zdog Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) I have a Colt Gunsite model 1911 that came with thin grips and a short trigger. It is the full sized government model. I have tried to remove the thin bushing in order to install standard grips with no luck. These bushing are in there till the end of time it looks like. They don't appear to be staked. I haven't tried heat yet in case they are loctited in. Has anyone ever removed the grip bushings from this model Colt and if so, how did you do it? Thanks, zdog Edited November 7, 2011 by zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpygravy Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 You need to use a bigger hammer... Seriously, unless they're staked or red loctited in there, more leverage is usually the key. The other way is to use an impact (un?)driver. It's one of those hand held thingies that you smack with a hammer (see, I told you) and it applies more torque that you could by hand. I've also had luck with stubborn fastners by throwing the workpiece in the freezer for half an hour or so. Most materials contract when cold and it might be just enough to bust that bushing off. Good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 If you use an impact driver you need to support the inside of the magwell so it doesn't collapse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 You need to use a bigger hammer... Seriously, unless they're staked or red loctited in there, more leverage is usually the key. The other way is to use an impact (un?)driver. It's one of those hand held thingies that you smack with a hammer (see, I told you) and it applies more torque that you could by hand. I've also had luck with stubborn fastners by throwing the workpiece in the freezer for half an hour or so. Most materials contract when cold and it might be just enough to bust that bushing off. Good luck... So do you know if this model Colt was manufactured with staking or loctiting? I have the Brownells grip bushing tool and was very careful and applied maximum force without distorting the bushings too much without luck. I will try the freezer trick to see if that helps although I would be inclined to try a little heat first. zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 If you use an impact driver you need to support the inside of the magwell so it doesn't collapse. Thanks for the idea but before I beat the crap out this nice 1911 I would like to hear from someone who has had success with this model 1911. zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 I personally don't recommend using an impact driver myself, too easy to mess something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpygravy Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 So do you know if this model Colt was manufactured with staking or loctiting? I have the Brownells grip bushing tool and was very careful and applied maximum force without distorting the bushings too much without luck. I will try the freezer trick to see if that helps although I would be inclined to try a little heat first. zdog Are you referring to the bushing driver tip w/ hex shank? If so, maybe you can make a cheater bar for added leverage. However, if they're really stuck, more/too much leverage will only bugger the bushings and I agree that smacking it would/should be the last resort. Try a few heat/cold cycles to see if that loosens them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Seriously, unless they're staked or red loctited in there, more leverage is usually the key. Good luck... Huh! If they are Loctited they aren't coming out in one piece without some heat. Leverage without heat will only succeed in the bushings being torn up and coming out in pieces and very possibly scarring the gun. If they are staked it should be easy to see the stake marks on the inside of the grip after removing the grip panels. If you do see the stake marks I would still use heat as the bushings might still have had Loctite put on them. A good pinpoint heat source such as the small butane torch sold at Harbor Freight will work very well. Right Eric? CYa, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) Seriously, unless they're staked or red loctited in there, more leverage is usually the key. Good luck... Huh! If they are Loctited they aren't coming out in one piece without some heat. Leverage without heat will only succeed in the bushings being torn up and coming out in pieces and very possibly scarring the gun. If they are staked it should be easy to see the stake marks on the inside of the grip after removing the grip panels. If you do see the stake marks I would still use heat as the bushings might still have had Loctite put on them. A good pinpoint heat source such as the small butane torch sold at Harbor Freight will work very well. Right Eric? CYa, Pat OK folks, thanks for all the replies and speculation. Like I said in my original post, has any one dealt with this model 1911 and what was the solution. Thanks, zdog Edited November 8, 2011 by zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lumpygravy Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Seriously, unless they're staked or red loctited in there, more leverage is usually the key. Good luck... Huh! If they are Loctited they aren't coming out in one piece without some heat. Leverage without heat will only succeed in the bushings being torn up and coming out in pieces and very possibly scarring the gun. If they are staked it should be easy to see the stake marks on the inside of the grip after removing the grip panels. If you do see the stake marks I would still use heat as the bushings might still have had Loctite put on them. A good pinpoint heat source such as the small butane torch sold at Harbor Freight will work very well. Right Eric? CYa, Pat hence the word "unless..." zdog - nope haven't worked on that particular model but I've buggered more than a few bushings back in the day. Maybe try the Gunsmithing sub fo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Mod note: moved to the gunsmith area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 you should get a thin grip bushing bit that fits hex drivers like wheeler, etc. drivers. Use a lil heat in case it has some red locktite. They sell em, cant remeber where I got mine, probably brownells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) you should get a thin grip bushing bit that fits hex drivers like wheeler, etc. drivers. Use a lil heat in case it has some red locktite. They sell em, cant remeber where I got mine, probably brownells. Thanks, As I mentioned in a previous post, I have one of those from Brownells and all I managed to do was enlarge the slots in the grip bushing...... Thanks zdog Edited November 8, 2011 by zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 you should get a thin grip bushing bit that fits hex drivers like wheeler, etc. drivers. Use a lil heat in case it has some red locktite. They sell em, cant remeber where I got mine, probably brownells. Thanks, As I mentioned in a previous post, I have one of those from Brownells and all I managed to do was enlarge the slots in the grip bushing...... Thanks zdog ah, sorry, you didnt specify that it was the one thats made specifically for the thin bushings, so I figured is might have been a standard bushing bit. In that case a screw extractor will work.; youll mess up the screw threads, but it sounds like theyre toast anyway, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 you should get a thin grip bushing bit that fits hex drivers like wheeler, etc. drivers. Use a lil heat in case it has some red locktite. They sell em, cant remeber where I got mine, probably brownells. Thanks, As I mentioned in a previous post, I have one of those from Brownells and all I managed to do was enlarge the slots in the grip bushing...... Thanks zdog ah, sorry, you didnt specify that it was the one thats made specifically for the thin bushings, so I figured is might have been a standard bushing bit. In that case a screw extractor will work.; youll mess up the screw threads, but it sounds like theyre toast anyway, Thanks, They are not toast yet. That is the purpose of seeking some help on this subject before proceeding. Thanks, zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike cyrwus Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Best of luck to you in your endeavor; I hope you save your $10 set of grip bushings from the scrap heap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdog Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Best of luck to you in your endeavor; I hope you save your $10 set of grip bushings from the scrap heap. No sense getting testy. I found that putting a little Kroil on during the last couple of days has done the trick. Even now that the bushings are no longer frozen the metal of the bushing is of such poor quality that the slots are peeling off. I have learned that using a little finesse is often better than going for the big hammer to start with. zdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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