Glock NZ Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Hi Guys I have been shooting my 625 for awhile now and its a a breeze to reload. When I recently got a 627-5 I am finding it quite a bit slower to reload. What can you do to help improve the reloading of the 627. I am using moon clips & 38 special cases. I have switched to a heavy crimp on the cases & polished the charge holes & ejector star. Is there anything else I can do? AT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Whyte Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I've been told to chamfer the charge holes.This should be the first step, followed by using the proper moon clip/brass combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lora Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) Many have switched to the using .38 short colt round in your 38/357 627, shorter case in theory loads faster with less wobble. Anyhow, I can't testify to that since I shoot Super. I don't think thats what you really want to hear. Practice, is the most likely solution. Edited September 28, 2011 by lora Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) Hi Guys I have been shooting my 625 for awhile now and its a a breeze to reload. When I recently got a 627-5 I am finding it quite a bit slower to reload. What can you do to help improve the reloading of the 627. I am using moon clips & 38 special cases. I have switched to a heavy crimp on the cases & polished the charge holes & ejector star. Is there anything else I can do? AT .38 long colt is also an option with Hearthco short colt moonclips Or, you can ask Bubber if he has any Speedstix he will give you :roflol: Edited September 28, 2011 by underlug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 The correct combination: Starline short colt brass, Hearthco moonclips sized for Starline, and plenty of chamfer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sensei Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 The correct combination: Starline short colt brass, Hearthco moonclips sized for Starline, and plenty of chamfer. Yes, this is the right "formula" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) As stated previously the use of shorter cases with stiffer moonclips will be the best you can do with the 8 shot 627. There is no substitute for gravity and those big holes in the cylinder of the 625. With 230 gr. RN bulets the moonclips disappear into the chambers of the 625. Edited September 28, 2011 by TonyT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Hi Guys I have been shooting my 625 for awhile now and its a a breeze to reload. When I recently got a 627-5 I am finding it quite a bit slower to reload. What can you do to help improve the reloading of the 627. I am using moon clips & 38 special cases. I have switched to a heavy crimp on the cases & polished the charge holes & ejector star. Is there anything else I can do? AT Which way do you reload, strong hand, weak hand? Where is it slower? Is it just the falling in of the rounds that is slower? Recording your reload sessions will help you see where the area is that you may want to focus on for the speed. Nothing is as easy to learn on as the 45's. But you can get there with some work. later rdd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glock NZ Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thanks All I am reloading strong hand, but I do practice weak hand reloads as well. When your forced to start on the RHS of the range its very easy to break the 180 loading while moving to the left and reloading strong hand. The 8 x 38's just seem more inclined to hang up, on the 45 you (sort of) throw them in the general direction of the cylinder and your good to go. What is the best projectile style? Round nosed? Plated or lead? I'll see if there are some short colt brass about, would I need a different shell plate and dies than 38/357? or can they be used, I'm using a dillon 650. Cheers AT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) The correct combination: Starline short colt brass, Hearthco moonclips sized for Starline, and plenty of chamfer. Yes, this is the right "formula" If your gun groups short colt. Not all do. It is the best formula if you can get it to work for you. Long colt will give you the benefit of better ejection than .38 special. If you have to wait on long colts being loaded into the gun, God Bless you. There is slightly more case room/less pressure in the long colt. Edited September 29, 2011 by underlug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cylindrically challenged Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have a lot of experience with reloading 627s. Chamfering the cylinder holes is an absolute necessity. I use Remington .38 Special Brass in Herthco clips because they aren't too tight or too loose. I load Berry's 158 Round Nose plated bullets to an overall length of 1.404" This is very short for a .38 Special. Then I use a taper crip to wrap the front edge of the brass case around the tapered curvature of the roundnose bullet. This way the lead edge of the brass is significantly smaller in diameter than the cylinder holes. Another advantage of the deep seat / taper crimp is that the 158 gr. Berry's bullet has no cannalure for crimping. At a longer overall length the bullets were tending to walk out of the cases due to recoil. With the deep seating and the taper crimp the bullets stay in place. At this length (1.404") the .38 Special round is only .15 hundreths of an inch longer than the typical .38 Super at 1.250". So there is no significant loading or unloading advantage to be gained with the shorter brass rounds like .38 Super or .38 Short Colt. When using .38 Special brass you also get the advantage of the heal of the bullet still being controlled by the brass case until the bullet enters the cylinder throat. This might not happen with .38 Short Colt where the bullet might actually be free flying with no support at all until it reaches the cylinder throat. This uncontrolled free flying bullet from the .38 Short Colt case is not good for accuracy. The bullet can turn and hit the throat crooked and be damaged before it ever reaches the barrel. Another trick with .38 Special I learned from the Cowboy action shooters is that they use a lot of Trailboss powder. I switched to Trailboss because of the dead air space and inconsistent ignition that I was getting from powders like Titegroup and Bullseye. Trailboss makes minor PF and you still have 100% load density. Loading .38s in this manner allows them to drop in fast and you still keep all of your accuracy. My ammo loaded to 1.404" will hold 1.65" at 25 yards for 5 consecutive 5 shot groups. Plenty accurate for ICORE or Steel Challenge or even USPSA if they ever get their act together and let the 627s in the game as minor power factor eight shooters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underlug Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have a lot of experience with reloading 627s. Chamfering the cylinder holes is an absolute necessity. I use Remington .38 Special Brass in Herthco clips because they aren't too tight or too loose. I load Berry's 158 Round Nose plated bullets to an overall length of 1.404" This is very short for a .38 Special. Then I use a taper crip to wrap the front edge of the brass case around the tapered curvature of the roundnose bullet. This way the lead edge of the brass is significantly smaller in diameter than the cylinder holes. Another advantage of the deep seat / taper crimp is that the 158 gr. Berry's bullet has no cannalure for crimping. At a longer overall length the bullets were tending to walk out of the cases due to recoil. With the deep seating and the taper crimp the bullets stay in place. At this length (1.404") the .38 Special round is only .15 hundreths of an inch longer than the typical .38 Super at 1.250". So there is no significant loading or unloading advantage to be gained with the shorter brass rounds like .38 Super or .38 Short Colt. When using .38 Special brass you also get the advantage of the heal of the bullet still being controlled by the brass case until the bullet enters the cylinder throat. This might not happen with .38 Short Colt where the bullet might actually be free flying with no support at all until it reaches the cylinder throat. This uncontrolled free flying bullet from the .38 Short Colt case is not good for accuracy. The bullet can turn and hit the throat crooked and be damaged before it ever reaches the barrel. Another trick with .38 Special I learned from the Cowboy action shooters is that they use a lot of Trailboss powder. I switched to Trailboss because of the dead air space and inconsistent ignition that I was getting from powders like Titegroup and Bullseye. Trailboss makes minor PF and you still have 100% load density. Loading .38s in this manner allows them to drop in fast and you still keep all of your accuracy. My ammo loaded to 1.404" will hold 1.65" at 25 yards for 5 consecutive 5 shot groups. Plenty accurate for ICORE or Steel Challenge or even USPSA if they ever get their act together and let the 627s in the game as minor power factor eight shooters. Great post with great information. I do think the shorter cases let you cheat more/give a cushion re ejection. There is less chance they will hang up coming out as you try to carve the tenths off of your reload. That is their principle advantage and it should be factored in when you make your choice of cartridge. Benefit and cost. No free lunch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glock NZ Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 Thanks guys Much info to work with, I'll let you know how I get one. AT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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