MoNsTeR Posted November 5, 2004 Share Posted November 5, 2004 Most of the credit for the images should go to Blender, http://www.blender3d.com . It actually took me longer to crop the image to a good size than to build the models. Patrick, what would be the equivalent numbers for .40? [Edit: link fixed] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted November 6, 2004 Share Posted November 6, 2004 There we have it - Patrick succinctly ends the discussion. be And Monster - that page wouldn't load for me. I'll try later. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Thanks for the link fix. I downloaded it - holy crap - looks like fun if I can ever figure out how to do anything... thanks, be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 the .40 figures would be on the order of .395" or less as your target ID after sizing but before belling (my sizer brings them down to .393" on average) and not over .397" on the belling (and my belling stem, polished, leaves them at .397") If I were loading 135s, I'd shorten the stem just for that bullet. Otherwise, I'd leave it long while using 180s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNsTeR Posted November 11, 2004 Share Posted November 11, 2004 Thanks Patrick! Brian, Blender is (in)famous for its inscrutable user interface It's sort of like calling your shots, hard to learn but the payoff can be huge. Fortunately there's a lot more freely-available documentation available now. Back In The Day before Blender was open-sourced, I bought one of the first run of official manuals, imported from Holland and signed by the original author! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jml Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 Not trying to get off topic but I need info. I am relatively new to reloading and am not sure how to measure crimp. I believe I have a wrong undrstanding a/c trying to use calipers to make the measurements as I assume...IT CAN"T EASILY BE DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (I feel much better now after venting). The reloading manuals I have don't address the issue (if nothing else-reloading manual table of contents/indexes suck). I need to to be enlightened. How is crimp measured??? I need a basic understanding - I don't want to get into the "just remove the bell", taper vs roll crimp and cannelure debate. Is there a simple explanation or an article I can be directed to???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 (edited) jml wrote: I need a basic understanding - I don't want to get into the "just remove the bell", taper vs roll crimp and cannelure debate. Sorry to give you what you don't want... "Just remove the bell" Try measuring the case after it has been resized. Then bell the case and seat a bullet. You are only trying to crimp the case back to the resised dimension. If you squeeze the case to much, you will loose accuracy. jml wrote: How is crimp measured?? I don't know how every one else measures the amount of crimp on a loaded round, but I use a digital caliper and it gives a reliable dimension. Try a Yahoo or Google search and you will get 20 pages on "bullet crimp". Edited November 12, 2004 by .40AET Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Sweeney Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 Use the narrow ends of a set of dial calipers. Use your thumb or fingertip to keep the blades from sliding around. Measure the very end of the brass itself. If juggling the catridge and calipers is a bit much, then you can gently hold the round in place by clamping the rim with a pair of vise grips, then use the dial calipers with both hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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