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picture - trigger reset leg


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AS you can see this is a picture of the sear & housing that came out of my Gold 38 supercomp. And a picture of a new sear. They are both positioned so everyone can see the trigger reset leg. The new one is positioned so a comparison can be made of the difference in the angles of the leg when installed. And yes a gunsmith did alter the angle of the one in the sear housing. I have been having problems with the trigger not reseting. I have adjusted both trigger adjustments per Hennings website and I believe they are correct. Thank you for any comments. Texarkana


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One thing I do to my sears is round off the bottom front edge (like the one in the cage) to help with resetting. If you back out your pre-travel enough, ANY sear should reset unless there is something keeping the trigger bar from coming up.

Please describe your problem in a little more detail.

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Failure to reset is usually due to the trigger pretravel set screw (the one in the top of the trigger just below the trigger spring) being set too tight. The best way to setup the pretravel is to pull the trigger all the way back, rack the gun, then slowly move the trigger forward until it resets. Then keep moving forward until the trigger bottoms out against the pretravel set screw. You DO NOT want the trigger to reset right as the trigger bottoms out on the pretravel screw. You always want a little bit of forward trigger movement past the reset point. If you setup the pretravel set screw where it bottoms out right at the reset point it will feel/function perfectly on the bench but you will get failure to reset issues when you shoot. The reason why this happens is because the sear cage squirms around inside the frame as you shoot and can move forward a little bit making a situation where you don't have enough forward trigger travel to reset the trigger.

When I setup the pretravel on my trigger I will use the very bottom of the trigger as a measuring point against the trigger guard. I will pull the trigger, rack the slide, then slowly release the trigger until it resets then use a marker to put a mark on the trigger guard so I know where the reset point is. Then I will make another mark 2mm ahead of the reset mark and then tune the pretravel set screw so that the trigger is resting at the 2mm forward mark. Doing this gives it enough fudge factor to deal with the sear cage squirming around when you shoot and still give it reliable resetting without excessive trigger travel.

The other thing I want to warn you about is that the Sear is not a "Drop In" part. It takes precise tuning to ensure that it functions correctly to not only fire the gun but to ensure that the safety works properly. It is not hard to screw up the cuts on the sear and end up with a full auto death machine or accidentally disable the safety function. Replacing the sear should be done by a competent and experienced gunsmith to ensure that the gun fires properly as well as keeping the safety functional.

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