"?'s" Open gun options and are they accurate

[50cal]

Well I was so fortunate with my last inquiry I'm back with 2 other questions.

I've decided to go with Brazos STI Trubor Comp. I will take a piece of advice and go with the .38 supercomp using an Aftec extractor.

1) below are some options I am curious about. Are any of these worthwhile?

Trigger (Short or Gunsmith, black)

C-More "click adjustable" Red Dot Sight

Drilled and Tapped Mag Release with Oversize Button

Stainless Mag Well

S-1 or T-2

Slide lightening

RecoilMaster

Cyclone Mag Button

Ultragrip

Big Mouth Magwell

2) Are Race guns really accurate? I know they perform, but how about pure accuracy from a rest. My P220 Sport is a tack driver. Rock River and Les Baer (perhaps others) have 1 1/2 in. garantees at 50yds. I have not seen any claims or info regarding accuracy performance of a race gun. What can be expected??

Hope you don't mind the questions, the responses are truly appreciated

Mike

[warpspeed]

50 cal,

I commend you on your choice of rimmless super & extractor - good choices.

So many of the options you have listed are personal preference things.

I like a short trigger. I have short fingers. What can I say

My open gun has a drilled & tapped mag release but I took the button off - did not like it.

My magwell is aluminium - Smoking Hole Pistol Design. Most with big hands don't like it. I have small hands

As for accuracy, I'm sure that Bob will deliver a gun that will shoot well within the dot's circumference. A 7 moa dot will cover 3.5" at 50 yds.

To quote Tom Petty - "the waiting's the hardest part"

[mpolans]

1. Trigger

This is personal preference. I have short fingers, so I prefer a short trigger. Others have long fingers and prefer long ones.

2. C-More

This is just a type of red dot sight. It is one of the brands of tubeless red dots. Instead of having a conventional scope tube, you just have a dot reflected off a single pane of glass. This makes the gun lighter and gives the effect of having a very wide field of view. Some people like traditional tube red dot sights better because it is easier to find the dot when you draw if your draw isn't consistent (or just have a one time bad draw). Some people have had difficulties sighting them in.

3. Oversized mag release button.

This helps allow a right handed person to try to push the magazine button with their right thumb without shifting their grip (or shifting as little as possible), in an effort to speed up mag changes. A lefty should just hit a normal sized button with their left index or middle finger.

4. Stainless mag well

Bigger mag wells make for an enlarged hole to insert a magazine in.

5. S-1 or T-2

I don't know what this is???

6. Slide lightening

This is done in an effort to get the gun to cycle faster and reduce the feeling of mass cycling back and forth. Sometimes, if this isn't done correctly, you can end up with a slide that is weak and will have tendency to loosen or crack over time.

7. Recoil Master

Not to familiar with these, but I believe it's some sort of buffer system built into the recoil spring guide rod in an effort to reduce recoil and/or battering of the frame by the force of the slide coming back.

8. Cyclone mag button

A brand/model of oversize mag button.

9. Ultragrip

??? Sounds like some proprietary method of roughening the composite part of an STI/SVI grip. Many people do this by stippling the plastic grip with a soldering iron. Some combine this technique with adding sandpaper grit to the surface.

10. Big Mouth magwell

a brand/model of mag well.

Racegun accuracy:

It depends on how accurately they are built. If a gun is put together in a really sloppy manner, they can be horribly inaccurate. If a gun is put together correctly it can be incredibly accurate. Raceguns are not inherently inaccurate.

[50cal]

So, pretty straight forward on the options... well thats a good thing for me

Andrew B, one of your members recommended the supercomp round and extractor. - Thanks Andrew.

Interesting about accuracy... I guess these gun are purpose built. Tack driving accuracy is probably wasted for a competition gun of this type - is that correct?

Thanks again

Mike

[Loves2Shoot]

Nope, you can't shoot as accurate as my open gun can and that's not saying anything about your skill. I have one fit by a guy name Fred Craig Lucky me. As far as super or super comp, get what the guys in your area shoot, it makes sorting the brass easier, I've shoot so many .38 supers that I've long lost count, and never had any problem. I wouldn't go with a titanium comp, as they wear out faster unless you have cash to burn, then I might, I like the KISS theory. Unless you have small hands, the standard mag button works fine. Get a slide racker for sure if you have an oversized button. I like the click adjustable C-more. I would spend the extra $ and get a SV Scott grip, love them, way better than stippling or roupe grips, you never need to worry about slipping, only getting the correct grip . Trigger, SV with inserts, not that it really matters. with an open gun I would use a light mag well (Aluminum Dawson's Ice is nice), not stainless. I have had good success with the Recoilmaster in Limited, but I didn't like it in my open gun, so I would try a stock one first and borrow a recoilmaster later.

[warpspeed]

Forgot about the C-more thing

I like a tube scope. You will find that the top shooters use both:

Todd Jarrett uses a C-More , Rob Leatham uses a tube

Mike Voigt uses a C-more, Eric G uses a tube

Matt Burkett uses a C-More, Doug K uses a tube

IMHO, I do not think one is better than the other - just a different way to skin a cat

[DogmaDog]

My understanding is that open guns often are extremely accurate. 1" at 50 yards is doable. One accuracy problem they do have is the offset of the scope from the bore is a lot farther than the offset of iron sights from the bore, so if your gun is zeroed at 50 yards, you'll hit an inch and a half low (or so) for very close up shots.

I'm not sure how important this is in practice, though.

DD

[Andrew B]

First comment is that you are turning a production gun into a custom gun and want to make changes before you shoot it as is. Since you will definately want the trigger done, have Bob lighten the trigger, go with the Aftec/supoercomp and leave the rest alone.

1) Trigger (Short or Gunsmith, black)

Depends on hand size - comes with most popular - long curved

2) C-More "click adjustable" Red Dot Sight

If the question is to click or not to click, it doesn't really make much difference. Easier to return to a certian switch position with the click. I have both and don't think the click is worth paying more for.

3) Drilled and Tapped Mag Release with Oversize Button

Personal preference - Leave it alone for now.

4) Stainless Mag Well

Makes the gun heavier - I vote no

5) S-1 or T-2

Different types of comps - use what comes standard on the gun - Ask Bob Londrigan about it.

6) RecoilMaster

Personal preference - lets you shoot minor to major loads without changing springs - Most of the open guys I shoot with, including me, have gone to them.

7) Cyclone Mag Button

Personal preference - Leave it alone for now.

8) Ultragrip

I have it on my Brazos guns and like it a lot. The stock grip also works fine.

9) Big Mouth Magwell

The competitor comes with a STI magwell. You can change it later if you feel the need .

2) Are Race guns really accurate? I know they perform, but how about pure accuracy from a rest. My P220 Sport is a tack driver. Rock River and Les Baer (perhaps others) have 1 1/2 in. garantees at 50yds. I have not seen any claims or info regarding accuracy performance of a race gun. What can be expected??

An open race gun should be extremely accurate. I also own a P220 sport, and you can expect no less accuracy from your open gun.

[mpolans]

<snip>

Interesting about accuracy... I guess these gun are purpose built. Tack driving accuracy is probably wasted for a competition gun of this type - is that correct?

Thanks again

Mike

This is only correct if you enjoy losing.

Believe it or not, there are occasionally targets surrounded by no-shoots or hard cover that require accurate shots. Even in stages with a greater emphasis on speed, when you're pushing to shoot as fast as you can, an accurate gun helps keep a shot aimed at the left edge of an A-zone from becoming a C.

It really comes down to how much you want to miss by.

[Flexmoney]

The accuacy in a race gun is acheived through the same variables as a single-stack with a 1.5 claim...good parts and good fitting. Most all of the smiths with a name for building race (Open) guns will be more than well versed in in parts selection and fitting.