a better trigger pull. Recently I purchased a Dan Wesson PM-9 and it comes staright from the factory with a superb trigger in addition to all the other refinements and great fitting. I don't know what Dan Wesson currently offers in a 45ACP but mu old DW Pointman in 45ACP is every bit as good as the SA TM.

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