Suicycle Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 My shiney new 34 is starting to choke and puke on me. I had my first malfunctions this weekend. What looked like a double feed. I racked the slide to clear and presented back to the target to see the same issue. Locked back and ripped out the mag cleared it and things were ok for a few more rounds. The next issue was at the end of that mag. A click instead of boom. Either a light strike, just put in a light striker spring to try out, or ammo issues. Win white box was used. After I got to the house I decided to ditch the light spring for reliability and put the stock back in. The striker in some areas where it was polished and other wear areas looks copper colored and the silver coating is actually flaking off. Has anyone else seen this before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Walker Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 For the potential light strike, I would say that is definitely a possibility. Winchester Value Box ammo uses hard primers. I'll have a light strike with one in every 250. To correct the problem, I switched to Federal Champion. I have yet to have a light strike with this ammo. It is my understanding that the Federal Champion uses soft primers. Also, before adding a lightened striker spring I had no issues with the Winchester Value Box ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Could you post a picture of the firing pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Light-strikes from using a reduced-power-firing-spring is just something that is going to be inevitable unless you move to sticking to stuff loaded with Federal primers exclusively. You can gain a measure of added reliability against potential light-strikes by using a lightened striker with the reduced-power spring, but again, if you're looking for 100% reliability it means that the reduced power striker springs must be used in tandem with Federal primers or of course just going back to a stock striker and striker-spring and dealing with a heavier trigger. FYI/FWIW, Federal Champion like guys get at Wallymart DOES NOT have easier to set off primers than WWB, the only thing "Federal-ish" about it is the name, I have it on pretty high authority that it's the same ammo that used to be sold as"Blazer Brass"... that means hard-ish CCI primers (and possible light strikes with reduced striker springs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Louis Walker Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 FYI/FWIW, Federal Champion like guys get at Wallymart DOES NOT have easier to set off primers than WWB, the only thing "Federal-ish" about it is the name, I have it on pretty high authority that it's the same ammo that used to be sold as"Blazer Brass"... that means hard-ish CCI primers (and possible light strikes with reduced striker springs). Interesting. Even if they aren't Federal primers I'll keep using them since they are 100% for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin-ster Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I continued to get light strikes with Federal Champion and a reduced power striker spring, even when the spring itself was brand new and the striker channel was spotless. Went with a lightened and extended striker from Glockworx and the problems went away. Started loading myself with true Federal SPPs, and 10k+ rounds later, no problems at all. I threw some mixed CCI and Winchester primed stuff into a mag the other day as a test and had 2 light strikes out of 15 rounds. As to the flaking of the striker, it may be natural wear. I've seen it on the locking block and several other (stock) striker crooks before. With use, it should wear smooth on the contactact surfaces, but you can GENTLY clean it up if it bothers you. The "possible double feed" needs more description to diagnose. A true type 2 double feed is often the result of a bad magazine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Well both malfunctions were kind of a suprise to me. The first was a full blown problem. Live round trying to go into a loaded chamber. Mag issue possibly? These are all stock springs in a 2 year old gun that I shoot 2 matches a month with at least. These 3 mags get a lot of use. Probably time to respring. But it all happened quick and I did a tap rack and realized it wasn't working and proceded to work on it while talking to it like a revolver. The second issue was on oh crap not again when it clicked. The wheels had already came off and I cleared and went on. Not sure if it was opperator error with thumb on slide release, not running extended, or ammo or reduced power spring because I didn't notice a round come out. I will try to get a pic of the striker tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin-ster Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 I'd go through all of my magazines and see if one stands out as problematic, first and foremost. In the AR platform anyway, the vast majority of "true" double feeds are because of warped mag lips. Not so much of a concern for Glock mags, but still very much possible. I've abused Gen 3 mags like crazy and they've never given me issues; not sure if yours are Gen 4, what followers you're running, etc-- but it's an easy problem to troubleshoot in this regard, if it's really prolific enough to happen over and over again. That said, what you describe (stripping a round into a loaded chamber) is not common of a "picture perfect" double feed, as often neither round makes it all the way into the chamber. Are you certain the first round wasn't fired and just failed to extract? That's not only a lot more common (in a Glock), it makes a lot more sense-- especially with a Gen 4. Did simply stripping the magazine allow the second round to drop out, and the slide went immediately into battery? Or did you have to work the slide a couple of times to yank the one out of the chamber? (Hard to remember, I know-- but when you drove a new mag home, did you lift the pistol and fire or chamber a new round?) I'd pull my extractor and make sure it was in good shape as well-- claw still present, no grooves cut, no excessive crud built up on/around/beneath it. In the process, you'll get a look at the plunger spring-- they can rust up fairly easily. My bet would be that it's more of an FTE than an FTF, based on what you describe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 I ended up locking the slide to the rear before I ripped out the mag while I was looking down on it. I remember trapping the mag with my arm and trying to let gravity get the round out of the chamber cause it was headed out, so it was a live round. I also remember saying out loud why am I keeping this mag? I think If I would have just stripped out the old mag it would have went into battery and I could have loaded and been on my way. I wish I had video of it. It could have been a good stage, and a good training aid to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.roberts Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 The one out of my Gen 3 35 looks like that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magsz Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 That copper colored stuff is residual anti seize left over from the factory. I still have it all over my gen 4 G17 despite nearing 1k rounds with it. It lasts quite a while unless you clean it out intentionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin c Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I remember being, ah, a little aggressive with my dremel while polishing my strikers. Under the plating the metal is copper colored. So it might be the antiseizing compound, or it might actually be the plating coming off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.roberts Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I remember being, ah, a little aggressive with my dremel while polishing my strikers. Under the plating the metal is copper colored. So it might be the antiseizing compound, or it might actually be the plating coming off. That's exactly how I discovered mine, I just didn't want to be the first to say it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin-ster Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 A lot of the tiny metal parts can't take much of a salt bath (Tenifer treatment) as the heat will warp them out of spec. Many of them are, after all, MiM anyway-- which is just fine when properly executed, but not find of extreme temperatures from what I've heard. The striker is included in that list, BTW. My guess would be in that particular spot, the treated layer was extra thin and the heat is getting to it. You're not flattening or piercing primers, are you? That'd accelerate it something fierce. Just for comfort sake, I'd double check (visually) my firing pin hole and make sure there's no burrs. I see that copper under layer most commonly on locking blocks, where the metal-on-metal contact is a bit rough at times and quite a bit of heat builds up as well. It's probably not the case, but worth a look. (You'd most likely be getting light strikes like crazy by now anyway...) As to the double feed-- sounds like a true Type 2, if it was indeed a hot round that dropped out. Maybe a fluke, maybe a bad magazine-- just something you'll have to play around with and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Not having any pierced primer issues. Gun has been good to go untill this pas weekend. I may shoot it saturday and see if it pukes again. I got crazy with the dremel at the rear of the striker where the .25 trigger job shows to polish and I just rubbed off a rough spot on the curved face of the striker that touches the primer with 400 grit and then 600 grit paper and literally bumped it with the dremel and white rouge. I buffed the living hell out of the rear of the striker though and it looks fine. It is flaking from the flats and the round face where the point of the striker protrudes. Nothing mechanical wrong with it. I cleaned out the channel when I took the pic and changed the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sin-ster Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Never seen simple flaking cause any problems, so you ought to be good to go. I've seen dremels wreck entire pistols, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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