bountyhunter Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Look at the trigger where the pivot pin goes thru. It's cut out to allow the cylinder stop to drop into the recess. If the trigger moves moves sideways (usually towards the sideplate) the cylinder stop can hit the trigger instead of moving down into the recess.I have a 66 that does that when I try to pull the trigger left handed but works fine firing right handed due to the angle the trigger is being pulled coming back. That's why shims can prevent the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 In looking at the picture of your frame in the 2nd post it looks like your hammer stud has been repaired once, has the trigger stud also been repaired? I have seen some S&W trigger stud repairs that have a high boss around the stud that would force the trigger more toward the side plate and maybe cause your condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 In looking at the picture of your frame in the 2nd post it looks like your hammer stud has been repaired once, has the trigger stud also been repaired? I have seen some S&W trigger stud repairs that have a high boss around the stud that would force the trigger more toward the side plate and maybe cause your condition. Not that i'm aware of. when i first picked up this revolver I had polished out the stud boss a touch, it was extremely uneven and had some jagged edges. this is probably the shiney metal you see in question. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 That is what the repair studs usually look like and they stake them in place causing rough raised portions where the stake it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 That is what the repair studs usually look like and they stake them in place causing rough raised portions where the stake it. Hmmm, as far as I know I am the first / original owner of the firearm, bought brand new .... Unless this is something that of happened at the factory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 I encountered a similar problem with a customers gun. It was a pain to track down because it was very intermittent. There was a burr at the front of one the cylinder notches. When we release the trigger, the stop resets by moving forward and then to the rear where the trigger can pull it down again. On the revolver in question, the burr would hold the stop in its forward position and the trigger could not pull it down to disengage it. Take out your stop and try it for fit in each of your cylinder notches. Your notches look to be in good shape, but check each one for fit. -pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclectic361 Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 My Hopkins and Allen when I pull the hammer the cylinder turns but not enough I have to move it 1/8 to 1/4 to fully index? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 You will need to take that one to a gunsmith. There is no telling what all could be wrong with it over the internet. It will have to be looked at in person, on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclectic361 Posted November 19, 2023 Share Posted November 19, 2023 I'm sure I can sort it out, there are only a couple options that control the cylinder indexing But thanks for your input, I'll take it all the way down, just got it and all I've done is replace the Mainspring for the hammer so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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